My 2004 110 DC does everything. 50 mile daily commute, dump runs, dog transporter in the forest, motorway trips to visit the kids, the lot. But I have to say the brakes are awful. Really wooden. I checked the servo is working. I freed up the pistons in the rear but it was all so corroded i think they've siezed again. So I'm looking to replace discs and calipers all round. Do I go stock or is there a decent upgrade?
Daily 110 needs a brake job. Stock or upgrade?
- Thread starter Mudstyler
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Don’t replace the callipers, strip and rebuild them with stainless pistons. Other than that, standard is as good as a defender needs, in my opinion.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,306
- Location
- South London/North Kent
With the time and cost spent its quicker and easier just to replace the calipers with quality new ones. Afaik Paddocks have them cheapest.
Ive got slotted EBC discs on the front which have been a wonderful upgrade. Luke at LOF now do uprated discs as well.
Combined with Brembo pads front and rear with DOT5.1 fluid it certainly stops far better than standard.
Thats new (sub 2 year old) AP calipers all round + Goodridge braided lines and soon Pioneer 4x4 hardline replacment for the rear (thats more to make the rear end easier to work on)
Ive got slotted EBC discs on the front which have been a wonderful upgrade. Luke at LOF now do uprated discs as well.
Combined with Brembo pads front and rear with DOT5.1 fluid it certainly stops far better than standard.
Thats new (sub 2 year old) AP calipers all round + Goodridge braided lines and soon Pioneer 4x4 hardline replacment for the rear (thats more to make the rear end easier to work on)
Cheapest? You are working on brakes, cheapest isnt where you want to be, I got some Bearmach calipers a while back, the bolts holding the two half's together were not even hand tight, they were absolute rubbish and dangerous. Do your self a favour, fit decent parts if you want decent brakes.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,306
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Re read. Cheapest yet good quality. As in AP/Genuine paddocks have them for the lowest price.
+1 - Stainless pistons every time - anything else is waste of time and money.
If you're too lazy to refurb your own calipers
, then fine - your call - But - you can buy new calipers and throw their ferrous pistons away, and fit stainless pistons to said new calipers ... I'd also agree with the upgrade to Dot 5 fluid and braided flexi's whilst it's all in bits - just need to flush any Dot 4 out of the system - but it is worth it ....
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,306
- Location
- South London/North Kent
I was lazy
Mo Murphy
Active Member
- Posts
- 89
- Location
- Letchworth Garden City
DOT 5.1 not DOT 5 which is silicone based and will rot all the rubber seals.
Mo
Mo
Yeah but 5 is more than 4 , so its an ''upgrade'',
It seems ''upgrades'' have become the idea of swapping out parts , with no consideration of consequence. I keep reading about people ''upgrading'' brake systems, never a mention about roller brake testers to see if the system is still balanced or indeed if it even works, no mention of brake master cylinders, brake fluid, brake balance valves, servos , stopping distance, no thought what so ever to how braking systems work. Then when they have to do an emergency stop, or brake hard they wonder why their rears lock up first or the car becomes unstable in corner braking.
Mo Murphy
Active Member
- Posts
- 89
- Location
- Letchworth Garden City
Brand awareness Dear, image is everything.
It's not what you do its what you appear to do.
Mo
It's not what you do its what you appear to do.
Mo
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,306
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Mines tested everytime it gets an MOT. Never had an issue.
Brakes flat, straight and happy in corners.
Brakes flat, straight and happy in corners.
No it doesnt, braking on each axle and cross axle balance is tested.
Here is a scenario, matey decides his 110 needs ''uprated'' braking, puts more efficient brakes on it, 70mph on a motorway, wet road, corner, accident ahead, he needs to slow down quick.
Slams on the anchors and the car starts slowing down very quickly, but the more efficient brakes force the front of the car down, rear has less traction and locks up, matey comes crashing into everything sideways.
Matey never thought to ''upgrade'' his front springs to cope with the more efficient braking.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,306
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Good point well presented.
I can see that if fitting massive calipers 6 pots etc... However making sure the standard system is "new" and working correctly, new fluid, high end pads and some slotted discs isnt going to result in your scenario.
That said how would you reccomend testing an "uprated" or new system?
I can see that if fitting massive calipers 6 pots etc... However making sure the standard system is "new" and working correctly, new fluid, high end pads and some slotted discs isnt going to result in your scenario.
That said how would you reccomend testing an "uprated" or new system?
I would just fit stainless pistons (either refurb your current set or buy new and replace the piston), use genuine brake pads, and leave it at that. Vented/slotted/drilled/etc just fill with mud and loose any benefit there might have been as soon as you use the land rover as a land rover. The standard brake set up is more than capable of stopping a fully loaded 110 with 3.5 ton in the trailer behind it as long as everything is in good order. I also do mean everything, pipework, flexi's, master, servo, fluid, calipers, pads, disk, the whole system!
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Yep. Nothing wrong with the standard brakes on a Defender anyway.
On a rolling brake tester, get the correct figures for braking on the front and rear or just use common sense, rears should not exceed what 80 percent of the fronts? Its common sense to say that if you have stronger braking on the front you need stronger springs to cope,
I have heard of people fitting 110 calipers to 90's as one of these upgrades , I have never seen anyone post results from a rolling test rig to see exactly what they have achieved.
The best thing you can do , if your brakes arnt working properly, is fix them. If calipers are seized, replace them, discs are worn, replace them, pads worn, replace them too. Every few years replace the fluid, if you want piece of mind bring it to a garage with an MOT bay, they can test the brakes on the brake tester.
Ive never had a problem unless something is broken.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,306
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Vented and slotted discs are fine in slop, literally slings it all out due to the design. Drilled is where the issues occur.
@nobber good to know. May have a look see whats what.
That said I do I have uprated (suited to the current weight, had it weighed and chose accordingly) OME springs on the front and rear so plenty man enough for the job
@nobber good to know. May have a look see whats what.
That said I do I have uprated (suited to the current weight, had it weighed and chose accordingly) OME springs on the front and rear so plenty man enough for the job
