Defender HELP - Can't disable immobiliser after battery died, key fobs wont work

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
M

munday1609

New Member
Posts
4
Location
Inverness
Hello everyone, first post here though I regularly browse the forums, hoping someone can help me as I'm absolutely stumped.

I must have left my ignition on overnight for roughly two nights, went to start her today and nothing whatsoever. The vehicle is a 13' Defender 90, I have noticed the immobiliser is still armed and I'm unable to turn it off due the key fobs no longer working.

So the car is stationary, I can't start it, I've disconnected the battery for half an hour hoping to reset the alarm/immobiliser but once reconnected, on comes the immobiliser. Im unsure why the key fobs no longer work (I have two) but i've also tried to remove the battery from them, leave it for a minute or two, insert the batteries and again, nothing whatsoever.

I can open the car with the key, I've tried to open/lock several times (the central locking works).. but every attempt, I'm left with nothing - the immobiliser remains on and I can't start the thing for the life of me. (also tried pressing the lock button 4 times to re-sync the fobs... nothing!)

I've checked the handbook and I can see that I might need an EKA code which for some reason I can't find in my folder that came with the car. I tried using an online service to track down the EKA (radiocodes.co.uk) but they advise there is no EKA code registered.. so I'm at a loss.

Anyone experienced this before? Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks all
James
 
You don't mention fully charging up the flat battery......you did that first right...??
The chance of the fobs both batteries running down at the same time seems less than nil - and taking out those batteries to re-set while the car battery and security are dead wouldn't achieve anything I'd guess.....

Cheers, A
 
Hey pal, thanks for the reply. I connected it up to my Disco 4 to give the battery some power, certainly haven't charged it fully but enough to crank her over. She wants to kick in to life but its the damn immobiliser that is the problem and my inability to switch it off. Key fobs still not working!
 
I'd ask a mod to move your post to the Defender forum where the most people with Defender skills/knowledge will see it.
Sounds like the management system has forgotten those keyfobs and their codes. Does the Defender use an EKA code I wonder?
 
Ok if u can crank, the engine isn't immobilise, continuously pressing the fobs buttons can deplete a fob battery very quickly, anyway start by installing a new battery in the fob and charging the battery till its fully charged that will eliminate those items from your issue.
Synchronising the fob procedure is first unlock and the press the lock button four times, or what ever is stated in your owners handbook.
The access code can be obtained from a main LR dealer just take with u proof of ownership.

If the engine cranks but the immobiliser LED is still illuminated than u do have a problem :(
 
As others have said if the engine turns over the immobiliser is not at fault. You will need to remove the car battery and charge it but at 5 years old it might need replacing. To remove it you MUST follow the disconnect procedure - slacken the negative lead but do not remove yet. Turn ignition key to on (lights up the dash etc but do not turn fully to turn the engine over), turn ignition off and disconnect battery within 15 seconds. Replace the batteries in your key fobs unless they are recent. After reconnecting the car battery you need to resynchronise the fobs; from outside the car press the fob lock button at least 4 times (sometimes takes more than 4) until the car doors lock. Unlock, car should start. Unless your connection to the disco has caused some malfunction???
 
Hi Chaps, appreciate the replies. The engine cranks for 2 seconds and then dies, I've noticed this previously when the immobiliser is armed, the car refuses to actually fire up and "run".

I managed to get my EKA from the dealers, sat in the drivers seat and followed procedure in the handbook (turn key to II and then back to 0 while opening and closing the door etc to correlate with my EKA). Nothing! I noticed it said in the handbook that the alarm will sound but it never did, it doesn't seem as though the alarm is engaged at all, just the immobiliser.

I have tried almost everything except charging the battery further and replacing the key fob batteries. At the moment I have the battery hooked up to the Disco (removed it from the Defender first) to see if it needs a little more juice (Which I doubt somehow but you never know). If all else fails, I'll head into town tomorrow to get another battery and two new key fob batteries.

