Defender Buying guide.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
neilly

neilly

Well-Known Member
Posts
20,000
Location
Oxfordshireness
OK,

So having noticed a few questions in the last few months.

What would you say would be good questions for a prospective 90/110/130/ Fender purchaser?

I have done similar for the D2, perhaps a simple list for the above would be useful.

EDIT: Added file ver 2 to this first post - But please read on the next few pages for great nightmare photos and other interesting comments.

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • Defender check points Ver 2.pdf
    732.3 KB · Views: 110
Last edited:
Bulkhead - check the areas up by the windscreen
Bulkhead - check the areas by the door hinges.
Bulkhead.- check footwells, interior and exterior.
Bulkhead - Check around the the exterior air vents.
 
neilly said:
Bulkhead - check the areas up by the windscreen
Bulkhead - check the areas by the door hinges.
Bulkhead.- check footwells, interior and exterior.
Bulkhead - Check around the the exterior air vents.
Click to expand...

A magnet is a good idea, look for filler at the top corners by the wind screen mounts. Pull away all trim, carpets, everything. The problem is they rot from the inside out, have you got 2mm of steel or 0.5mm of steel? That's the problem.
 
Body panels - check body cappings for rust on the outside and aluminium oxide on the inside
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion at rear cross-member fixings.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion at front of tub fixings and seat belt fixings.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion on seat box ends.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion on door posts.
 
Al2O3 said:
Body panels - check body cappings for rust on the outside and aluminium oxide on the inside
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion at rear cross-member fixings.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion at front of tub fixings and seat belt fixings.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion on seat box ends.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion on door posts.
Click to expand...

Darn, you forgot the photos of the areas affected..LOL.

Cheers
 
Al2O3 said:
Body panels - check body cappings for rust on the outside and aluminium oxide on the inside
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion at rear cross-member fixings.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion at front of tub fixings and seat belt fixings.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion on seat box ends.
Body panels - check for aluminium corrosion on door posts.
Click to expand...

Here is some rot on a tub, 1985 90, repairable but not easy. These are all mounting points, body mounting points and seatbelt mounting points, the seatbelts mount to brackets directly fixed to the chassis but the tub is sandwiched in between.

mmmuttt 089.jpg
mmmuttt 096.jpg
mmmuttt 102.jpg
doors 017.jpg
mmmuttt 128.jpg
 
Seatbox rot and seatbelt mounting point.
IMG_0508.JPG
IMG_0529.JPG


IMG_0508.JPG
IMG_0529.JPG


This bulkhead at first glance may look like its just got surface rust, I scrapped this, it was rotten.

0.21.JPG
 
1999+
Take some diagnostic kit if a Nanocom etc.. check for any fault codes
Remove the acoustic cover to check underneath
- TD5s check the fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking, left at the rear of the top of the engine.
If it is leaking, depending on how long could mean the starter is on its way out
- TD5s check the rocker cover isnt leaking oil, not the worst thing as easy to change still worth checking
- Check for oil in the red plug at the ECU, under the drivers seat

Doors - They rot out and are expensive to repair or replace. Ideally pull the door cards off but not everyone will be happy about that.
- Check the bottoms
- Around the hinges
- Around the locks on second row doors
- Around the small rectangular windows on a 110

Fuel filter housing - Corrodes badly causes poor starting at the least. Not exactly super cheap to replace

Steering damper - They rot out but cheap to replace

Steering box leaks - Id say hold it on full lock either side while test driving then check when you get back

Wheel bearings/Swivel Bearings - Rock the wheels back and forth check for play

110s -
Middle row seat mounts - Mine where almost totally rotten. Pull the carpet out and check, though some may be glued down so look for any white crystals around the mounts on the seatbox.

Same for seat belt mounts

Second Row Crossmember - In the rear wheel arch under the seats. Prime place for rot
 
Last edited:
That's very impressive! :)
Wish I'd put a bit more thought in to it now! Didn't realise contributions were going to be put in to such a fancy document.
Is it too late to mention a few other things? Brake disc condition, noises on test drive (potential worn UJ's, a frame joint etc), steering vagueness.
 
Al2O3 said:
That's very impressive! :)
Wish I'd put a bit more thought in to it now! Didn't realise contributions were going to be put in to such a fancy document.
Is it too late to mention a few other things? Brake disc condition, noises on test drive (potential worn UJ's, a frame joint etc), steering vagueness.
Click to expand...

Have away with it, easy enough to add, change etc.

The D2 doc has been changed 7 times iirc. and lives in the Discovery section as a sticky.


Cheers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

styleruk
2.25 petrol rough idle
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
2K
styleruk
styleruk
ryan_1993
300 tdi Defender 90 Rear Diff Pinion Seal Replaced now leaking horrifically
Replies
7
Views
1K
ryan_1993
ryan_1993
Bezdonian
1993 200Tdi Defender 110 Sw for Sale (SOLD)
2 3
Replies
43
Views
8K
lynall
L
MollyNomad
Freelander 1 Sunroof Mechanisms and Repair Guide to replacing Glass and Mechanisms
Replies
0
Views
1K
MollyNomad
MollyNomad
L
Learning to fix Land Rovers like a pro - career advice wanted
Replies
10
Views
2K
kevstar
kevstar
Back
Top