Coolant leak overflow

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Shore968

Member
Posts
19
Location
East devon
Hi everyone

Another issue with the new discovery, Was taking a loaded trailer out today and had a big hill before getting to the final location, tailer combined weight was around 2 tonne. Once I got there and into the office for paperwork, Came out to find coolant had overflowed from the overflow pipe of the expansion tank. Coolant pipes felt hot but no solid like too much pressure and no other sign of anything wrong. Drove home no problem with no further leaks, any reason as to why this might of happened?

I have read a lot about possible gasket failure, also expansion tank cap which I'll order tonight

It's a discovery 2 2001 tdi
 
Hopefully it's the cap!

Changed mine twice!

And I don't think it matters where they come from, thee first one was OEM!

Mid range for price!

Kev
 
TDI or TD5?

Could be as simple as coolant system is weak and you gave it a hard time, ie rad blocked/furred up/viscous hub had its day, coolant as old as the hills.
Is car standard tune/spot lamps etc?
 
lynall said:
TDI or TD5?

Could be as simple as coolant system is weak and you gave it a hard time, ie rad blocked/furred up/viscous hub had its day, coolant as old as the hills.
Is car standard tune/spot lamps etc?
Click to expand...
Sorry was late when wrote it, it's a td5.

The landy came with no history, so imagine the coolant hasn't been changed for a while considering everything else I'm finding on it, for example the transfer box wiring loom was missing completely.

It's had a stage 1 re-map, 2" inch lift, ace removed. I've got to replace the aux tensioner so I suppose for the cost I could just replace the viscous hub at the same time. Only live 5 minutes from gentleman of salvage, imagine they might have one.

I'm planning on replacing the coolant pipes as I can see some weaping in places, so was going to drain down and flush the coolant out.
 
Shore968 said:
It's had a stage 1 re-map, 2" inch lift,
Click to expand...
Hi, i presume that if it has a lift it has bigger tyres too... so as long as you dont know exactly who remapped it and how towing uphill can increase the coolant temp in no time to 110-115*C and you can't know if you don't have additional temp gauge to see cos the dash gauge stays at the middle between 70 -119*C, it goes up only at 120 which IMO is late, if the coolant is not correct mix and the cap not sealing well the coolant can expand too much hence the overflow ... my advice is to replace the coolant with proper 50% OAT mix, fit a new cap and tighten it to max allowed and better fit a temp gauge but the best would be an EGT gauge too cos i think now you escaped but a HG failure is imminent if you dont watch the temp values carefully and you are towing with bigger than standard tyres without proper tuning for that

for engine temp gauge i recommend this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311651133535 which doesnt need any mods on the coolant circuit just to find a suitable bolt on the head to fit te sensor ring to it
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
Hi, i presume that if it has a lift it has bigger tyres too... so as long as you dont know exactly who remapped it and how towing uphill can increase the coolant temp in no time to 110-115*C and you can't know if you don't have additional temp gauge to see cos the dash gauge stays at the middle between 70 -119*C, it goes up only at 120 which IMO is late, if the coolant is not correct mix and the cap not sealing well the coolant can expand too much hence the overflow ... my advice is to replace the coolant with proper 50% OAT mix, fit a new cap and tighten it to max allowed and better fit a temp gauge but the best would be an EGT gauge too cos i think now you escaped but a HG failure is imminent if you dont watch the temp values carefully and you are towing with bigger than standard tyres without proper tuning for that

for engine temp gauge i recommend this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311651133535 which doesnt need any mods on the coolant circuit just to find a suitable bolt on the head to fit te sensor ring to it
Click to expand...
Thank you for this, it's always been a worry of mine and tbh it's the first discovery I've owned so un-aware of what should be right on it or what is currently wrong. Suppose extra cautious!!

It did have massive mud tryes on which I've removed and put 245/75/16 AT's on. I've always wondered about getting hold of someone or a local garage with a nancom to get a reading everything is ok.

I'm planning to do the oil pump bolt as well when I can as unsure if this has ever been done. Would you advise replacing the coolant system pipes at the same time as draining the system down?
 
sierrafery said:
Hi, i presume that if it has a lift it has bigger tyres too... so as long as you dont know exactly who remapped it and how towing uphill can increase the coolant temp in no time to 110-115*C and you can't know if you don't have additional temp gauge to see cos the dash gauge stays at the middle between 70 -119*C, it goes up only at 120 which IMO is late, if the coolant is not correct mix and the cap not sealing well the coolant can expand too much hence the overflow ... my advice is to replace the coolant with proper 50% OAT mix, fit a new cap and tighten it to max allowed and better fit a temp gauge but the best would be an EGT gauge too cos i think now you escaped but a HG failure is imminent if you dont watch the temp values carefully and you are towing with bigger than standard tyres without proper tuning for that

for engine temp gauge i recommend this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311651133535 which doesnt need any mods on the coolant circuit just to find a suitable bolt on the head to fit te sensor ring to it
Click to expand...
Sorry when you say about tuning would you say having it re-tuned would be an idea?
 
