Coverting from auto to manual?

My Tdi 300 is a luvlee old tank.
It's given me loads of the usual grief since purchase granted, but most of this have been sorted now.
The only thing I really wish though, is WHY didn't i get a manual?

Why?
On reflection i simply rushed into the decision because it looked a good deal 'at the time,' with many mods already fitted to save me the additional expense. Purchase in haste, regret at your leisure.
Nowt wrong with the box though, superbly smooth in fact. Most suprising considering it's done 155k.

Apart from the moderate difference in fuel consumption, my biggest gripe is the fact that their is no engine braking whilst going down severe slopes off road.
I know all about accelerating etc. if things are getting a bit hairy, but this car was going to be used by kids for an off roading experience. This is totally out of the question now, as relying on them to press the brake pedal when asked, is a bit of a liabilty to put it mildly.
Can't even use the ruddy handbrake in an emergency for cryin' out loud!

Land Rover. WHY didn't you fit a NORMAL handbrake?

Now my kids have driven a manual Disco over some pretty steep terrain, and i was mighty impressed how it would move along up and down without needing to touch ANY of the pedals. The engine braking was superb.

So the question is, is it feasable to change the box over to manual, or does anyone wasnt to do a swap?

As I say, i'm loathed to part with it as it's been such a fine comfy old beast, but it really isn't doing what i need it to do, JUST because of the auto.

So you want to go back to that horrible R380 piece of sh-t - you are welcome to it.Its not that easy to do if is an EDC injected engine cos the crank sensor wont have anything to read.So you need to convert back to a mechanically governed VE injector pump.
Easier to just flog it and buy the peasant spec one with 3 pedals on the floor and blinkers.

CJ there was a thread on here about changeing 'boxes over, thing the cost would be to great.
Have you thought off just manually shifting the 'lever down the 'box to get engine braking? Did this a couple of times this year up in Yorkshire with the 'van on the back, seemed ok.

As far as I know all automatic boxes provide strong engine braking when 1 is selected, and I think most do so also in reverse.

Auto-boxes more or less free-wheel when in D, but off road it should never be in D for the very reason you complain of.

Auto box for teaching kids is a good idea, and if the kids can't be relied on to press the brake pedal on demand, it would be a whole lot easier to fit a passenger side pedal or lever (using a rod or cable) for the passenger to be able to apply the footbrake, than swapping to manual.

CharlesY

Bottom box, select first and difflock: should get you down anything without touching the brakes. If it doesn't feel more or less like a manual there's something worryingly wrong with your system.

PASTMASTER said:

Bottom box, select first and difflock: should get you down anything without touching the brakes. If it doesn't feel more or less like a manual there's something worryingly wrong with your system.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I now have some suspicions.

I'll try it tomorrow.

The great advantage of teaching kids in the auto is they cannot make the deadly mistake on steep downslopes of hitting the clutch pedal.

I like the Lo Range + difflock and select 1 situation.
If that doesn't hold you back it must be Goddam steep !

Worth checking (on a modest down-slope!) what happens if you shift from 1 to 2.
Does it make the bugger take off free-wheeling?

I think the manual will tell you if it gets engine braking in 2 as well as 1.

Enjoy .... and the kids too.

CharlesY

PASTMASTER said:

Bottom box, select first and difflock: should get you down anything without touching the brakes. If it doesn't feel more or less like a manual there's something worryingly wrong with your system.

Click to expand...

Should diff lock engaged REALLY be neccessary to enable engine braking?
Genuine question, and i'll certainly try it tomorrow. Only normally use it when i'm stuck tbh.


Just noticed that CharlesY has mentioned using diff lock too!

Is this where i've been going wrong i wonder? Never had an auto before, so it's a bit new on me this stuff.

C.J. said:

Should diff lock engaged REALLY be neccessary to enable engine braking?
Genuine question, and i'll certainly try it tomorrow. Only normally use it when i'm stuck tbh.


Just noticed that CharlesY has mentioned using diff lock too!

Is this where i've been going wrong i wonder? Never had an auto before, so it's a bit new on me this stuff.

Click to expand...

You are quite right - difflock is NOT essential for engine braking, BUT BUT BUT .... unless difflock IS engaged (locked) if even any ONE wheel loses grip, you have lost ALL engine braking instantly ON ALL FOUR WHEELS.

So, the advice you are getting is to lock the centre diff at all times on the loose stuff, especially steep downgrades when engine braking is the first means of holding her back. It means at least two wheels, (and at least one wheel on each axle at that) have to lose grip for you to lose engine braking, and that makes a HUGE difference to the chances of the big slip.

Does that help?

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

You are quite right - difflock is NOT essential for engine braking, BUT BUT BUT .... unless difflock IS engaged (locked) if even any ONE wheel loses grip, you have lost ALL engine braking instantly ON ALL FOUR WHEELS.

So, the advice you are getting is to lock the centre diff at all times on the loose stuff, especially steep downgrades when engine braking is the first means of holding her back. It means at least two wheels, (and at least one wheel on each axle at that) have to lose grip for you to lose engine braking, and that makes a HUGE difference to the chances of the big slip.

Does that help?

CharlesY

Click to expand...

Yes. Think i've got my head around that one now.
I'll report back later with results.

Yup I Agree With The Others, Low Box, Gear 1, Difflock. An Auto Is A Better Tool To Go Offroading If The Box Is Used Correctly

yella said:

Yup I Agree With The Others, Low Box, Gear 1, Difflock. An Auto Is A Better Tool To Go Offroading If The Box Is Used Correctly

Click to expand...

Right. I'm off to a swamp with some liitle hills now to DISCOever just how good this auto box really is going down 'ill, in low 1st WITH diff lock on.
It better be, or you lot are in BIG trouble, and WILL have to purchase it off me.

I may be some time, and have 999 tapped in me phone already....just in case like.

C.J. said:

Right. I'm off to a swamp with some liitle hills now to DISCOever just how good this auto box really is going down 'ill, in low 1st WITH diff lock on.
It better be, or you lot are in BIG trouble, and WILL have to purchase it off me.

I may be some time, and have 999 tapped in me phone already....just in case like.

Click to expand...

Prepare to have .....



FUN!!!!

Off-road and autobox were made for each other.

CharlesY

Still not sure tbh. Hills weren't big enough to have a good run downhill. It was defo braking though, but not as much as a manual iirc?

Stuffed it in diff lock, but had no way of knowing if it was helping or even workin' for that matter. Not slippy enough i guess.

What's the standard test for checking if the diff lock is werkin' proper....apart from the light being on that is.

Jack one corner up and try and turn the wheel. If your difflock is working you shudn't be able to turn the wheel.

Ian

iannotts said:

Jack one corner up and try and turn the wheel. If your difflock is working you shudn't be able to turn the wheel.

Ian

Click to expand...

Thanks for that Ian. Job for tomorrow.