Clutch master cylinder

I've spent the last 4 hours replacing the clutch master cylinder on my 110 td5. Before I started there was fluid running down the pedal but apart from having to top up once a week the clutch was ok but now I barely have any clutch. When I press the pedal tight to the floor I can just about get forward gears but not reverse . I used a Halfords bleeding kit to bleed it and unless I cocked that up somehow I can'nt see what I've done wrong. Anyway its started to rain so I've left it until the morning if its dry. Has anyone got any ideas what I could have missed?
Thanks Jim

Bleed it in the old fashioned way, one person press the pedal smoothly whilst another person opens the bleed nipple, close the nipple and let the pedal up, do this until no air comes out of the bleed nipple.
If you're still having problems after that there is another little dodge that will make absolutely sure there's no air in it, but is a bit awkward with Landrovers because you could dislodge the actuation shaft from the clutch fork if not careful, so you have to do it a different way than with most vehicles.

Bleed the clutch as I've just said, then release the slave cylinder from the bell housing carefully not dislodging the shaft from the clutch fork. Don't undo the pipe etc. now with a long bolt, push the piston in the slave cylinder back in as far as it goes. This is called "back bleeding" and pushes the fluid back through the master cylinder into the reservoir. Refit the slave cylinder to the bell housing and all should be well (hydraulic wise anyway!)

most vehicles you wouldn't need to remove the slave cylinder to do this, just push the piston back does the trick, it's just the problem with the rod to fork connection on Landys.

Thanks for the reply Gafferjim, I sorted it this morning it turned out I needed to adjust the pushrod travel and the pedal hight, a fiddly job to do but it worked . I must have pumped over a liter of fluid through the system yesterday thinking it was not blead properly.