Shore968 said:
Would you advise replacing the coolant system pipes at the same time as draining the system down?
Click to expand...
That would be a good move if you can afford... nanocom would not show you much on a simple code check what's going on only if you set it to record live readings from a harsh drive
 
Shore968 said:
Sorry when you say about tuning would you say having it re-tuned would be an idea?
Click to expand...
It's important to know what kind of "stage 1"remap it has cos f it's an old school injector duration map not AFR based it can be a killer on a long run(cost me a new head and injectors untill i realised myself)... with more that 5% bigger tyres(your 245/75/16 are at the limit) you need performance intercooler and radiator too but if you want to tow uphill some ratio change in the transfer box would be good as well but if the remap is well made considering the tyre dimensins too as long as you watch carefully the engine temp(and EGT eventually) you can manage the throttle as to be on the safe sid or stop if things are going mad... is your's manual or auto? cos on autos the tyre dimensions have even more bad effects... i explained that many times in other threads but in a nutshell: everything on the D2 was calibrated from factory for std dimension tyres, once you go out of these limits it wil mix up all the vehicle's management with all kind of side effects... ask me how i know
 
sierrafery said:
That would be a good move if you can afford... nanocom would not show you much on a simple code check what's going on only if you set it to record live readings from a harsh drive
Click to expand...
I've looked at getting this pipework from john craddock
 

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sierrafery said:
It's important to know what kind of "stage 1"remap it has cos f it's an old school injector duration map not AFR based it can be a killer on a long run(cost me a new head and injectors untill i realised myself)... with more that 5% bigger tyres(your 245/75/16 are at the limit) you need performance intercooler and radiator too but if you want to tow uphill some ratio change in the transfer box would be good as well but if the remap is well made considering the tyre dimensins too as long as you watch carefully the engine temp(and EGT eventually) you can manage the throttle as to be on the safe sid or stop if things are going mad... is your's manual or auto? cos on autos the tyre dimensions have even more bad effects... i explained that many times in other threads but in a nutshell: everything on the D2 was calibrated from factory for std dimension tyres, once you go out of these limits it wil mix up all the vehicle's management with all kind of side effects... ask me how i know
Click to expand...
Wow sounds like I've got a lot to sort out then. Regarding the tuning I had spoke with td5 reborn to see if they could check the ecu and what's been mapped, with possibly remapping. Are these any good as I've herd mixed reviews

Regarding the upgrading cooling system etc, sounds quite a large job but if it saves me having to do a new head gasket the cost is worth it
 
Shore968 said:
Wow sounds like I've got a lot to sort out then. Regarding the tuning I had spoke with td5 reborn to see if they could check the ecu and what's been mapped, with possibly remapping. Are these any good as I've herd mixed reviews

Regarding the upgrading cooling system etc, sounds quite a large job but if it saves me having to do a new head gasket the cost is worth it
Click to expand...
I know nothing about those tuners... as about cooling i insist that the best move is to fit a temp gauge ASAP as it's easy and not so expensive and go from there cos if the temp doesnt go mad(which means not above max 105 for short time while towing uphill or above 95 under load when it's warm outside) you don't need other remap as long as you are happy with the consumption and how it's running... you'll see that the engine temp varies quite fast between uphill and downhill once you have a gauge
 
I can't remember if you said it is an auto or not. Towing that weight up a hill, or even heavier, do put the box into 3 rather than leave it in D, if it is auto.
Or simply stop and put it into low ratio.
I all the time am towing seriously heavy weights up our road home which climbs from 240 metres to 600 metres in about 7 minutes. So you know how I know. and mine is completely standard.
 
sierrafery said:
I know nothing about those tuners... as about cooling i insist that the best move is to fit a temp gauge ASAP as it's easy and not so expensive and go from there cos if the temp doesnt go mad(which means not above max 105 for short time while towing uphill or above 95 under load when it's warm outside) you don't need other remap as long as you are happy with the consumption and how it's running... you'll see that the engine temp varies quite fast between uphill and downhill once you have a gauge
Click to expand...
It'll come next week the temp stat you've mentioned about buying, before I order it I see on another post you've mentioned about exhaust temp etc as I put in egt temp in the seatch and a post came up your'd done before.

Is there something which has both read outs on which could mount on the dash or something or do you just have to make it fit somewhere?

I thunk it's running ok, again not having a discovery before I can't really compare it.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I can't remember if you said it is an auto or not. Towing that weight up a hill, or even heavier, do put the box into 3 rather than leave it in D, if it is auto.
Or simply stop and put it into low ratio.
I all the time am towing seriously heavy weights up our road home which climbs from 240 metres to 600 metres in about 7 minutes. So you know how I know. and mine is completely standard.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, sorry I forgot to mention it's a manual. I think I'll be doing that more often, can't risk blowing it up just to move some sheep about
 
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