Clutch again.

generaldogsbody · Feb 6, 2014

Fitted a brand new clutch master cylender and a brand new slave cylender,it still will not bleed,Got a mate to pump the pedal by hand,i undid the nipple 1/2 a turn and nothing.Not even air,so i left it open with my finger over the nipple,nothing comes out.What do i do next please.

jamesmartin · Feb 6, 2014

remove pipe from master and bleed there using your finger as a valve

ironhorse · Feb 6, 2014

As James said remove the feed pipe from the master cylinder, block the outlet with your finger, get your helper to gently push the pedal down to expel any air from the master cylinder, then reconnect the pipe and bleed the whole thing, this can be a pain to bleed. Make sure bleed nipple on the slave is upper most when fitted, if after bleeding you are still having trouble getting all the air out I use Easybleed which blows the fluid round with pressure.

biolandy · Feb 7, 2014

Yup eezibleed for me with wheel barrow wheel as air supply

generaldogsbody · Feb 7, 2014

thanks landy lovers.been out and bought an eezibleed.

generaldogsbody · Feb 9, 2014

eezy bleed worked great,but pedal solid,won,t work the clutch.Looks like am gonna have to pay out to get it fixed.Or is there something i can try.

jamesmartin · Feb 9, 2014

if pedal is solid and wont press down ,remove slave and check how far rod protrudes from bellhousing

generaldogsbody · Feb 9, 2014

how far should it protrude.

jamesmartin · Feb 9, 2014

10-15mm ish

generaldogsbody · Feb 9, 2014

I will take it back off tomorrow,if i remmber rightly it did only protrude that mutch.It was very loose and you could pull it out a fair way,not off thou.And you could push it back .In other words ther was plenty of play in and outwards,If it had came off the fork,it would of came out all together would it not.

jamesmartin · Feb 9, 2014

it will be loose and will pull further out but shouldnt go in further

blue beasty · Feb 9, 2014

Should be hardly any play, the rod is only held by a plastic clip and will pull off the lever very easily. Sounds like the rod is either not located or has pushed through the lever which would give a solid pedal as it jams on the bell housing.

generaldogsbody · Feb 9, 2014

YES. sounds about right.garadge job.Thanks everybody.

blue beasty · Feb 9, 2014

generaldogsbody said:
YES. sounds about right.garadge job.Thanks everybody.

Worth whipping off the slave and having a look first. It's possible to relocate the rod through the hole the slave bolts to, bit fiddly but doable. The centre pivot can also wear through the lever which is a gearbox out job but worth checking before you shell out

blue beasty · Feb 9, 2014

What symptoms did you have that led you to changing cylinders in the first place?

generaldogsbody · Feb 9, 2014

Yes i can still see the light,at the end of the tunnel.Thanks.

generaldogsbody · Feb 9, 2014

Clutch just went straight down to the floor,no clangs or noise just lost all preasure.There was no fluid in the master cylender but no signes of fluid leak.So i just decided to replace it and the slave cylender for piece of mind if anything.

blue beasty · Feb 9, 2014

generaldogsbody said:
Clutch just went straight down to the floor,no clangs or noise just lost all preasure.There was no fluid in the master cylender but no signes of fluid leak.So i just decided to replace it and the slave cylender for piece of mind if anything.

Does sound like rod pushed through or pivot worn through fork unlrss anyone else has any other ideas, sorry

Clutch again.

generaldogsbody

Active Member

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

ironhorse

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biolandy

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generaldogsbody

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generaldogsbody

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jamesmartin

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generaldogsbody

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jamesmartin

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generaldogsbody

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jamesmartin

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blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

generaldogsbody

Active Member

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

generaldogsbody

Active Member

generaldogsbody

Active Member

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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