Chevy Blazer Broken/Stuck Bulb in Rear Right Tail Light

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S

Spiderman

Guest
The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not working
on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the applicable 2057 bulb
(dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb just broke right
off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket. I tried to remove
the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat screwdriver, etc.) but it would
not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume I'm gonna have to replace the
whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing the entire
cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?


 
"Spiderman"> wrote
> The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not working
> on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the applicable 2057
> bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb just broke right
> off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket. I tried to
> remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat screwdriver, etc.) but
> it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume I'm gonna have to
> replace the whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing the
> entire cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?

Use a pair of needle nose pliers, or dikes, and tear the base of the bulb
out of the socket piece by piece.
Sometimes you can twist the base back out of the socket with the pliers.


 

"Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Spiderman"> wrote
>> The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not
>> working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the
>> applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb just
>> broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket. I
>> tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat screwdriver,
>> etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume I'm gonna
>> have to replace the whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing
>> the entire cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?
>
> Use a pair of needle nose pliers, or dikes, and tear the base of the bulb
> out of the socket piece by piece.
> Sometimes you can twist the base back out of the socket with the pliers.

I tried that and was able to tear out some pieces of the base...assuming I
can't get it all out (or try TOO hard and bust the socket itself), is the
socket easy to replace? I would like to avoid splicing wires (although I
have a friend who can help with that) if at all possible. Thanks for your
help...this is driving me nuts!


 
"Spiderman"wrote in message: "The rear right (passenger side) brake light &
turn signal were not working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to
replace the applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old
bulb just broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the
socket. I tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat
screwdriver, etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume
I'm gonna have to replace the
whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing the entire
cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?"

I had a similar problem with a 2000 C2500 tail lamp. The socket was
replaceable. I was able to get it at NAPA auto [arts cheaper then the
dealership. I tried just changing the bulb after removing the corrode bulb
but it would not work properly. It would go on and off with every bump I
hit in the road. I think the lamp assembly cost around 32.00 dollars.


Sarge


 
On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 06:24:57 UTC "Spiderman" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
> "Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Spiderman"> wrote
> >> The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not
> >> working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the
> >> applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb just
> >> broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket. I
> >> tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat screwdriver,
> >> etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume I'm gonna
> >> have to replace the whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing
> >> the entire cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?
> >
> > Use a pair of needle nose pliers, or dikes, and tear the base of the bulb
> > out of the socket piece by piece.
> > Sometimes you can twist the base back out of the socket with the pliers.
>
> I tried that and was able to tear out some pieces of the base...assuming I
> can't get it all out (or try TOO hard and bust the socket itself), is the
> socket easy to replace? I would like to avoid splicing wires (although I
> have a friend who can help with that) if at all possible. Thanks for your
> help...this is driving me nuts!

Make that a BIG flat bladed screwdriver! Push/pound it in as you turn
to grind all the filler out (they usualy give up and come out about
the time you get to the bottom), then use an icepick or a thin
screwdriver to collapse the wall of the bulb inward until you can grab
it with the needle nose pliers. Turn counterclockwise as you dig it
out so that it will loosen if it gives. Once you get it out, use some
fine emory cloth to clean out the obviously corroded socket and
contacts. I usually pack the socket about half full of dielectric
grease so that it squeezes out as I insert the new bulb - keeps
water/air out and (despite the name) doesn't keep the contacts from
making connection but it sure makes getting it out the next time a
heck of a lot easier and it will stop the corrosion problem.

