Crankshaft bolt.

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mick the builder

mick the builder

Well-Known Member
Posts
5,901
Location
Sligo,Wild West of Ireland.
Time to change the crank oil seal that I should have done when I changed the belt. I thought it would spin out as didn't use thread lock and it was only done about 8 months ago. Not a chance. My new makita wouldn't budge it and that was the reason I bought it. Breaker bar? No. Breaker bar with 6 ft. Steel gas pipe? Bent the pipe. Borrowed mates Milwaukee impact that spun it off before? No. Scaffold tube next. Hope it works, dont fancy the bar on chassis and spin her over technique.
 
Bar on the chassis is the way I have done it as above. Some plus gas may help. Put it back with thread lock, not only prevents loosening but helps stop corrosion on the threads.
 
Try shocking it loose, although the gun should have done that anyway. What are you doing to lock the engine up?
 
 
mick the builder said:
In gear on the floor, mrs on the brake pedal.
Click to expand...
you need a crank locking tool like one of these (google), you can but them or make one up yourself if you have a thick enough piece of steel. This locks the crank in place without any risk to the gearbox, it sits against the chassis rail when the engine is still in the vehicle.
upload_2020-3-27_8-51-12.png


To get the bolt undone (and done back up to the correct torque) I have one of these 300-1000NM. I know they are very expensive to buy new but I picked mine up second hand for about £60. It more than paid for itself the first time I did my timing belt. Having done that a few times now and used it for other things (vw wheel bearings, tractor wheel nuts) it would probably have paid for itself by now if I had bought it new.

upload_2020-3-27_8-54-28.png


Prices look like they have moved on a bit since I got mine (was a few years ago now) but still avavaible second hand for a lot less than new:
Link 1
Link 2
 
Last edited:
dag019 said:
you need a crank locking tool like one of these (google), you can but them or make one up yourself if you have a thick enough piece of steel. This locks the crank in place without any risk to the gearbox, it sits against the chassis rail when the engine is still in the vehicle.
View attachment 203802

To get the bolt undone (and done back up to the correct torque) I have one of these 300-1000NM. I know they are very expensive to buy new but I picked mine up second hand for about £60. It more than paid for itself the first time I did my timing belt. Having done that a few times now and used it for other things (vw wheel bearings, tractor wheel nuts) it would probably have paid for itself by now if I had bought it new.

View attachment 203805

Prices look like they have moved on a bit since I got mine (was a few years ago now) but still avavaible second hand for a lot less than new:
Link 1
Link 2
Click to expand...
Thanks dag, after snapping my extension bar in half with a 6ft scaffold tube, I bit the bullet and tied my breaker bar under under the chassis rail, took of wire to stop solenoid and gave it a spin. 2nd go, it cracked open. Thanks for all advice everyone. Lot of oil in there.:D
 
Someone please give me the answer I want to hear. Gasket snapped taking the cover of. I want to just clean it and put it back with a dab of rtv over the breaks? It's not like its keeping any oil in is it. Really dont want to wait days for a delivery.
 
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