Freelander 2 (LR2) Cut out - P0045-19

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spacebrodie

Member
Posts
12
Help and guidance please.

I’ve had an intermittent problem for over a year now which is gradually getting worse to the point the car is now unreliable to take out.

The car will just cut out - either on idle or whilst driving, especially when coming off the revs and the revs drop down to under 1500rpm. However, it can cut out just after start on idle without acceleration.

When it cuts out or idling, the fuel pressure reading on the Autel, will drop, occasionally it recovers but eventually or usually cuts out. Previously I was getting a number of faults (low fuel pressure etc) but P0045-19 has been pretty consistent and now appears immediately after engine cut out.

I’ve been chasing this and other minor issues and I’ve carried out quite a bit of work which I will summarise

Fuel filter x 2 genuine
Replace HPFP - used known good
Fuel pressure sensor and regulator - used known good
Injectors - all tested and passed - reamed and new washers etc fitted
Leak off valve - genuine
Throttle body - OEM
Turbo actuator X 2
Full replacement turbo and actuator - remanufactured
EGR - OEM
Cooler - Genuine
Air filter - genuine
MAF - OEM
MAP - OEM
Crank shaft sensor - X 2 OEM
Oil service and filter
Alternator belt, pulleys and tensioners (inc alternator pulley)
Replace turbo solenoid connector and 30cm wiring
Second earth cable

All the above and no cure at any point.

From recollection, this issue starting after I ran out of fuel, so given the above with no cure - I installed the following

Fuel tank - genuine
Both senders - genuine / OEM

Sadly, no cure either…. Appreciate this sounds like a lot - but it car was bought to develop my spanner skills... and i've enjoyed the jobs... just need to improve diagnosis... and electrics is totally new.

When this started, the fault was occasional but is now happening pretty much every time, although if the car has been off for a while it will idle happily for 20/30 mins until hot… switch it off and back on and then it will stall.

Car starts after clearing the codes and removing the key.

I would be grateful if you had any guidance. The car is in great condition inside and out and I’m reluctant to scrap and I don’t mind talking on the work and tackling a repair… however I lack skill in diagnosis! I now have access to JLR SDD but still learning how to use it.

I’m suspecting it could be wiring given the P0045-19 fault code (and other faults?). I’ve attached some read outs from my autel. I’ve had a look at some of the wiring including blue wire under fuel cradle and the wiring under the air box - nothing suspect. Possibly ECU - but i understand these are very reliable

Was considering stripping out the wiring loom and inspecting… however, thought I would post up here

I’ve also attached a receipt the previous owner gave me… had me wondering if this fault had always been there and has just come back… although I did have 6 months of no issue driving at all other than a yapping noise that the replacement turbo and EGR seems to have fixed.

Sorry for the long post… any guidance or suggestions on what I should do next? I have access to a multimeter and can follow instructions for a novice.

Thanks so much.

Andy

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When it cuts out, does the rev counter continue to show the current engine RPM, or does is fall to zero, when the engine is still turning?
 
When it cuts out, does the rev counter continue to show the current engine RPM, or does is fall to zero, when the engine is still turning?
Everything just drops to zero when cutting out. Sometimes if driving it will go into limp mode then cut out. If idling the revs and counter can drop and recover or just cut out.

When the revs drop, the fuel rail pressure drops down too, and goes back up if it recovers. Codes will occasionally show low fuel rail pressure faults... but not all the time... the p0045-19 is persistent
 
These were taken at the weekend from SDD by my son. carrying out the tests were difficult as the cut out was happening frequently.

EGR was replaced new a few weeks back and has been installed on SDD


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I note you say two crankshaft sensors have been fitted what make were they, Febi ? also was the wiring plug and wiring to crank sensor checked.

Have all the intercooler hoses been checked.

Haldex checked try unplugging it.

A read of this thread may help.

Thanks Arctic

Crankshaft sensor - first was a Delphi, (no change) second was an OEM from LR Centre - nor sure on brand.

Wiring plug - looked okay but spotted other posts re corrision - so i have bought a replacement connector and 10cm of cable to replace

Intercooler hoses - had a leak test done and all seemed sound. I had also replaced the one under the throttle body but it wasnt split.

Haldex - not tried... will i pull the fuse on it or disconnect the wiring into it?

Re Thread... will have a read of that one... think i have done before... seems this hesitation issue can plague these cars with many sources.

thanks again!
 
Thanks Arctic

Crankshaft sensor - first was a Delphi, (no change) second was an OEM from LR Centre - nor sure on brand.

Wiring plug - looked okay but spotted other posts re corrision - so i have bought a replacement connector and 10cm of cable to replace

Intercooler hoses - had a leak test done and all seemed sound. I had also replaced the one under the throttle body but it wasnt split.

Haldex - not tried... will i pull the fuse on it or disconnect the wiring into it?

Re Thread... will have a read of that one... think i have done before... seems this hesitation issue can plague these cars with many sources.

thanks again!
This is the crankshaft sensor i purchased recently and upon removing the original it was identical.

Febi.
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A bit of red rubber grease to protect the wiring.
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but as always make sure it is the right one for your car it should.
 
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