D2 Keys... issue

I'll try to explain this the best way I can. At some point the ignition barrel has been changed, so I'm left with an original key that operates the door locks, immobiliser etc other than the drivers door which I belive has an actuator problem, so I have to..
I lock all doors with the original key in the drivers door, which sets the system including the immobiliser.
Open the doors with the unlock button then open drivers door with the original key, then use the plain ignition key to start the car (relativity quickly) or the immobiliser kicks back in.. a right pita!!
Any solution or ideas on the way forward most welcome guys...

Descapri said:

I'll try to explain this the best way I can. At some point the ignition barrel has been changed, so I'm left with an original key that operates the door locks, immobiliser etc other than the drivers door which I belive has an actuator problem, so I have to..
I lock all doors with the original key in the drivers door, which sets the system including the immobiliser.
Open the doors with the unlock button then open drivers door with the original key, then use the plain ignition key to start the car (relativity quickly) or the immobiliser kicks back in.. a right pita!!
Any solution or ideas on the way forward most welcome guys...

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If that's the best way you can then IMO it's a problem...

Rethink and explain better cos it makes almost no sense as long as in your statement it's no clear difference between "key" and "fob" nor between alarm and "immobiliser"(which are not the same thing)... though i can guess that the simple fix for you would be to go with the replaced ignition barrel to a locksmith to make it work with the original key which hopefully has a working fob(aka the original keyfob) and replace the faulty driver's door actuator.. simple as that unless i misunderstood your chaotic description

NOTE**** attachment for clarity

sierrafery said:

If that's the best way you can then IMO it's a problem...

Rethink and explain better cos it makes almost no sense as long as in your statement it's no clear difference between "key" and "fob" nor between alarm and "immobiliser"(which are not the same thing)... though i can guess that the simple fix for you would be to go with the replaced ignition barrel to a locksmith to make it work with the original key which hopefully has a working fob(aka the original keyfob) and replace the faulty driver's door actuator.. simple as that unless i misunderstood your chaotic description

NOTE**** attachment for clarity

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Thank you for your thoughts and suggestion to solve my problem. Clearly my "chaotic description" created a WTF moment which in turn made me laugh out loud

Descapri said:

I'll try to explain this the best way I can. At some point the ignition barrel has been changed, so I'm left with an original key that operates the door locks, immobiliser etc other than the drivers door which I belive has an actuator problem, so I have to..
I lock all doors with the original key in the drivers door, which sets the system including the immobiliser.
Open the doors with the unlock button then open drivers door with the original key, then use the plain ignition key to start the car (relativity quickly) or the immobiliser kicks back in.. a right pita!!
Any solution or ideas on the way forward most welcome guys...

Click to expand...

If the immobiliser kicks in just press the unlock button on the fob, that'll allow you to start the car, I have to do this all the time now, you'll get used to it!

Stanleysteamer said:

If the immobiliser kicks in just press the unlock button on the fob, that'll allow you to start the car, I have to do this all the time now, you'll get used to it!

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I'll certainly try that as it would make life much easier..
Im currently looking for a good working actuator which should improve things

Stanleysteamer said:

If the immobiliser kicks in just press the unlock button on the fob, that'll allow you to start the car, I have to do this all the time now, you'll get used to it!

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That's because your's is a Rover 75 fob which missses the remobilisation "cip" from factory or your D2's fob has it faulty... the pointed bit makes the difference, on R75 fob is not there from factory hence nothing to work with the remobilisation exciter coil(unfortunately some sellers are wrongly selling such fobs as being for D2 just cos they look the same...i've seen very rare cases when this coil was faulty as well or accidentally unplugged then the fob must be used to unlock again after 30 seconds to be able to start the vehicle

sierrafery said:

That's because your's is a Rover 75 fob which missses the remobilisation "cip" from factory or your D2's fob has it faulty... the pointed bit makes the difference, on R75 fob is not there from factory hence nothing to work with the remobilisation exciter coil(unfortunately some sellers are wrongly selling such fobs as being for D2 just cos they look the same...i've seen very rare cases when this coil was faulty as well or accidentally unplugged then the fob must be used to unlock again after 30 seconds to be able to start the vehicle

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No it isn't you cheeky chappie!
It is the original D2 key. Of which I have two.
I bought a set of bits so I could have the fob part in a better piece of plastic as the old ones had worn out leaving the innards exposed.
I took the innards out of one old key and fob and put them in the new one, so they are protected and still work.
The key that turns the ignition is empty of all the electronic stuff. Which is why once I have opened the car by pressing on the new fob, with its blank key, I can put the old key in the ignition and it will start, if I am quick enough, if not, I press the unlock button on the fob of the new key, which is on the same ring, and it deimmobilises it and it'll start.
If I use the other old key which is partly open to the elements and I need to push the microswitches with a thumbnail, it works fine and it will start the car no matter what as the gizmo in its fob it closer to the ignition switch.
You would think the two keys being on the same ring would be close enough, but no!

Stanleysteamer said:

1. If I use the other old key which is partly open to the elements and I need to push the microswitches with a thumbnail, it works fine and it will start the car no matter what as the gizmo in its fob it closer to the ignition switch.
2. You would think the two keys being on the same ring would be close enough, but no!

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1. means that the oldkey works as it should and t's nothing wrong with the remobilisation coil
2. on the same ring is close enough that's certain... if you need to unlock then it's a problem with that fob's remobilisation cip

Stanleysteamer said:

The key that turns the ignition is empty of all the electronic stuff. Which is why once I have opened the car by pressing on the new fob, with its blank key, I can put the old key in the ignition and it will start,

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you know that the blades are interchangeable do you?

sierrafery said:

1. means that the oldkey works as it should and t's nothing wrong with the remobilisation coil
2. on the same ring is close enough that's certain... if you need to unlock then it's a problem with that fob's remobilisation cip

you know that the blades are interchangeable do you?

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I would change the blade only that it is loose as it is, I'd hate to make it worse by putting it in a new fob.
Re your second point, I'll have to put the other old key on the same ring and see if that works.

I had once a fob on a ring with other empty one and it worked for me hence my belief