is this it?
Good lad ....
Remember, FIRST blast on clear timing marks NOW before you undo anything!
These will be YOUR timing marks.
Scribe good marks on the pump flange and the timing cover casing so you can always get back to where you are now. That's the worst it can get.
You do NOT need to pin the pump, lock the flywheel or any of that stuff for this job. You only need to do that when timing the pump from "first principles" and you are not doing that. You are "fine tuning" the timing, and that is a process that is NEVER undertaken by the engine makers or service dealers. They don't care about you, their fitters don't have the skills, and they won't be driving the cars, so why would they bother?
They just set all engines to fixed marks, and send them out. This means that some will be OK, some a bit better, and some really lousy. They just don't care.
But you have the time, the inclination and the incentive ..... so GO ! You might be amazed how well you can get your motor running if you sort the timing out exactly right for YOUR engine.
After you have marked the pump and casing, sort out the spanners you will need. Carry them with you in a wee bag.
Every time you make any adjustment, you will be rotating the whole injection pump about 1 to 2 mm on the flange one way or the other. Try to move it in small steps about that much each time.
You MUST loosen all 4 injector pipes at BOTH ENDS, just enough to let the pipes move a tad, and then loosen the three pump flange nuts just enough to let the pump move. There may also be a longer nut and bolt to loosen at the bracket to the rear of the pump. DO NOT loosen any more than you need to. Move the pump as required, and it should move easily. Check the marks are now 1 to 2mm apart, and clamp the three pump flange nuts snugly. Don't over-tighten them. Now nip up the injection pipes at the bottom end, and whirl the motor over on the starter till fuel spits at each injector pipe end. Tighten at the injector pipes. Start up, and test drive.
When the engine is warm, deck the pedal at low revs and you will know instantly if the clatter is cured. If it is, you will probably find that the engine goes a lot better than before. If it still clatters, it will be less, so repeat the adjustment. The nearer you get to "feeling good", make smaller moves of the pump.
To ADVANCE the timing move the top of the pump TOWARDS the engine.
To RETARD the timing move the top of the pump AWAY FROM the engine.
If the engine clatters loudly when you deck the pedal, RETARD the timing a little. ONE move of 2mm could easily be enough to do it.
Basically, what you want is the engine timing set JUST before the clatter starts, by the smallest amount. Generally that will be the best setting for power and economy, and many of you may be pleasantly surprised at the outcome if you try this. It might just take you half a dozen sessions, small moves at a time, but it will be worth it.
How about you rush out and do this and let us all know how it pans out?
CharlesY
