changed the release bearing and still got same problem HELP PURLEEEEESE!

right where do i start?

the clutch fork snapped about 6 weeks ago, so me an the brother in law took out the engine an put a complete new AP driveline (bork & becker) clutch and welded a 5mm plate to the new clutch fork, all from paddocks.
after fitting all seemed fine on the way home, next day when i started the disco (300tdi by the way) foot on clutch, in neutral, there was a knocking when i put my foot down on the clutch, and changing gear at revs above 2250 revs it made a rumbbling noise, as the weeks have gone on the rumbbling got louder as did the knocking.
it sounds like the big end bearing, when that knocks!

went to paddocks an asked if they had any problems with these clutch kits, told him what was wrong, an bob gave me a new release bearing,

fitted it today.
the only thing i did notice was a slight bit of play in the gear box main shaft, but only about 3-5mm of play either way, the release bearing we put in last time seemed fine, no play at all.

put the engine back in started it up, lovely an quiet, no knocking at all an no rumble,
on the way home the rumble came back but not quite so loud an it still knocks with the clutch peddle depressed.
and there is also now some quite bad clutch judder
me and the brother in law think it's either a **** clutch kit, gear box main shaft bearing or the crank shaft bearing.

have you any ideas as what to change next?
i'm loosing the will with land rovers an if it don't go right next time its time for plan g32, an that is get rid of the disco an buy a car or the dreaded slitty, which i don't want either
so tools out AGAIN an fingers crossed

Well im no expert on boxes but 3-5mm p-lay either side makes 6-10mm that sonds like a lot to me.

Did yu change the flywheel bearing, coz that locates the gearbox input shaft? If that is worn badly it will allow the input shaft to rattle around like buggery, with corresponding noises and clutch judder. Cheap and easy to change.
Get a noo one. Remove the old one by packing it with grease and hammering a bolt into the centre hole- the grease will push the bearing out.
Before you fit the new one, check if it is a sintered bearing and if so put it on ya cooker in a pot of engine oil, heat it up until the oil is almost boiling and watch for air bubbles escaping from the bush. When no more air escapes, allow to cool, remove from oil, dry off and fit.

cheers daft!
an no i din't change the fly wheel bearing but will fit new genuine clutch an fly wheel bearing.

I dont want to offend (trying to be as tactful as possible here) but what side did you weld the 5mm plate to? I have seen it on TWO occasions welded to the same side as the push rod and this kept a slight pressure on thrust bearing and simply wore the bearing out in a couple of days?

Sorry if that sounded a bit condescending but a friend of mine once complained of sqeaky brakes, I gave him the usual 'copper slip on the pad back plate' advice and he nearly crashed his car as he had put it on the friction face, now I do not rule anything out!!

So apologies if need be,

regards

Dave