Cracked Chassis

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Boxer

Active Member
Posts
681
Location
Wirral
Further investigation of the 'cracked chassis' reveals that the captive 'nut' inside the chassis rail is , in fact a threaded tube. Which is a pity as it is directly below a 'knock-out' plug and if it had been say a 19mm nut i could have dropped a socket on it and tightened it up, no doubt getting rid of the awful screaming squeal and not having to bother a dealer. Who apparently want 2K to do the job.

Any bright ideas, and what size is the bolt?
 
Thanks hat man I've read all of these and , as always I'm sure there must be an easier way. Will keep you posted. I would have looked at it today except the missus went to work in the defender and ran out of diesel on the M53 !! I think she was looking at the temperature guage again. Bloody scary priming the system with juggernautes howling past about six inches from your arse. So shes got the Hippo till tonight.
 
Right

I got underneath and got a bar on the socket and managed to undo the bolt , the captive tube is still captive, just. Took the bolt out and cleaned up the thread put the trolly jack under the subframe near the bolthole and lifted the car off the ground. Wanged the bolt in good and tight and took it down the unadopted road. Sounds good so far. Only problem is what was the problem. I doubt that it wasn't tight enough as I broke one extension piece trying to get another turn on the bolt before I took it out.
 
Thanks Hat Man but it seems to have gone now. Fingers crossed.
I talked to my freindly LR man (4x4 rentals) who said he has had about 200 Freelanders and if they creak/crack then its usually that the bolt has backed off and then corroded which makes you think they are tight. Taking them out and cleaning them up allows you to get them tight and stops the racket.

We shall see. I think I'll do the other three.
 
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