Central lock

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mikkre

Member
Posts
81
Hi All Guys!
The question now is the central locking problem in my car RR p38 1996 4.6
HSE. When I bought the car, the central locking only worked with the key. I
don't have any Fob or Eka information. I have browsed the forums on the
subject. All deal with the codes needed by the current locking system, which I
don't have.
Now I'm asking, has anyone installed a universal model remote control in the
system? The remote control of the doors would be enough for me.
I have gotten a new lock for the driver's door because the door locks "dance"
from time to time, as they say on the forums. Likewise, I've read warnings about
continuous use of the key, the microswitches in the lock might be damaged?
On the other hand, without knowing the system in more detail, it is easy to think
that it doesn't matter how the lock works, the same function always?
So now I ask again: Does anyone have a diagram or an explanation of how to
connect the universal central locking controller to this car?
B.R.erkki
 
Probably the RF receiver has been unplugged - under the rear passenger shelf on the driver's side. Dancing locks could be RF interference, a sticky rod in the door or a loose wire somewhere. You need gen 3 receiver or Brain's 2 fob trick. After that, unlock the car with the key. Press fob to lock, then lock with the key. Press fob to unlock then unlock with the key. Repeat. If the RF receiver is unplugged you'll need to hold the key next to the small aerial stuck to the rear quarterlight window.
 
I forgot to mention: the remote control is broken, the battery holder is completely missing, so it is not possible to install the battery unless you solder the battery...
The RF receiver is in place with the blue wire as well.
I know it won't look good if I wanted to make a change with a universal controller, but functionality is the most important thing...
 
Thanks for the answer! I live in Finland, so doing business abroad is time-consuming. Have to seriously consider this possibility.
Question: Is the Rf receiver just a radio-controlled on-off switch.
It seems to take 3 wires + a blue antenna wire.
Does it only turn on the 12v voltage for a while?
 
mikkre said:
I forgot to mention: the remote control is broken, the battery holder is completely missing, so it is not possible to install the battery unless you solder the battery...
The RF receiver is in place with the blue wire as well.
I know it won't look good if I wanted to make a change with a universal controller, but functionality is the most important thing...
Click to expand...
You can purchase a new blank key fob off ebay and swap your insides over. May just have to make a little strip to fit into battery holder for battery connections
 
mikkre said:
Thanks for the answer! I live in Finland, so doing business abroad is time-consuming. Have to seriously consider this possibility.
Question: Is the Rf receiver just a radio-controlled on-off switch.
It seems to take 3 wires + a blue antenna wire.
Does it only turn on the 12v voltage for a while?
Click to expand...

It is on all the time. Unplug it if your fob is broken.

Yours will be the GEMS engine (Lucas) and is more integrated with the BECM than the diesel or the THOR.
 
mikkre said:
Hi All Guys!
The question now is the central locking problem in my car RR p38 1996 4.6
HSE. When I bought the car, the central locking only worked with the key. I
don't have any Fob or Eka information. I have browsed the forums on the
subject. All deal with the codes needed by the current locking system, which I
don't have.
Now I'm asking, has anyone installed a universal model remote control in the
system? The remote control of the doors would be enough for me.
I have gotten a new lock for the driver's door because the door locks "dance"
from time to time, as they say on the forums. Likewise, I've read warnings about
continuous use of the key, the microswitches in the lock might be damaged?
On the other hand, without knowing the system in more detail, it is easy to think
that it doesn't matter how the lock works, the same function always?
So now I ask again: Does anyone have a diagram or an explanation of how to
connect the universal central locking controller to this car?
B.R.erkki
Click to expand...
A universal central locking controller will not help as it will not send the needed rolling code to the BECM. Continuous use of the key does not damage the micro switches but the lever on the end of the lock barrel can break off.
Best splash out on a proper FOB if you want remote locking.
A sticky lock mechanism where the hook goes over the bar on the B post can, as I have just found, give the impression of faulty micro switches, a good does of lubricant fixed both mine.
 
Before I owned this car, it had been sitting outside unused for 10 years. Now that I've been using it for a year after quite extensive repair work, all the same faults that are asked about on the forums have appeared. Mostly electrical issues. most recently, the battery draining in a few days to undervoltage, which gave an incorrect error code crankshaft position sensor failure. The fault disappeared after charging the battery and the car started. This emptying has yet to be clarified, I haven't had time to look into it. As new mechanically, some degree of differential whine at approx. 60km/h speed. Apparently rust accumulated on the gears above the oil level. (I changed all the oils immediately after commissioning).
May I ask what lube you used on the lock? On mine, the outside handle on the driver's side was very tight to open the door. I sprayed it with gun oil and it improved considerably, not quite as sensitive as the other door handles.
And yes: I'm unplugging the RF receiver for the time being...
 
mikkre said:
Before I owned this car, it had been sitting outside unused for 10 years. Now that I've been using it for a year after quite extensive repair work, all the same faults that are asked about on the forums have appeared. Mostly electrical issues. most recently, the battery draining in a few days to undervoltage, which gave an incorrect error code crankshaft position sensor failure. The fault disappeared after charging the battery and the car started. This emptying has yet to be clarified, I haven't had time to look into it. As new mechanically, some degree of differential whine at approx. 60km/h speed. Apparently rust accumulated on the gears above the oil level. (I changed all the oils immediately after commissioning).
May I ask what lube you used on the lock? On mine, the outside handle on the driver's side was very tight to open the door. I sprayed it with gun oil and it improved considerably, not quite as sensitive as the other door handles.
And yes: I'm unplugging the RF receiver for the time being...
Click to expand...
I actually used chain saw chain oil on the hook part of the lock after first giving it a flush with penetrating oil. It cured the "door not closed" message and the occasional failure to lock/unlock from the FOB.
Stiff door handles are common. The most used one being the one that is worst.
 
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