Classic fuel injector hose.
- Thread starter locket
- Start date
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Mine's a 1986 3.5EFi.
The injector end of the hose was just pushed onto barbs on the injector.
Very tight fit.
The thing at the bottom is basically a cupped washer but doesn't clamp the hose.
When you replace the hoses use proper fuel hose clamps (not worm drive jubilee type clamps) at both ends.
To avoid any damage to the barbed part that is the risk with a knife I used a very thin tip on a soldering iron to cut the old hose off the barbs, slice until you get through the reinforcement and they'll come off easily.
Appreciate this link is Jaguar but it covers it pretty well: EFI Hose Connections (jag-lovers.org)
The injector end of the hose was just pushed onto barbs on the injector.
Very tight fit.
The thing at the bottom is basically a cupped washer but doesn't clamp the hose.
When you replace the hoses use proper fuel hose clamps (not worm drive jubilee type clamps) at both ends.
To avoid any damage to the barbed part that is the risk with a knife I used a very thin tip on a soldering iron to cut the old hose off the barbs, slice until you get through the reinforcement and they'll come off easily.
Appreciate this link is Jaguar but it covers it pretty well: EFI Hose Connections (jag-lovers.org)
That is great thank you.
I was very lucky as it split just as I started the car and sprayed petrol everywhere.
I've seen a series of photos from some years ago of a Scimitar (Ford V6 engine) that had the metal fuel inlet pipe pop out of the carb (known fault with a simple cure) and spray fuel onto the top of the engine.
First one showed smoke coming from under the bonnet.
Next couple showed the whole car becoming engulfed in flames
Last one after Fire Brigade had done its work showed the metal parts, chassis, engine, gearbox, axles, wheels (minus tyres which had also burnt) seat frames etc all covered in the glass strands which was all that was left of the grp.
Bit of a
moment and when I checked mine the same pipe was loose!
Probably best to replace them all while you're at it and the parts on the fuel lines.
If it's a flapper AFM once you've clamped everything up and before you put the plenum etc back on switch on the ignition and push the flap open. This will run the pump, pressurise the system, circulate the fuel round the system and back to the tank so you can check all connections are good. Release the flap and the pump will stop.
If it's hotwire I have no idea!
First one showed smoke coming from under the bonnet.
Next couple showed the whole car becoming engulfed in flames
Last one after Fire Brigade had done its work showed the metal parts, chassis, engine, gearbox, axles, wheels (minus tyres which had also burnt) seat frames etc all covered in the glass strands which was all that was left of the grp.
Bit of a
moment and when I checked mine the same pipe was loose!Probably best to replace them all while you're at it and the parts on the fuel lines.
If it's a flapper AFM once you've clamped everything up and before you put the plenum etc back on switch on the ignition and push the flap open. This will run the pump, pressurise the system, circulate the fuel round the system and back to the tank so you can check all connections are good. Release the flap and the pump will stop.
If it's hotwire I have no idea!
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I've seen a series of photos from some years ago of a Scimitar (Ford V6 engine) that had the metal fuel inlet pipe pop out of the carb (known fault with a simple cure) and spray fuel onto the top of the engine.
First one showed smoke coming from under the bonnet.
Next couple showed the whole car becoming engulfed in flames
Last one after Fire Brigade had done its work showed the metal parts, chassis, engine, gearbox, axles, wheels (minus tyres which had also burnt) seat frames etc all covered in the glass strands which was all that was left of the grp.
Bit of a
Probably best to replace them all while you're at it and the parts on the fuel lines.
If it's a flapper AFM once you've clamped everything up and before you put the plenum etc back on switch on the ignition and push the flap open. This will run the pump, pressurise the system, circulate the fuel round the system and back to the tank so you can check all connections are good. Release the flap and the pump will stop.
If it's hotwire I have no idea!
All done and connected up and no leaks. They were a bit tight to remove but I was very careful with a surgical knife. You were correct to change them all, two others were decidedly spongy and would have split soon.
Thank you for the advice. Yes mine is a flapper.
