conversion to full tilt?

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T

tbone portly

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Derbyshire
Hiya

the shed has flown the MOT again, so I'm back on my messing around with it kick.... how difficult / costly would it be to remove the top and go for a full tilt for the summer?

it's a 109 (just to make it more expensive)

best of both worlds then, a 6 pot landy AND a soft top :D

cheers

Terry
 
It's just bolts, like everything else on it! You need a full tilt stick set with door pieces (a vertical and horizontal part per side) and sharks tooth rail for above windscreen. About £180+ secondhand and about the same for a tatty tilt or £350 + for new. The body needs a few hooks and cleats if yours doesn't have them. They're just hooks at the end of the day though.

Oh and a tailgate, £50+ secondhand.
 
All the hooks and cleats are on there - that's what got me thinking - plus that big yellow thing in the sky!

presume I can use the doors as they are - or take the tops off?

off to look for a set of sticks......
 
Check for two hooks, rod like, pointing downwards just behind doors, on the tub. If it was built as a truck cab you'll have all the others, but not these two.
 
What are you going to do about seatbelts? I would love to take the roof off mine but that is the only thing stopping me.
 
my seat belts fasten to the top of the bulkhead behind the seats - so they run over your shoulder, so no issues there (apart from the potential for a lot of pain if I stack it... :D)
 

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CalumM said:
What are you going to do about seatbelts? I would love to take the roof off mine but that is the only thing stopping me.
Click to expand...

You can have these ...
Land Rover Seat Belt Brackets | eBay

or a military roll hoop ...
bc908257.jpg


If you've got an 88'' then its not that easy to fit a mil roll hoop, the tank filler gets in the way of a decent installation.
...both top fixings will transfer to the bulkhead quite easily and work just fine... You'll need a spreader plate under the bulkhead but apart from that easy...
 
I would like to put them on the bulkhead so I don't have to buy the bar but I have inertia reels which have 2 points at the top corner so not sure how it would work. Maybe I could put the inertia reel as the bottom corner instead?
 
CalumM said:
I would like to put them on the bulkhead so I don't have to buy the bar but I have inertia reels which have 2 points at the top corner so not sure how it would work. Maybe I could put the inertia reel as the bottom corner instead?
Click to expand...

You need to ensure it is attached directly to the chassis - or on a sturdy bracket that is attached directly to the chassis - the reason being that in the event of an impact the whole unit can be ripped from the aluminium body work.
fit a strong bracket from the rear tub front mounting on the chassis, to the underside of the rear tub, in the cab part, just behind the seat-box...


This is one fitted to the near side ...
Its got 2 bolts down to the cill, and 2 bolts into the bracket that's bolted on the end of the cill.
It's made from 3mm plate and 25x25x3 angle, with a 25x5 stiffener welded up the edge as well ...
Drivers side is more fiddly cos of the fuel filler... thus the reel is behind the seat, to the side of the vehicle...


P1010001.jpg
 
OK, some homework done ... :eek:

There are standard fittings for Series III lap-and-diagonal retractable seat belts.

Refer to pages 2F-16 to 2G-09 in the Series III optional parts catalogue. :D

Also look at the defender seat belt brackets, they appear to be the same - but someone will confirm or not ...
 
Last edited:
are these seatbelt fittings standard, or upgrades? mine is as I got it, so I assumed they were mounted properly.... or as properly as anything was done in the 70's :D
 
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