Chrysler (Dodge) 9.25 differential - anybody been inside of one???

I have a 2WD 2002 RAM1500 truck, with a plain open differential, and I
plan to install a PowerTrax No-Slip. In most cases, these are really
easy to install - you can do it yourself in less than an hour. Again,
that's "in most cases."

The web site is at http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.htm

I'm wondering, though, if my truck is included in that "most." I've
seen the sample instructions online, but they're for a Dana. I have
good mechanical skills, but I've never been inside a differential
before. Would anyone happen to have any experience with the Chrysler
9.25" rear they could share with me? It's the 6-sided one, with 12
bolts.

Many thanks,
Ron M.

On 13 Feb 2004 19:38:53 -0800, [email protected] (Ron M.) wrote:

>:|I have a 2WD 2002 RAM1500 truck, with a plain open differential, and I
>:|plan to install a PowerTrax No-Slip. In most cases, these are really
>:|easy to install - you can do it yourself in less than an hour. Again,
>:|that's "in most cases."
>:|
>:|The web site is at http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.htm
>:|
>:|I'm wondering, though, if my truck is included in that "most." I've
>:|seen the sample instructions online, but they're for a Dana. I have
>:|good mechanical skills, but I've never been inside a differential
>:|before. Would anyone happen to have any experience with the Chrysler
>:|9.25" rear they could share with me? It's the 6-sided one, with 12
>:|bolts.
>:|
>:|Many thanks,
>:|Ron M.

never been inside the aforementioned diff, but if it's like any other
semi floating axle, do the following:

drain fluid and remove cover.
remove tires and brake drums ( may or may not have to do this)
remove cross pin retaining bolt
remove cross pin
push axle flange in towards differential and remove C clip with a
magnet or pick (requires 2 ppl)
repeat for other side.
remove spider gears
install Power trax unit
install C clips
put it all back together.

HTH,
Bret

I really appreciate your help - just two more points, and I'm good to
go:

- What about the differential cover gasket? Do I re-use the one that's
on there, with fresh gasket sealer, or do I need to have a new one
handy?

- I don't have a torque wrench, but I can sufficiently tighten a bolt
or nut by feel with no problems. Is a torque wrench a life-or-death
requirement to do this? I'm thinking in particular of:

.....the pinion shaft retaining bolt
.....the differential cover bolts
.....the bolts holding on the disc brake calipers

Thanks!

Ron M.

On 17 Feb 2004 07:02:38 -0800, [email protected] (Ron M.) wrote:

>:|I really appreciate your help - just two more points, and I'm good to
>:|go:
>:|
>:|- What about the differential cover gasket? Do I re-use the one that's
>:|on there, with fresh gasket sealer, or do I need to have a new one
>:|handy?



I just use RTV and let it set up for 20 mins or so before dumping in
the gear oil, never had a leak.. just remember to clean the surfaces
w/ brake cleaner or denatured alchohol.

>:|
>:| - I don't have a torque wrench, but I can sufficiently tighten a bolt
>:|or nut by feel with no problems. Is a torque wrench a life-or-death
>:|requirement to do this? I'm thinking in particular of:
>:|
>:|....the pinion shaft retaining bolt
>:|....the differential cover bolts
>:|....the bolts holding on the disc brake calipers

go buy or rent one. over torqueing the diffcover WILL make it leak,
overtorquing the crosspin retaining bolt can cause it to snap (the
torque for them is suprisingly low).

the bolts for the calipers usually only need in the 30ftlbs range, but
they're not nearly as sensative to overtorquing.

-Bret

> >:| - I don't have a torque wrench, but I can sufficiently tighten a bolt
> >:|or nut by feel with no problems. Is a torque wrench a life-or-death
> >:|requirement to do this? I'm thinking in particular of:
> >:|
> >:|....the pinion shaft retaining bolt
> >:|....the differential cover bolts
> >:|....the bolts holding on the disc brake calipers
>
> go buy or rent one. over torqueing the diffcover WILL make it leak,
> overtorquing the crosspin retaining bolt can cause it to snap (the
> torque for them is suprisingly low).
>
> the bolts for the calipers usually only need in the 30ftlbs range, but
> they're not nearly as sensative to overtorquing.

Since you guys are so helpful and knowledgeable, would you happen to
know just what the torque specs ARE for those three bolts? I've
scoured the internet, and can't find it anywhere.

Ron M.

