crunchy gears

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discomania

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,947
I think its a combination of low oil and the pushrod on the master needing adjusted but my gears seem to be a little crunchy. For example this morning I set off, went into 1st, reverse, and 2nd no problem. But 3rd always seems to crucnh in the morning now.

I always try and match the gear speeds so the syncros are not really needed but, for the odd lazy gear change like when someone decides to ruin your forward planning its nice to know its there.

I'll check the oil level, top up if need be, and I will have a look at the push rod.

Speaking of which, whats the best way to set the clutch pedal assy up. I changed it last year, and just bolted it up so at rest the pedal is ready to engage on the rod. But I find that over time it moves back a little, so I end up with play on the clutch pedal before it even starts to push the rod, thus loosing travel at the other end. Might be worth loctiteing it.

Anyway, I think I will look at those tonight, but if anyone has any thoughts, they would be much apprecaited.

NB. The gearbox is fairly new, maybe 20,000miles on it, so its not just the case of another clapped out gearbox.
 
You want to buy some proper oil for it - not that cr-ppy farmers stuff for people that cant read the can.You bin goin on about how good it is,fine in the back end of yer John Deere - not a landy box tho.;)
 
Would NEVER put it in a landrover gearbox... As you will know these gearboxes use ATF, thick oil would not lubricate it properly.

Universal tractor oil I had said is good in engines, as the post was about engine oil additives.
 
I would never take the mick ! Try some MTF94 oil in your box,better than Atf,made a big difference to shift quality in my dear wifes RR with R380 box.
 
the R380 in the disco is brilliant, and my LT77 has only just started doing it. I see what your saying but they don't ALWAYS do it.
 
Hey up disco, was your gearbox a recon or new!

Any how if it's crunching gears and its not the oil or the clutch then it must be either the gear lever set up where you adjust the springs on the remote housing, the remote housing worn or the baulk ring worn. I'd put my money on the baulk ring.

Some of the companies I dealt with when I was doing mine were absolute rubbish one bloke couldn't understand why I wanted to put a new fifth gear nut on and when he sent me it he sent me a second hand one, wouldn't like to buy a recon box off him, he couldn't believe it when I told him I'd made a tool to hold fifth gear while I torqued the nut up, he just hammered them up to **** with a windy gun!!!!! So if you've got a reconned one and the baulk ring was in tolerance then they wont have replaced it.

Have you tried that additive you can get it's not cheap and I've never tried it Ashcroft transmissions sell it.
 
Well its sort of stopped... I am not sure if it was the cold or what it was, suppose it could make the oil a bit thicker. Hmmm

It was a new gearbox as far as I am aware.
 
EP90 is not very good for the main box, its a self pumped gearbox you see.

Get some ATF in it quick. The transfer box uses EP90 though.

EP90 also in your swivels(or one shot grease) and diffs.

I have also sorted this problem, it was just needing the oil topped up. Maybe about 1/2 an inch from the top of the filler. Will change it over the holidays and jack it up on one side and stuff extra in.
 
yer well ;)

i used ATF and my shifting is so much better now. i dont think it had been changed in years! the amount of swarf on the magnetic bolt was crazy, it was like a xmas tree! will change again just before the summer to flush out the winters wading :) i suggest ya'll do the same!

G
 
i see there is a new board game coming out
its based on LZ and its called "revive the old fred"
the idea is you join up and then see which of the old dead freds you can bring back to life.
 
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