Breathing Issues

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Highvelt

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Tunbridge wells, Kent
Hi,

I am relatively new on here, https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hi-im-new.309239/

I have a pre face lift TD4 auto (with EGR Removed and a bypass installed at 99k miles), and I went to change my glow plugs yesterday to find that the plastic air intake manifold, and the 8 inlets in the engine block, were pretty much solid with carbon deposits, and after searching the forums I have seen a lot of suggestions of soaking the plastic manifold in oven cleaner or petrol etc and using a bottle brush to clear it out and paint the garage black. But I can't find anything about how to clean the inlets in the actual engine, I didn't want to disturb any of it, in case it clogged up the engine.... any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
 
With the manifold removed and the MAP sensor on the side of it, add some oven cleaner, let if soak for at least a couple of hours, then jet wash it out, remember to remove the rubbers seal they can be used again, wipe the MAP sensor clean as it too will have gunk on it, as for the sludge or carbon in the inlets leave that alone as it will be pushed through itself at a later date and clear.

While you have the manifold off check all hose under there for rubbing etc
 

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Clean the manifold with suitable cleaner and wash out. I use Kerosene to soften it, before pressure washing the goo out. I then dry it off by flushing with petrol and blowing out with an air gun.
The inlet tract it the head can be scraped out with a vacuum cleaner sucking out the bits. It's only soft carbon, so won't damage the engine, if small quantities get ingested. This could well happen in use, if a chunk breaks off.
 
Ok thanks, sounds easy enough, and yes Artic2 that small pipe you have pictured is melted through in exactly the same way on the vac side. The other pipe that comes from same place is just blanked on my EGR bypass, The melted pipe goes off round the back of the engine somewhere, I twisted the clip that holds it so it no longer rests against the pipe it was melted onto. Would it be worth repairing if I am not using the output anymore?
 
All vac pipes need to be air tight. The turbo uses vacuum to drive the variable vanes. If there's a leak in any vac pipe, the vacuum to drive the vanes is reduced. This causes low boost and limited performance.
So all vac pipes need to be sound, even those to the ECU solonoid valve. The pipe that would go from the EGR solonoid valve to the vacuum actuator also needs to be plugged.
 
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