Archangel
New Member
- Posts
- 17
- Location
- Jersey, Channel Islands
Whilst I know that there are a few sites discussing what to look for when buying a P38, and whilst I also accept that this site is, for the majority the place to come when things are going/have gone wrong !!!, I thought I would put some suggestions forwards that I have found over time and hope that, for the newbies or new buyers, this may be of help. This site was a great help to me when i first began looking so please feel free to add to this or offer additional suggestions.
The Usual Precautions
When buying a used Range Rover, many of the same considerations apply as when purchasing any other used vehicle. The overriding priority is to make sure the vehicle has had its scheduled maintenance performed; the owner's manual should be stamped to prove this. Do all the usual checks such as looking underneath to see if there are any leaks; if there are not, all fluids must be empty!! (Just kidding).
The P38's are just as subject to leaks as the Classic models. Coolant leaks are not uncommon, including thermostat housing, hose leaks. Head gasket leaks seem to be especially common on the later model years. Popular oil leak points include the crankcase pan and the pinion seals. There were several recall campaigns on the earlier models, including one to address coolant leak problems; make sure the work was done. See if the Message Center indicates any faults when you turn on the ignition; this gives a good indication as to whether all the electrical and electronic features are operating. Make sure all the electric door locks work. Check the function of the air suspension and climate control. For the latter, just punch the "Auto" button and set the desired temperature, making sure the system heats or cools properly.
And other stuff....
V8 engines. Cylinder liners can work loose and cylinder blocks can crack (especially on the 4.6-litre). If rad hoses feel really solid with engine running, this excess pressure is a clue
Diesel engines. Head gaskets can fail. Look for a tide mark in the expansion tank
Air-suspension control. Does the air suspension reach its highest setting without struggling. Also ensure its sitting level
Air-suspension units. If they leak the pump works overtime and eventually fails. It should rise from middle to highest setting in two minutes or less.
Air-suspension valve block and pump. Air suspension valves stick, then air is not directed to the suspension unit, which needs it. Pump sticker shows month/year of manufacture. Has it been replaced? Was a suspension unit changed too?
Door locks. Radio transmitters have been known to trigger locks and alarms. Locks switch repeatedly and burn out and the battery is flattened. System was improved from 1995, and earlier ones should have been updated. Ask seller if locks have been changed
Electrical functions. Check everything at least twice could be expensive to replace things
Paintwork and interior trim. If its scruffy the rest of the vehicle could have been abused too. Avoid
Catalytic converter. Tap to see if it rattles
Exhaust smoke. Look for blue oil smoke, black diesel smoke or white smoke on starting (water in the bores)
When Test Driving
To test the air suspension, you need to know that it will only respond to commands if the engine is running, all doors and the tailgate are closed, and your foot is off the brake. In Park, you should be able to raise and lower it over the full range from "access" to "high" settings. In motion, if the "inhibit" switch (to the right of the height control switch) is off, the suspension should stay in standard profile until you exceed 50 mph for about 30 seconds, then it should lower itself to "low" profile. When you slow down below 35 for about 30 seconds it should revert to "standard". Below 35 mph you should also be able to select "high" profile. The P38 should feel tight and car-like to drive, with reduced body roll, and virtually none of the clonking, slop and gear noise associated with earlier models. Steering should be precise and the car should track straight. Transmission shifts should be very smooth. Engaging "sport" mode by pressing the button next to the shifter should make the tranny stay in its lower ranges longer and shift down more readily. The torque converter lockup is electronically controlled and can tend to hunt to and fro a bit on hills, giving the impression of frequent gear changing. To test the transfer case, stop, select neutral, move the shifter across to the low range neutral position, wait 'til the beeps and flashing lights stop, then select the desired gear ratio. To test the climate control, just punch the big "auto" button and set the desired temperature
Hope this helps
The Usual Precautions
When buying a used Range Rover, many of the same considerations apply as when purchasing any other used vehicle. The overriding priority is to make sure the vehicle has had its scheduled maintenance performed; the owner's manual should be stamped to prove this. Do all the usual checks such as looking underneath to see if there are any leaks; if there are not, all fluids must be empty!! (Just kidding).
The P38's are just as subject to leaks as the Classic models. Coolant leaks are not uncommon, including thermostat housing, hose leaks. Head gasket leaks seem to be especially common on the later model years. Popular oil leak points include the crankcase pan and the pinion seals. There were several recall campaigns on the earlier models, including one to address coolant leak problems; make sure the work was done. See if the Message Center indicates any faults when you turn on the ignition; this gives a good indication as to whether all the electrical and electronic features are operating. Make sure all the electric door locks work. Check the function of the air suspension and climate control. For the latter, just punch the "Auto" button and set the desired temperature, making sure the system heats or cools properly.
And other stuff....
V8 engines. Cylinder liners can work loose and cylinder blocks can crack (especially on the 4.6-litre). If rad hoses feel really solid with engine running, this excess pressure is a clue
Diesel engines. Head gaskets can fail. Look for a tide mark in the expansion tank
Air-suspension control. Does the air suspension reach its highest setting without struggling. Also ensure its sitting level
Air-suspension units. If they leak the pump works overtime and eventually fails. It should rise from middle to highest setting in two minutes or less.
Air-suspension valve block and pump. Air suspension valves stick, then air is not directed to the suspension unit, which needs it. Pump sticker shows month/year of manufacture. Has it been replaced? Was a suspension unit changed too?
Door locks. Radio transmitters have been known to trigger locks and alarms. Locks switch repeatedly and burn out and the battery is flattened. System was improved from 1995, and earlier ones should have been updated. Ask seller if locks have been changed
Electrical functions. Check everything at least twice could be expensive to replace things
Paintwork and interior trim. If its scruffy the rest of the vehicle could have been abused too. Avoid
Catalytic converter. Tap to see if it rattles
Exhaust smoke. Look for blue oil smoke, black diesel smoke or white smoke on starting (water in the bores)
When Test Driving
To test the air suspension, you need to know that it will only respond to commands if the engine is running, all doors and the tailgate are closed, and your foot is off the brake. In Park, you should be able to raise and lower it over the full range from "access" to "high" settings. In motion, if the "inhibit" switch (to the right of the height control switch) is off, the suspension should stay in standard profile until you exceed 50 mph for about 30 seconds, then it should lower itself to "low" profile. When you slow down below 35 for about 30 seconds it should revert to "standard". Below 35 mph you should also be able to select "high" profile. The P38 should feel tight and car-like to drive, with reduced body roll, and virtually none of the clonking, slop and gear noise associated with earlier models. Steering should be precise and the car should track straight. Transmission shifts should be very smooth. Engaging "sport" mode by pressing the button next to the shifter should make the tranny stay in its lower ranges longer and shift down more readily. The torque converter lockup is electronically controlled and can tend to hunt to and fro a bit on hills, giving the impression of frequent gear changing. To test the transfer case, stop, select neutral, move the shifter across to the low range neutral position, wait 'til the beeps and flashing lights stop, then select the desired gear ratio. To test the climate control, just punch the big "auto" button and set the desired temperature
Hope this helps