FYI, when sitting in the drivers seat, the red flashing light on the dash flashes intermittently as if the immobiliser was active (every 4 seconds or so). I just can't seem to deactivate it, I also tried to resync the fobs outside of the car by pressing the LOCK button 4 times (probably closer to 20) but it's non responsive. Wondering if the batteries would have died in the fobs while somehow searching for the receiver while the car had "run out of battery" as such... Mad idea but plausible I suppose.

In fact i'll head down to the garage now to pick up some new batteries for the fobs.. I hoped the EKA would have worked but i'm either doing it incorrectly, or it's just not working! Sigh

Thanks for your replies chaps
Jimbo
 
You won't be able to deactivate the immobiliser unless u have a functioning fob or u successfully enter the access code, plus and although I don't see this being an issue at the moment, your vehicles security system will obviously have to be functional i.e. Fault free..
 
Okay some good and bad news, hoping this can actually help someone if stuck in the same situation as I.

So I changed the batteries in both fobs for brand spanking new ones, didn't do a thing, fobs still won't respond - so that's that ticked off.

Good news: I managed to start the car and keep it going. How? I left the ignition turned to point II when reconnecting the battery, for some unknown reason this bypassed the immobiliser and I was able to start it. This means I am now able to drive from A to B..

The bad news: I noticed the red immobiliser/alarm light stayed on when the vehicle was running, I had a suspicion that when I turned the car off, the immobiliser would reactivate as normal and leave me stranded (considering the fobs don't work either).. and as soon as I turned it off and removed the key, bingo - back to square one.

So if you're ever stuck, disconnect the battery leaving the ignition at point II (on) give it ten to twenty mins, reconnect the battery (making sure the ignition is on) and you should be able to start it straight away - means you might not have to pay a recovery bill.

The downside is, back to square one again....
 
Hi mate I have exact same problem. I left the car for a few months without starting and have the same symptoms as you. I have a 2.2 2013 110 CSW. I fear that i may have to buy a new ECU immobiliser and fobs?? How did you fix it??
Thanks in advance any info will help me.
Shain
 
Cyprus Defender said:
I fear that i may have to buy a new ECU immobiliser and fobs??
Click to expand...
Highly unlikely. But leaving the car for a few months will have flattened the battery. Recharge (or more likely replace) the battery, make SURE to follow the battery disconnect procedure (post 7 in this thread) and resynchronise the fobs. You might need to do the battery disconnect procedure again after fitting a new or recharged battery as letting the battery go flat may have resulted in a loss of data. When it restarts the engine management light might come on. After a few miles and a restart it will go out (it comes on while the engine management system re-learns the engine characteristics).
 
I tried what you suggested but nothing.... put a new battery on replaced the fob battery (2 fobs) turned the key to the correct position then to off..... then quick disconnect (alarm blaring) and reconnect but only a quick start for a second and then cut out.... immobiliser red light staying illuminated all the while... immobiliser isn't showing on the diagnostic tool either???
 
Thats got me stumped then. Can only suggest checking the fuses in the main and secondary fuse boxes - those for the ECU/PCM, and alarm system. If you don't have the owners handbook I can list the fuse numbers. And possibly check the batteries in the fobs are the right way round ;).
 
Found this info which might resolve your problem.
From the Haynes manual regarding fob battery replacement;
Warning: Do not remove the battery until you are ready to install a new one. The engine will immobilise 5 minutes after the ignition key is removed from the switch (or 30 seconds after the engine has been switched off and the drivers door opened). If the battery renewal procedure is not completed in this time, the emergency key access code will have to be entered (refer to your owners handbook or dealer/specialist) before the handset can be resynchronised.
Let me know if you don't have an owners handbook, for the EKA procedure.

Fob battery replacement procedure (from the workshop manual) attached.
 

Attachments

  • Defender MY12 Workshop Manual (dragged).pdf
    52.3 KB · Views: 1,592
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Keyless entry imobilliser issue
Replies
1
Views
220
Fludey
F
F
110 key / immobiliser issue help
Replies
3
Views
555
Fistofsteel
F
F
Disco 1 Immobiliser issues
Replies
11
Views
1K
discool
discool
A
Need someone with a nanocom
Replies
5
Views
801
marjon
marjon
L
Disco forgetting key/immobiliser
Replies
7
Views
368
R-Two-D2
R
Back
Top