Chassis/underpinnings rust treatment

We bought a mid-80s 90 recently, after hunting around for a while. Not perfect condition, but not bad. I think she’s had money spent in the past - chassis seems in good nick and had a 200TDI dropped in at some point. I’m not sure the last owners were kind to her though - lived outside, not sure they did much preventative maintenance. So there’s a bit of rust, not all of which appeared structural, and the plan was to use her and gradually catch up on some of the issues. She at least has a garage to live in now.

I say APPEARED because the near side trailing arm axle bracket snapped while on a slightly bumpy farm track at the weekend More rust than actual metal, it seems. Recovered by the helpful AA from a scenic lay-by so could have been a lot worse! She’s at the local 4x4 place now, where hopefully tomorrow they’ll tell me it’s just a welding job…

Anyway… I don’t want to talk about the axle bracket much. That is what it is. But it’s shown I need to step up my plan of getting underneath, getting dirty with a wire wheel, making sure everything else is in good order, and painting the whole lot up.

I know this comes up a lot, but it’s 2021 and links from posts in 2009 etc don’t always work very well. So: in 2021 what’s the recommended rust kill/converter, primer, topcoat etc?

I’ve had someone suggest I should Dinitrol everything, so bonus points for paints etc that work well with that or waxoyl I guess, or do they just go on over the top?

Wow, no-one? I figured everyone would have an opinion on this topic

I am currently refurbing a '73 Military 109 and intend using red oxide primer and black agricultural paint from this lot: https://www.paints4trade.com/
for the chassis, and undercoat and military satin stuff for the body,. Can't say yet how effective they are as I am still at the prep stage, but might be worth a look.

They don't communicate very well....or indeed at all.....but I will see what the paint is like before condemning or praising.

MiddleAgedDirtBag said:

I’ve had someone suggest I should Dinitrol everything

Click to expand...

This is good advice - if the item is in good condition, and with minimal rust. Forget Waxoyl - it has been made safe for the "public" to use, and IME is now a very poor product. Bilt Hamber do excellent products too, in fact I tend to use more of BH's stuff than Dinitrol, but I reckon they are pretty much equivalent - you get what you pay for - a search on here for either name should show up some interesting reading...

Rust really needs to be removed, - search Phosphoric acid - but this can be awkward, 'specially inside a chassis - which is where the issue starts, and quite often ends.....

Sometimes, you can only use a converter due access issues, and I use Fertan, which needs water to work, and I really like the irony....

Bonda primer is excellent stuff too - and Tractol paints are a firm favourite of mine ... here's a piccie of the underside of my D1 following sandblasting, priming and painting - a lot of work, but I hate rust, so ....

Have a read of this thread
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/best-paint-over-fresh-weld.370974/

That Bonda primer sounds like the dog’s danglies. Guess that’s one decision made then

I’m just doing the rear axle on my series, I’m using the POR15 system it has a lot of steps but a good end result and chip resistant

1 remove loose rust and scale
2 POR15 cleaner degreaser
3 POR 15 metal prep … this converts the rust
4 2 coats anti rust primer
5 2 coats top coat black

NB you need to be meticulous in handling the paint get it on the tin lid you won’t get it off again so scoop out into 2nd container and wipe tin rim if any on
Let it dry on hands and it will come off after 3 days when skin replaced
The black top coat esp gets thicker in tin after use , thinners would be better

I did the front axle in 2018 and it’s still nice and shiny under the grunge