CAV pump info for oneten 2,5 n/a

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Holmkiern

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Sweden
Hi,
I tried to solve the diesel leakage on ingoing shaft on the CAV pump on my oneten,1987
After I have changed seals and also changed to double seal on shaft,the car only goes in idling (no responce when putting foot on accerator)and I have got something wrong when putting cover/shafts in place. Have now tried twice.
Anyone out there that has experienced same issue and solved it or anyone with picture how it is supposed to be inside?

Thanks.
Best regards/Johnny
 
On the TDI engines, the Banjo bolt holes are different, larger port is flow, smaller is return. I mixed them up once on my 200tdi and it did exactly what yours is doing.
I don't know if the NAD has the different Banjo ports though.
 
On the TDI engines, the Banjo bolt holes are different, larger port is flow, smaller is return. I mixed them up once on my 200tdi and it did exactly what yours is doing.
I don't know if the NAD has the different Banjo ports though.

There are only in and out and lines lenght makes it impossible to switch. No banjos either.
Thanks anyway.
 
There are only in and out and lines lenght makes it impossible to switch. No banjos either.
Thanks anyway.
Different injection pump. CAV pump has vertical screw in unions, with a brass olive on the plastic fuel pipe, and a brass stiffener inside.
Pump on Tdi is a Bosch pump.

If that was mine, I would just remove the pump using my pulley holding tool, and take the pump to an injection specialist to get it sorted out.
If the pump is very worn, it may need a full recondition, which in the UK would cost several hundred pounds minimum for a decent job.
If you do get the pump reconditioned, it is worth servicing the injectors as well, a better pump shows up leaky nozzles.

If your budget doesn't run to that, there are plenty of second hand pumps cheap on ebay and various other websites.
 
Agree if it would have been a worn pump but my defender has been used as a fire truck earlier so it has not runned so many km.
I have now worked on this car during 2 years sorting out issues and was hoping to solve this and be able to drive a bit and don't spend 500 pounds on a pump when I got seal kit and just need to understand positions of shafts inside.
But maybe I end up in new pump/renovate anyway.
 
Agree if it would have been a worn pump but my defender has been used as a fire truck earlier so it has not runned so many km.
I have now worked on this car during 2 years sorting out issues and was hoping to solve this and be able to drive a bit and don't spend 500 pounds on a pump when I got seal kit and just need to understand positions of shafts inside.
But maybe I end up in new pump/renovate anyway.
Sometimes low mileage can cause problems of it's own, seals sometimes stick to a shaft when a vehicle is stationary for long periods, and damage the lip of the seal on re-start.
However, if you have already changed the seal, that may not have been the case.
As far as I can remember, there is only one shaft in that pump, and that is the one that runs through the middle of it.
The main problem people experience with working on the pumps themselves is failure to re-assemble properly, or that contamination enters the critical areas of the pump during disassembly or re-assembly. Just a few specks of grit or lint inside the pump can cause damage.
Another problem is that unless you have a test rig for the pumps, you don't really know if you have been successful or not until you have put the pump back on the engine.
 
Sometimes low mileage can cause problems of it's own, seals sometimes stick to a shaft when a vehicle is stationary for long periods, and damage the lip of the seal on re-start.
However, if you have already changed the seal, that may not have been the case.
As far as I can remember, there is only one shaft in that pump, and that is the one that runs through the middle of it.
The main problem people experience with working on the pumps themselves is failure to re-assemble properly, or that contamination enters the critical areas of the pump during disassembly or re-assembly. Just a few specks of grit or lint inside the pump can cause damage.
Another problem is that unless you have a test rig for the pumps, you don't really know if you have been successful or not until you have put the pump back on the engine.
Well, I tried to cut some corners and change seals in pump in car but..
There are 3 shafts,one is ingoing from wire,acc. Just in corner of lid, 1 is to be in slot in a fork inside pump,third is is to control inside pump also and is connected with a spring to bracket for acc. Shaft.
 
Well, I tried to cut some corners and change seals in pump in car but..
There are 3 shafts,one is ingoing from wire,acc. Just in corner of lid, 1 is to be in slot in a fork inside pump,third is is to control inside pump also and is connected with a spring to bracket for acc. Shaft.
We would call those linkages, not shafts.
And we would call the "lid" the Governor Housing.
Not sure what you mean by "wire acc." ?

You are obviously not talking about the seal on the main rotary shaft through the pump? No way you could access that with the pump on the engine.
Do you mean the seal where the throttle shaft goes the governor housing cover? Simple O ring, that usually works, if not, you need to get a new governor housing, they are only about 20 quid from Delphi, I think.
 
We would call those linkages, not shafts.
And we would call the "lid" the Governor Housing.
Not sure what you mean by "wire acc." ?

You are obviously not talking about the seal on the main rotary shaft through the pump? No way you could access that with the pump on the engine.
Do you mean the seal where the throttle shaft goes the governor housing cover? Simple O ring, that usually works, if not, you need to get a new governor housing, they are only about 20 quid from Delphi, I think.

Yes,you are right,main issue was leakage from governor housing and shaft. That is not an issue anymore.
After reassembly moving ingoing shaft to accelerate,shaft move but still idle and no increase in rev. I must have got something wrong inside pump and that is why I ask if anyone got pictures outside/inside govenor housing showing linkages.
Wire was from acc pedal. English is not my main language and that is why I might use wrong words.☺
 
Yes,you are right,main issue was leakage from governor housing and shaft. That is not an issue anymore.
After reassembly moving ingoing shaft to accelerate,shaft move but still idle and no increase in rev. I must have got something wrong inside pump and that is why I ask if anyone got pictures outside/inside govenor housing showing linkages.
Wire was from acc pedal. English is not my main language and that is why I might use wrong words.☺

Not a problem. But to diagnose technical problems, the terms are important. :)
In English, we would say accelerator cable.

I don't have any pictures with me, I do have a spare pump, but it isn't near where I am at the moment.

I would try google search, use terms like "CAV injection pump governor housing removed".
You might well find there is a Youtube video of someone doing the seal replacement, or just taking a pump apart for interest.
 
Not a problem. But to diagnose technical problems, the terms are important. :)
In English, we would say accelerator cable.

I don't have any pictures with me, I do have a spare pump, but it isn't near where I am at the moment.

I would try google search, use terms like "CAV injection pump governor housing removed".
You might well find there is a Youtube video of someone doing the seal replacement, or just taking a pump apart for interest.

Thanks,I will try that again. I saw one movie on youtube but did not give me more info.
 
Thanks,I will try that again. I saw one movie on youtube but did not give me more info.
Quite a while since I took one of those apart, but from memory, it is pretty simple.
The main linkage has a sort of fork on the end, which goes over the pin that moves the slip ring inside the pump, and there is a spring that clips into a hole in the linkage, and over another peg.
 
Might be simple but I was able to make it wrong.
I asked the place where I bought the repair kit from and maybe they send me something so I can sort it out.
 
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