Clutch, No clutch

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O Bife

O Bife

Active Member
Posts
409
Location
Almada, Portugal
Hi all, first off, Happy New Year.

Just got into my RR, started her up and then, as I went to apply the clutch, I noticed that the peddle was no where to be seen/felt! I shut down the motor and got out and took a look only to find the clutch peddle tucked up nicely against the floor/fire-wall.

I heard no noise, felt no thud bang or what ever. The peddle was in it's right place and working ok when I first got into the car to start her up!

Any ideas what it might/could be.


  • A new clutch release lever was fitted 2008.
  • A new clutch was fitted in Dec 2010
  • A new slave cylinder was fitted in Dec 2010
 
wammers said:
Roll pins in release lever.
Click to expand...

and would they cause the peddle to rest all limp up against the fire-wall?

Even when I lift the peddle, it remains limp and "life-less".

If I remember correctly, the time when the release lever broke I did not loose any pressure in the peddle, just lost the clutch it's self.
 
Last edited:
O Bife said:
and would they cause the peddle to rest all limp up against the fire-wall?

Even when I lift the peddle, it remains limp and "life-less".

I remember the time when the release lever broke I did not loose any pressure in the peddle, just lost the clutch it's self.
Click to expand...

It is the release lever that puts pressure on the slave cylinder to push back the clutch pedal. My guess would be roll pins get under and have a look.
 
Yup, as above. Have a look under and you will probably find your slave cylinder jacked out all the way, mine also cut the piston seal so new slave cylinder required. The roll pins are £2 to buy but its gearboxes out I'm afraid. I put a new clutch in while I had it stripped down.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Yup, as above. Have a look under and you will probably find your slave cylinder jacked out all the way, mine also cut the piston seal so new slave cylinder required. The roll pins are £2 to buy but its gearboxes out I'm afraid. I put a new clutch in while I had it stripped down.
Click to expand...

+1. You'll see where the lever goes through the bell housing. It shouldn't be easy to move but you can probably spin it with your fingers if you disconnect slave.
 
+2.

The 2 Roll pins holding release fork to cross shaft have snapped , as stated above gearbox/transfer box out.


The roll pin and new slave cylinder are cheap as chips.

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-fork-roll-25td-genuine-ftc1692lr-p-32908.html

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-slave-cylinder-anr2967g-p-17944.html

New Clutch possibly....more expensive


http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-delphi-stc50512g-p-112.html

or

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-valeo-stc50512valeo-p-6061.ht





Its the repair/replacement time involved that's the killer...

PS. Has no one produced an after market cross shaft and clutch fork release kit (splined or key way) to over come this problem???
 
Last edited:
zzr1200 said:
PS. Has no one produced an after market cross shaft and clutch fork release kit (splined or key way) to over come this problem???
Click to expand...

Someone on here drilled and tapped bolts but then the thing broke! Cannot remember who it was. Or maybe the person who had the car before him had done it and it broke on him.

I put the remains of a rivet up the inside of mine on refitting. Another guy on here (sorry, terrible memory for names) put a second set of spiral pins up the first set and someone else welded them.

You're probably right though, there's plenty of room in there to have a whole new assembly that is up to the job. I'd buy it!
 
I've got a spare bellhousing that I was thinking of modifying, new pins then tack weld the fork to the pivot shaft. I will have to check what material the fork is made of to see if it's possible. May supply on an exchange basis.
 
Mine had over size pins fitted before I got it, when the shaft broke in half because of them 4 years ago we welded it up, new shaft at the time was close to £200 and on back order as the car was stuck up in the air on my mates ramp welding was the quickest fix.
 
Welding the actuator to the shaft is not the problem. Not being able to normalise the shaft after welding to prevent stress fracturing maybe.
 
wammers said:
Welding the actuator to the shaft is not the problem. Not being able to normalise the shaft after welding to prevent stress fracturing maybe.
Click to expand...

You been on the tintenet again Tony. The amount of weld required would not put a great deal of heat into the shaft using MIG. More stress is placed on the pins IMHO. You been peeping at my arse again?:D:D
 
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