On 23 Feb 2004 11:53:22 -0800, [email protected] (Ron M.) wrote:

>:|> >:| - I don't have a torque wrench, but I can sufficiently tighten a bolt
>:|> >:|or nut by feel with no problems. Is a torque wrench a life-or-death
>:|> >:|requirement to do this? I'm thinking in particular of:
>:|> >:|
>:|> >:|....the pinion shaft retaining bolt
>:|> >:|....the differential cover bolts
>:|> >:|....the bolts holding on the disc brake calipers
>:|>
>:|> go buy or rent one. over torqueing the diffcover WILL make it leak,
>:|> overtorquing the crosspin retaining bolt can cause it to snap (the
>:|> torque for them is suprisingly low).
>:|>
>:|> the bolts for the calipers usually only need in the 30ftlbs range, but
>:|> they're not nearly as sensative to overtorquing.
>:|
>:|Since you guys are so helpful and knowledgeable, would you happen to
>:|know just what the torque specs ARE for those three bolts? I've
>:|scoured the internet, and can't find it anywhere.
>:|
>:|Ron M.

go buy a haynes book... they should be listed in it.... on my GM small
14 bolt it's 14lbs for the retaining bolt, 30 on the caliper and 25 -
30 on the cover (from memory... book is in truck)

-Bret

Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
digital camera and put the pics up on a website.

It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
times I think I can do it in my sleep.

Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
"sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
Abyss:

- The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
something, or do they just fall off?

- Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.

- The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
manufacturer's directions.

Ron M.

Exactly what parts do you intend to replace??? Either you have just
forgotten to mention a few tools or you are going to get into real trouble
real fast.

--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving


"Ron M." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
> gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
> torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
> watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
> tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
> digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>
> It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
> you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
> times I think I can do it in my sleep.
>
> Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
> "sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
> Abyss:
>
> - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
> to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
> something, or do they just fall off?
>
> - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
> having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
> cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
> probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
> wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.
>
> - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
> IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
> for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
> seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
> manufacturer's directions.
>
> Ron M.

On 24 Feb 2004 12:07:17 -0800, [email protected] (Ron M.) wrote:

>:|Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
>:|gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
>:|torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
>:|watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
>:|tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
>:|digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>:|
>:|It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
>:|you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
>:|times I think I can do it in my sleep.

this is a piece of cake..... setting up the R&P is where true skills
are required.


>:|
>:|Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
>:|"sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
>:|Abyss:
>:|
>:| - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
>:|to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
>:|something, or do they just fall off?

once you have the crossshaft removed, the C clips will come out very
easily with a bent pick or a telescoping magnet. don't forget to have
someone push in on the axle shaft.


>:|
>:| - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
>:|having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
>:|cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
>:|probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
>:|wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.


nah.... just wait 20-30 mins before you dump the lube in. the 24hrs is
for a full cure
>:|
>:| - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
>:|IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
>:|for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
>:|seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
>:|manufacturer's directions.
>:|
>:|Ron M.


in my experience, the first side will skin over sufficiently during
the time it takes to put the RTV on the second.


-Bret

"Ron M." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
> gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
> torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
> watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
> tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
> digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>
> It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
> you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
> times I think I can do it in my sleep.
>
> Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
> "sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
> Abyss:
>
> - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
> to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
> something, or do they just fall off?
>
> - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
> having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
> cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
> probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
> wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.
>
> - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
> IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
> for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
> seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
> manufacturer's directions.
>
> Ron M.

For gasketed parts, I prefer Permatex "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" -- I use RTV
only when I need to fill a void. I got that tip from my machinist, who's
been at it "since dirt was new".
Bryan

"Bryan Swadener" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4ZU_b.117745$jk2.509822@attbi_s53...
>
> "Ron M." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
> > gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
> > torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
> > watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
> > tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
> > digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
> >
> > It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
> > you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
> > times I think I can do it in my sleep.
> >
> > Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
> > "sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
> > Abyss:
> >
> > - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
> > to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
> > something, or do they just fall off?
> >
> > - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
> > having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
> > cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
> > probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
> > wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.
> >
> > - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
> > IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
> > for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
> > seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
> > manufacturer's directions.
> >
> > Ron M.
>
> For gasketed parts, I prefer Permatex "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" -- I use
RTV
> only when I need to fill a void. I got that tip from my machinist, who's
> been at it "since dirt was new".
> Bryan
>

Red must be your machinist!! <G>

(holds up forefinger, eyes bug out)

And now... THE LAST QUESTION!!!

(Hooray!! the crowd roars...)

I was just looking at the brake calipers, to see the two bolts I need
to loosen to remove them. One each caliper, there are two kinds of
bolts.

One sort of sticks up an inch or so, and has a flexible (like an
accordion) rubber sleeve. The other is way out on the end. It looks
like about a 3/4" bolt head, and is pretty flat - it doesn't really
stick out or anything.

Which ones hold the calipers on?

Ron M.