brakes help

ghostrider6630 · Mar 19, 2022

Hi folks
So sorted brakes or i thought
So story was vehicle left a year with no movement starts fine but pedal yo tge floor no brakes wouldn't even pump up.
Vehicle has calipers all round on discovery axles.
I now fitted a new master cylinder and servo ezibled the brakes and it didn't work.
So went old school way and new fluid all through the pipes, and guess what , still no brakes so any you folks got an idea.
Regards
Many thanks in advance

lynall · Mar 19, 2022

Search for member bostontar he is the main man on here for brakes, top of his tree on the subject.

Hicap phill · Mar 19, 2022

Clamp the near side & rear flexi. This will mean you only have the off side (drivers) to bleed. Bleed this, get good pedal and remove N/S flexi. Bleed this till good pedal and continue to the rear.

kermit_rr · Mar 19, 2022

Are you getting fluid at any of the wheels? Is the fluid level in the reservoir going down as you try to bleed?

v8250 · Mar 19, 2022

ghostrider6630 said:
Hi folks
So sorted brakes or i thought
So story was vehicle left a year with no movement starts fine but pedal yo tge floor no brakes wouldn't even pump up.
Vehicle has calipers all round on discovery axles.
I now fitted a new master cylinder and servo ezibled the brakes and it didn't work.
So went old school way and new fluid all through the pipes, and guess what , still no brakes so any you folks got an idea.
Regards
Many thanks in advance

Have you fitted the correct type/model # of brake master cylinder? They have different bore sizes...to big and there won't be enough fluid pressure to actuate the brakes :. too much pedal stroke = no brakes.

As per @Hicap phill , follow this bleed sequence first to ensure zero air in system. If still no good return to BCM and servo. It is known for a new servo to be faulty so you'll need to check for vacuum + a proper air seal between the BCM and the servo housing.

+ have you adjusted the servo to BCM adjuster rod correctly?

landowner · Mar 19, 2022

If the flexi pipes are old they may be expanding under pressure causing pedal to go down further than it should.
It would be an extreme case for pedal to go to floor but possible and worth swapping, good excuse to go braided hoses on all 5.

ghostrider6630 · Mar 19, 2022

kermit_rr said:
Are you getting fluid at any of the wheels? Is the fluid level in the reservoir going down as you try to bleed?

Hi bud yeah clean fluid coming through all nipples fluid level is going down

ghostrider6630 · Mar 19, 2022

v8250 said:
Have you fitted the correct type/model # of brake master cylinder? They have different bore sizes...to big and there won't be enough fluid pressure to actuate the brakes :. too much pedal stroke = no brakes.

As per @Hicap phill , follow this bleed sequence first to ensure zero air in system. If still no good return to BCM and servo. It is known for a new servo to be faulty so you'll need to check for vacuum + a proper air seal between the BCM and the servo housing.

+ have you adjusted the servo to BCM adjuster rod correctly?

Hi mate
You are making this sound a tough job
Yep using correct master cylinder
Hiw is the vacuum checked for? And you mention the adjustor rod adjustment? Is thus a requirement on a straight swap?

Hicap phill · Mar 19, 2022

ghostrider6630 said:
Hi bud yeah clean fluid coming through all nipples fluid level is going down

Now clamp the flexi to see if the pedal firms up

kermit_rr · Mar 19, 2022

Seen this on a bike but not a car.. sticky caliper pistons that don't reach the disc, but move in and out as you press the pedal

Brown · Mar 20, 2022

kermit_rr said:
Seen this on a bike but not a car.. sticky caliper pistons that don't reach the disc, but move in and out as you press the pedal

Following on from this, sometimes if the wheel bearing's worn or the disc isn't running true for some reason the pistons can be forced well back into the cylinders so they've got to come out a long way to grip the disc. This gives the feeling of a lot of pedal travel.

lynall · Mar 20, 2022

kermit_rr said:
Seen this on a bike but not a car.. sticky caliper pistons that don't reach the disc, but move in and out as you press the pedal

Ive had that on a car as, dry piston seals caused it on new calipers, a few drops of brake fluid as lube sorted it, took me some time to work it out.

MattYorke · Mar 20, 2022

Brown said:
Following on from this, sometimes if the wheel bearing's worn or the disc isn't running true for some reason the pistons can be forced well back into the cylinders so they've got to come out a long way to grip the disc. This gives the feeling of a lot of pedal travel.

But to have it to the extent the OP describes, it’d be outrageous wheel wobble? And stationary, that symptom doesn’t present itself in my experience.

I did have loose bearing on my wagon once though. Pedal sometimes was solid (if stationary say), but drive a few metres and it’d drop a bit further on the first application.

But it was only a little, nothing major. Bearings were fine, I just tweaked the nut slightly on one front stub axle and it’s spot on again.

freelance · Mar 20, 2022

Have the brake pads rusted on the slides, so they won’t move

brakes help

ghostrider6630

New Member

lynall

Well-Known Member

Hicap phill

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kermit_rr

Very

v8250

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landowner

Pensioner Pete

ghostrider6630

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ghostrider6630

New Member

Hicap phill

Well-Known Member

kermit_rr

Very

Brown

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lynall

Well-Known Member

MattYorke

Active Member

freelance

Well-Known Member

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