Satisfying job that. Much betterTodays job was to replace the wiring loom conduit as it was crumbling away!
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After...
Bone's V8 Disco 2 Build Log
- Thread starter Bone9
- Start date
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Cheers mate.
I sourced a genuine fan and mounting bars from Spain. These were in great condition and rust free. I took the opportunity to refurbish the bars. Stripped back, 2 coats of red oxide primer and 4 coats of tough gloss black. They came out mint. As you can see my bar (only had the lower) has seen better days!! I decided my Spal fan wasn't up to the task and wanted genuine on there so happy days.
Before...
After...
Much better.
Before...
After...
Much better.
My battery died so an upgrade was in order obviously!!
Old (069) 68Ah 560A
New (C31-1000) 120Ah 930A
Fitted got a few problems. The battery fits straight in with no issues but I had some previous wiring that wouldn't reach as the terminals are now in the center of the battery instead of the rear. The positive terminal went straight on but I has to make 2 new sections up to reach the positive. The DC-DC charger feed and the interior switch relays. This is all now sorted and perfect. The main issue I currently have is the main earth is too short when attached to the body earth via the mid cable lug. So temporarily I've fitted the old DC-DC cable to bridge the gap (pictured in red). This is working great and the landy has never turned over so fast!!! But you know me, this isn't good enough and I need a permanent neat solution.
What do you think would be the best solution for this?
1, Make up complete new cables. 50mm for battery to engine and 35mm? for the battery to body.
2, Use a link plate for the 6mm body earth and use original main cable.
3, Use a busbar like plate on top of the battery terminal to extend the bolt hole to reach the original cable.
4, Any other suggestions?
Old (069) 68Ah 560A
New (C31-1000) 120Ah 930A
Fitted got a few problems. The battery fits straight in with no issues but I had some previous wiring that wouldn't reach as the terminals are now in the center of the battery instead of the rear. The positive terminal went straight on but I has to make 2 new sections up to reach the positive. The DC-DC charger feed and the interior switch relays. This is all now sorted and perfect. The main issue I currently have is the main earth is too short when attached to the body earth via the mid cable lug. So temporarily I've fitted the old DC-DC cable to bridge the gap (pictured in red). This is working great and the landy has never turned over so fast!!! But you know me, this isn't good enough and I need a permanent neat solution.
What do you think would be the best solution for this?
1, Make up complete new cables. 50mm for battery to engine and 35mm? for the battery to body.
2, Use a link plate for the 6mm body earth and use original main cable.
3, Use a busbar like plate on top of the battery terminal to extend the bolt hole to reach the original cable.
4, Any other suggestions?
Last edited:
ShaunPDisco
Active Member
- Posts
- 493
Just read through the whole thread. Amazing work.
Whatever you decide to do regarding the battery I am sure it will look quality!
Whatever you decide to do regarding the battery I am sure it will look quality!
Another day another upgrade! I got a Bosch 150A alternator to accompany the battery and to give my DC-DC charger plenty of juice. 120A to 150A.
Check out the size difference!
Nice and snug.
I also got a Gunson smart battery alarm, this goes off if the battery drops to 12.2v. This should at least help me to stop running the battery so low.
I've also ordered all the bits to make up some new battery cables.
Check out the size difference!
Nice and snug.
I also got a Gunson smart battery alarm, this goes off if the battery drops to 12.2v. This should at least help me to stop running the battery so low.
I've also ordered all the bits to make up some new battery cables.
It's for a p38 with the same engine.
So just recently I had a Bank 2 Sensor 1 code pop up. So I ordered 2 new Bosch sensors. Fitted these yesterday, fired it up and the sensor was still showing as unresponsive. So out came the new sensor and in went the good sensor from bank 1. Still unresponsive! Checked the wiring, looked fine but noticed the terminals were green. Stripped the connector and removed each terminal for cleaning. All mint and clean again, installed and fired up. Worked ok for about a minute then failed to change again. While running with a friend watching the data I unplugged the sensor and plugged it in a few times. Bingo, it's now working perfect. So out came the old good sensor and back in went the new bosch. Worked perfect. So I probably didn't need a sensor afterall and it was just a poor connection at the connector! I plan on replacing the terminals and connector. Just having trouble sourcing the 2 gold plated terminals, all the rest are sourced.
Then onto the next job! My drivers exhaust manifold is leaking. This was all stripped down cleaned, flattened and refitted with metal pressed gaskets instead of these performance ones from Real Steel. Once off I had a poor thread in one bolt hole. I fixed this with a helicoil, now perfect. So he's back to sounding awesome again. I'll do the other side (currently not leaking) when I get round to doing the plenum. This is the state of the old gaskets that have been on there from when I did the heads about 3 years about go! Brittle, cracked, crumbling and delaminating! Crap.
Then onto the next job! My drivers exhaust manifold is leaking. This was all stripped down cleaned, flattened and refitted with metal pressed gaskets instead of these performance ones from Real Steel. Once off I had a poor thread in one bolt hole. I fixed this with a helicoil, now perfect. So he's back to sounding awesome again. I'll do the other side (currently not leaking) when I get round to doing the plenum. This is the state of the old gaskets that have been on there from when I did the heads about 3 years about go! Brittle, cracked, crumbling and delaminating! Crap.
I have the worst possible thing happen.