--
Will Honea
 

"Sarge" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Spiderman"wrote in message: "The rear right (passenger side) brake light
> &
> turn signal were not working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to
> replace the applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old
> bulb just broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the
> socket. I tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat
> screwdriver, etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume
> I'm gonna have to replace the
> whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing the entire
> cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?"
>
> I had a similar problem with a 2000 C2500 tail lamp. The socket was
> replaceable. I was able to get it at NAPA auto [arts cheaper then the
> dealership. I tried just changing the bulb after removing the corrode
> bulb
> but it would not work properly. It would go on and off with every bump I
> hit in the road. I think the lamp assembly cost around 32.00 dollars.
>
>
> Sarge

Does the socket just pop off of the wiring? I pulled back one of the corners
and there appeared to be a "peanut buttery" grease smeared all over the
inside so I left it alone. I assume this goo is to keep out water/air
(didn't seem to help in this case hehe).... Did you replace the goo or
just stick the socket right back on to the existing goo? $32 sounds like a
lot for just a socket?
>


 

"Will Honea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 06:24:57 UTC "Spiderman" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> "Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > "Spiderman"> wrote
>> >> The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not
>> >> working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the
>> >> applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb
>> >> just
>> >> broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket.
>> >> I
>> >> tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat
>> >> screwdriver,
>> >> etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume I'm gonna
>> >> have to replace the whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without
>> >> replacing
>> >> the entire cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?
>> >
>> > Use a pair of needle nose pliers, or dikes, and tear the base of the
>> > bulb
>> > out of the socket piece by piece.
>> > Sometimes you can twist the base back out of the socket with the
>> > pliers.
>>
>> I tried that and was able to tear out some pieces of the base...assuming
>> I
>> can't get it all out (or try TOO hard and bust the socket itself), is the
>> socket easy to replace? I would like to avoid splicing wires (although I
>> have a friend who can help with that) if at all possible. Thanks for your
>> help...this is driving me nuts!
>
> Make that a BIG flat bladed screwdriver! Push/pound it in as you turn
> to grind all the filler out (they usualy give up and come out about
> the time you get to the bottom), then use an icepick or a thin
> screwdriver to collapse the wall of the bulb inward until you can grab
> it with the needle nose pliers. Turn counterclockwise as you dig it
> out so that it will loosen if it gives. Once you get it out, use some
> fine emory cloth to clean out the obviously corroded socket and
> contacts. I usually pack the socket about half full of dielectric
> grease so that it squeezes out as I insert the new bulb - keeps
> water/air out and (despite the name) doesn't keep the contacts from
> making connection but it sure makes getting it out the next time a
> heck of a lot easier and it will stop the corrosion problem.
>

Would spraying in some WD40 first help to loosen up the stuck shards or just
make a bigger mess?


 
Won't hurt. Won't cause long term damage. Might help...

If the socket is in good condition, you can clean it up and should be
OK. As suggested by others, use contact grease in the socket to help
prevent this from happening again. Fix the leak! <g> Get a new gasket
from the dealer if necessary.

On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 03:42:41 -0500, "Spiderman"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>Would spraying in some WD40 first help to loosen up the stuck shards or just
>make a bigger mess?

 

"Spiderman" wrote in message: "Does the socket just pop off of the wiring? I
pulled back one of the corners
and there appeared to be a "peanut buttery" grease smeared all over the
inside so I left it alone. I assume this goo is to keep out water/air
(didn't seem to help in this case hehe).... Did you replace the goo or
just stick the socket right back on to the existing goo? $32 sounds like a
lot for just a socket?"

On my truck the wiring harness plugged into a plastic housing. The housing
contained the socket. The lens and lens gasket can also be purchased. I am
not sure if that is the same design as a 2000 Chevy C2500.

Sarge





 

"Sarge" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Spiderman" wrote in message: "Does the socket just pop off of the wiring?
I
> pulled back one of the corners
> and there appeared to be a "peanut buttery" grease smeared all over the
> inside so I left it alone. I assume this goo is to keep out water/air
> (didn't seem to help in this case hehe).... Did you replace the goo or
> just stick the socket right back on to the existing goo? $32 sounds like a
> lot for just a socket?"
>
> On my truck the wiring harness plugged into a plastic housing. The
housing
> contained the socket. The lens and lens gasket can also be purchased. I
am
> not sure if that is the same design as a 2000 Chevy C2500.
>
> Sarge

