P38A Crankshaft Pulley removal

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Impman

Member
Posts
18
Location
Cookstown
Hi,

Much appreciated if someone could tell me the best way to remove the crankshaft pulley of my 2000 P38 2.5 as the dual mass element has failed.
I’ve removed the six bolts but pulley not moving - I have removed the fan unit and cowl but little else - radiator still fitted.
I note there are like threaded holes in the pulley where perhaps some form of puller could be attached but I’m not sure of the size or thread of bolts I would need.
Any help or advice much appreciated.
 
Sounds like the belt pulley, @Impman do not allow the engine to be turned in the opposite direction as this could allow the timing to jump a tooth. Just a precaution. If in doubt pull the starter out and lock/jam the flywheel before you commence. I've not removed one myself and I can only presume by looking at a diagram it should come off after the bolts are undone... It could be rusted in place?
 
The center of the pulley is held on to the crank by the big bolt which should be very tight and then some more as it also locks the oil pump drive. You shouldn't have to disturb this, with the six bolts removed the outer part should lever off the center.i may well be corroded to the spigot.A couple of pry bars 180 degrees opposed to each other should work it off.from memory I think the bolt holes you mentioned are used to pull off the center boss.a bit more stripping down may be necessary.
 
I tried to remove one in a scrapyard :eek: .not a chance :mad: ,maybe a bit of gentle heat in the middle ,but not directly on the big crank bolt ,and a puller, but i didn't have them with me at the time:oops:...needless to say its still there somewhere,:rolleyes: didn't need it just wanted a spare :(....
 
dubbleRR said:
I tried to remove one in a scrapyard :eek: .not a chance :mad: ,maybe a bit of gentle heat in the middle ,but not directly on the big crank bolt ,and a puller, but i didn't have them with me at the time:oops:...needless to say its still there somewhere,:rolleyes: didn't need it just wanted a spare :(....
Click to expand...
I wouldn't risk heat as the damper is a bonded rubber construction.unless it's knackered.
 
Impman said:
Hi,

Much appreciated if someone could tell me the best way to remove the crankshaft pulley of my 2000 P38 2.5 as the dual mass element has failed.
I’ve removed the six bolts but pulley not moving - I have removed the fan unit and cowl but little else - radiator still fitted.
I note there are like threaded holes in the pulley where perhaps some form of puller could be attached but I’m not sure of the size or thread of bolts I would need.
Any help or advice much appreciated.
Click to expand...
 
Hi,
Thanks for the responses so far and hopefully for the purposes of clarity the ribbed pulley is off as the rubber has basically disintegrated so I assume it is the rest of the dual mass damper that I’m looking to remove - I suppose for the pry bars I’ll have to take the radiator out as room is limited - especially to apply any significant pressure.
 
Impman said:
Hi,
Thanks for the responses so far and hopefully for the purposes of clarity the ribbed pulley is off as the rubber has basically disintegrated so I assume it is the rest of the dual mass damper that I’m looking to remove - I suppose for the pry bars I’ll have to take the radiator out as room is limited - especially to ap
ply any significant pressure.
Click to expand...
Kerect.;):D may be worth a bit of heat and penetrating oil
 
tomcat59alan said:
The center of the pulley is held on to the crank by the big bolt which should be very tight and then some more as it also locks the oil pump drive. You shouldn't have to disturb this, with the six bolts removed the outer part should lever off the center.i may well be corroded to the spigot.A couple of pry bars 180 degrees opposed to each other should work it off.from memory I think the bolt holes you mentioned are used to pull off the center boss.a bit more stripping down may be necessary.
Click to expand...

+1. Don't touch that big bolt as it has to be 'kin tight. You're talking about the crankshaft pulley damper. I don't think there is anything dual mass about it. There's the dual mass flywheel but that's the rear of the engine before the clutch.
 
Now sorted - removed the grille, latch panel and radiator only - keeping it full of coolant. As a precautionary measure I removed the water pump pulley and tensioner pulley. I tapped around the remnants of the dual mass unit and then with a chisel I hit the edge to try and turn it - in hindsight perhaps not a good idea as there is a locating stud on the crankshaft which I could have sheared - but didn’t. I removed the plastic cover beneath the sump and put a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt and using a metal bar I was able to tap the bottom back side of the dual mass unit from underneath then rotate the engine - tap - rotate - etc - job done. As suggested by someone else I opted to order a bmw part as opposed to a landrover at significant savings - hopefully it arrives soon so as I can get the P38 back on the road.
Thanks to all for your help
 
Part arrived today from Germany - topran part number 500 624 (crankshaft dual mass unit for P38 to same as BMW 325td) paid 115 euro which included postage - I thought it was good value for money but we’ll see how it lasts. Topran could be buying the parts from anywhere I suppose but we’ll see - I don’t do big miles per years so here’s hoping!!! I see a Febi Bilstein unit on eBay at circa £120 which in all probability would be better than the topran unit but it’s too late now!
 
Impman said:
Part arrived today from Germany - topran part number 500 624 (crankshaft dual mass unit for P38 to same as BMW 325td) paid 115 euro which included postage - I thought it was good value for money but we’ll see how it lasts. Topran could be buying the parts from anywhere I suppose but we’ll see - I don’t do big miles per years so here’s hoping!!! I see a Febi Bilstein unit on eBay at circa £120 which in all probability would be better than the topran unit but it’s too late now!
Click to expand...
The name on the box means little these days, probably all made in China:rolleyes:
 
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