It started with a very slight misfire from cold start that cleared after 1 minute of idling. This happened for a few days. On one day i instantly drove off with the misfire and got an engine light. Misfire cylinder no.4. I removed the plugs and compared them, cylinder 4 was orange and dirty compared to the rest. I cleaned all the plugs and refitted but swapped no.4 for no.1. The next morning I started the truck and the misfire had gone but could hear water behind the dash. After a few more days of no misfing I removed all the plugs to compare again. Cylinder no.4 was bad again but this time I had also noticed my coolant had dropped! The worst thoughts entered my head
The weekend arrived so I went up the garage to do a head gasket test on the coolant and to stick a camera down the cylinders. I drove to the garage and popped the bonnet to let it cool and found my coolant was full all the way to the cap and my hoses were like concrete No need for the head gasket test then as obviously pressurizing with combustion gases. I removed that banks plugs and got the camera out. This is what I found on cylinder no.4....
Piston top
Cylinder top
I'm completely gutted, it seems the liner has moved or the block has cracked.
After much thought i've decided to break the truck. I thought long and hard about my options and I just can't handle the stress of fitting another engine not knowing if the new one is about to fail. You all know the quality of my work and parts, it only had the best and wanted for nothing. So I'll start to list the parts soon but if you're interested in anything just drop me a message or ask here.
Cheers.
Tobias.
It started with a very slight misfire from cold start that cleared after 1 minute of idling. This happened for a few days. On one day i instantly drove off with the misfire and got an engine light. Misfire cylinder no.4. I removed the plugs and compared them, cylinder 4 was orange and dirty compared to the rest. I cleaned all the plugs and refitted but swapped no.4 for no.1. The next morning I started the truck and the misfire had gone but could hear water behind the dash. After a few more days of no misfing I removed all the plugs to compare again. Cylinder no.4 was bad again but this time I had also noticed my coolant had dropped! The worst thoughts entered my head
The weekend arrived so I went up the garage to do a head gasket test on the coolant and to stick a camera down the cylinders. I drove to the garage and popped the bonnet to let it cool and found my coolant was full all the way to the cap and my hoses were like concrete
No need for the head gasket test then as obviously pressurizing with combustion gases. I removed that banks plugs and got the camera out. This is what I found on cylinder no.4....Piston top
Cylinder top
I'm completely gutted, it seems the liner has moved or the block has cracked.
After much thought i've decided to break the truck. I thought long and hard about my options and I just can't handle the stress of fitting another engine not knowing if the new one is about to fail. You all know the quality of my work and parts, it only had the best and wanted for nothing. So I'll start to list the parts soon but if you're interested in anything just drop me a message or ask here.
Cheers.
Tobias.
Well thats a kick in the wedding tackle.
But before you part it, I would look at it a bit more. You have put loads of excelent work in. Aslong as its not rusting out from under you and is a keeper, then a new top hat short/long block would be a bullet proof investment.
Thing is could it be the same quality of headgasket as your exhaust gaskets?
RPI are only up the road from you? (well next door county) go have a chat with them. Dont rush. If you get rid you will only want another 1, maybe a while but you will and kick yourself.
J
.But before you part it, I would look at it a bit more. You have put loads of excelent work in. Aslong as its not rusting out from under you and is a keeper, then a new top hat short/long block would be a bullet proof investment.
Thing is could it be the same quality of headgasket as your exhaust gaskets?
RPI are only up the road from you? (well next door county) go have a chat with them. Dont rush. If you get rid you will only want another 1, maybe a while but you will
and kick yourself.J
Right guys, you'll be happy to know that I just can't bring myself to strip it. Everytime I get home and see it there my heart drops. I moved it round to the strip spot and sat in it just looking at all the work that i've done, its insane! It's just too good of a truck to let go! So I'm going to sorn it and build a top hat linered 4.6! 
The heart the truck deserves! I feel much happier now
The heart the truck deserves! I feel much happier now It's not the head gasket that's failed unfortunately, the liner moved or the block cracked. It is the same cylinder that blew the head gasket out the side when I first got it. Maybe that weakened the block?Well thats a kick in the wedding tackle
But before you part it, I would look at it a bit more. You have put loads of excelent work in. Aslong as its not rusting out from under you and is a keeper, then a new top hat short/long block would be a bullet proof investment.
Thing is could it be the same quality of headgasket as your exhaust gaskets?
RPI are only up the road from you? (well next door county) go have a chat with them. Dont rush. If you get rid you will only want another 1, maybe a while but you will
J
Progress so far...
Air box etc out of the way.
Upper intake manifold off.
Lower intake manifold, coil packs, fan, belts, pulleys, coolant hoses and rocker covers etc.
Heads off.
The problem cylinder, all liners look and feel ok for movement.
Torque converter etc unbolted and ready to come out!
Out she comes!
On the stand ready for action!
The problem cylinder looks suspect.
That's all for now.
Air box etc out of the way.
Upper intake manifold off.
Lower intake manifold, coil packs, fan, belts, pulleys, coolant hoses and rocker covers etc.
Heads off.
The problem cylinder, all liners look and feel ok for movement.
Torque converter etc unbolted and ready to come out!
Out she comes!
On the stand ready for action!
The problem cylinder looks suspect.
That's all for now.
Got a fair bit more progress to show you guys! Stripped the block of front cover, cam chain and sprockets, camshaft, pistons & rods, crankshaft and sump. Here's some pics...
Then I cleaned the sump...
Then I removed the oil pump to find it like this!!!!
I've since read about the 2003 having poor alignment on the front cover which causes the oil pump to break, There is also some scoring on the cover. From before my ownership a water pump failed and had gouged the front cover also. A new front cover is required.
Today I cleaned the block...
Next saturday I should be picking up a complete 4.6 V8 to use for parts if its all good.
Then I cleaned the sump...
Then I removed the oil pump to find it like this!!!!
I've since read about the 2003 having poor alignment on the front cover which causes the oil pump to break, There is also some scoring on the cover. From before my ownership a water pump failed and had gouged the front cover also. A new front cover is required.
Today I cleaned the block...
Next saturday I should be picking up a complete 4.6 V8 to use for parts if its all good.
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