His '87 uses a socket that plugs into the housing assembly. NAPA, AutoZone
most all parts store will have replacement sockets usually under $5 but they
all require three splices, you have to cut the wires going to the old one.
The best way is to slide shrink tubing up the wire, then solder the splice
and then slide the shrink tubing down over the repair after it cools and
heat shrink it. Repeat on the remaining wires. AutoZone had some supposed
weather proof crimp style splice connectors last time I was in, but I have
never used them.
And yes pack the socket full of dielectric grease before inserting the bulb.
More than likely the housing has a crack in it and that's how water is
getting in.
Whitelightning


 

"Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Spiderman"> wrote
>> The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not
>> working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the
>> applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb just
>> broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket. I
>> tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat screwdriver,
>> etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume I'm gonna
>> have to replace the whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing
>> the entire cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?
>
> Use a pair of needle nose pliers, or dikes, and tear the base of the bulb
> out of the socket piece by piece.
> Sometimes you can twist the base back out of the socket with the pliers.


I was able to remove the remnant of the bulb with a pair of needle nose
pliers. A small piece of the plastic tab on the outside of the socket (that
holds the socket inside the hole in the tail light case) broke off so I used
some super-sticky duct tape to hold the "twist" onto the tail light case. In
the process of removing the old bulb I must have blown a fuse because the
tail and dash lights were not working (safety feature to blow out the dash
when tail lights fail?)...replaced the Tail Light fuse and now everything is
A-OK! Oh what a wonderful feeling....my old truck is well again!


 

"Spiderman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Spiderman"> wrote
>>> The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not
>>> working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the
>>> applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb just
>>> broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket. I
>>> tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat
>>> screwdriver, etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I
>>> assume I'm gonna have to replace the whole 2057 socket? Can this be done
>>> without replacing the entire cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?
>>
>> Use a pair of needle nose pliers, or dikes, and tear the base of the bulb
>> out of the socket piece by piece.
>> Sometimes you can twist the base back out of the socket with the pliers.
>
>
> I was able to remove the remnant of the bulb with a pair of needle nose
> pliers. A small piece of the plastic tab on the outside of the socket
> (that holds the socket inside the hole in the tail light case) broke off
> so I used some super-sticky duct tape to hold the "twist" onto the tail
> light case. In the process of removing the old bulb I must have blown a
> fuse because the tail and dash lights were not working (safety feature to
> blow out the dash when tail lights fail?)...replaced the Tail Light fuse
> and now everything is A-OK! Oh what a wonderful feeling....my old truck is
> well again!

Hopefully you swept up all the glass shards in the driveway. heh-heh


 
Yes, it is a safety feature, done intentionally for just that reason.

Good to hear you got it out. You might be able to make a better fix
than duct tape by using JB Weld. It lives up to the promises quite
well! <g>

On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 20:26:22 -0500, "Spiderman"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> (safety feature to blow out the dash when tail lights fail?)..
 
I've got a Samurai with the same problem. It's kinda funny though- one of my
turn signals quit working a while ago, so I took off the light cover, only
to discover grass growing in the turn-signal. I think I spent too much time
stuck in the mud. I hate to think what other parts of the Sammy could have
mud and grass in them....

-Will


 
Any chance that what you thought was grass was really rice shoots? :)


"Will" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got a Samurai with the same problem. It's kinda funny though- one of
my
> turn signals quit working a while ago, so I took off the light cover, only
> to discover grass growing in the turn-signal. I think I spent too much
time
> stuck in the mud. I hate to think what other parts of the Sammy could have
> mud and grass in them....
>
> -Will
>
>


 
Hahaha! (ROFL)

"Silver Surfer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Any chance that what you thought was grass was really rice shoots? :)
>
>
> "Will" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've got a Samurai with the same problem. It's kinda funny though- one
of
> my
> > turn signals quit working a while ago, so I took off the light cover,
only
> > to discover grass growing in the turn-signal. I think I spent too much
> time
> > stuck in the mud. I hate to think what other parts of the Sammy could
have
> > mud and grass in them....
> >
> > -Will
> >
> >
>
>


 
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