Body badly rusted, but engine is A1 - what to do?

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captainbeaky

Active Member
Posts
292
Hi all,

After 10 years of absolutely sterling service, my 1992 Classic has just scraped through the mot. It needed a little welding, but there is significant rot in all the usual places - too much to repair, so this is the last year for the vehicle in its current guise.

Problem is, that the engine and drivetrain are spot on. I put in a 4.6 top hat engine, with stage 2 cams, big valve heads, with a 10.2 cr, back in 2007, and it's done about 30k miles since. The engine is a peach - the auto trans is spot on - the transfer box whines a bit - but not excessively, and the axles are fine.

So - what to do?

Current options include:-

1. Find another classic - nice idea, but I've looked at a few classics for sale, and they all seem to need extensive rust repairs, so for a rust free example, I'd be looking at some serious cash ( circa £6k) or serious rust repair. This would be my ideal fix, as I like the classic rangie a lot, but I have to be realistic about the amount of repairs a classic body would need, or how expensive a good one would be to buy.

2. Find a P38 that needs a new engine. This seems like a good idea? I drove a diesel P38 the other day - drove very nicely ( apart from the lack of power) and I think this would be very good with my 4.6 in it. With an absolute minter 4.6 coming up at £4k, loads of nice looking vehicles at under £2k, and some with engine trouble coming in at a few hundred pounds, this seems to be in my kinda price range? - what are p38s like for problems? Are diagnostic tools readily available to counter the electrical gremlins? Where do they rust?

3. Build a 100" hybrid. I like this idea - keeping the best bits of my car, and putting on a modded defender body. Anyone else out there done this? please get in touch, especially if you are close to Stroud in Gloucestershire - I wouldn't mind having a gander at one... I estimate £2500 in parts to do this - does this sound right?
Or find a v8 90 or 110, and put mine in it?

4. Dakar - nice idea on the face of it - but, having visited Dakar, and looked at the work needed, it's not quite as simple. You retain the floor pan ( which is pretty rotten on mine) and put on a glass fibre body and tubular steel roll cage. This is a pretty big load of work, and the price is steep too - circa £6k by the time I have added doors and a roof. Also, it stands out in a crowd - I prefer to disappear into the crowd somewhat.

5. Tomcat - this is an odd option for a car that will be used everyday, but it seems cost effective, with a kit coming in at about £2500. This kit does replace the floor pan, but will be more like a series 2 than a range rover. This looks about the same amount of work as a Dakar.

6. Upgrade to an L322. As per the p38, are diagnostic tools available, and what goes wrong?
And who would buy my classic for the engine?

This is all the research I've done at the mo. I did find a kit that put the engine in the back - I didn't like the look of this though.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

Mike.
 
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The p38 and distributor v8 different-buy a discovery v and slot yours in
 
Sorry - don't like discos...

I know about the difference with later p38 v8's - mine started out as a later engine, but was converted to run dizzy. Converting back isn't a problem ( provided I have serviceable bits on the p38.)

Mike,
 
Yeah, scrapping her out is a realistic option, and might be what I end up doing - the question still stands - what do I replace her with?
 
P38's are fairly bulletproof Rust Worm-wise....only very negelected one suffer badly.

BUT.....

There can be an electrical nightmare - if the engine has gone south and is for sale at only a few hundred pounds, what else is gonna go boom soon after you transplant your powerplant???

There are a multitude of very good Diagnostics tools around for the P38 which makes owning one well into the DIY'ers realm.

Search t'internet for Blackbox Solutions Nanocom Evolution - this is one of the best devices around and is around £380 or so (cheaper at the mo as they have a sale on) there is also the Bearmach Hawkeye (Under £300 but not as functional as the Nano) and also you can go the Whole Hog and get the BBS Faultmate Extreme at £1000, but this is for serious tinkers and hardcore DIY'ers.

They will all do the EAS, but there is also the Free EASUnlock Software from RSW Solutions....

Datatek (a member on here) can supply the required Diagnostic Lead and the Free EAS UInlock Software for about £16 plus postage (The cost is to cover the parts to make the lead obviously)

Classics are pure class looking vehicles....my 1993 3.9 wasn't much to look at and it was starting to require some welding work, but it was by far the best Range Rover I have had (don't get me wrong my P38's were great and comfy, and my first Classic will always be a soft spot for me....my L322 is simple awesome and I wouldn't swap it for the world - but my 1993 Classic was a true workhorse, never failed on me bar one time with a bust Ignition amp) until some little cnuts stole it and burnt it out....fair enough nick it to go stealing riding gear in, but don't burn it out afterwards.....

If I was in you position what would I do??..........If I had the Space, I'd get myself a P38 (Or L322 if you can stretch to it) as a daily and then slowly rebuild the Classic....

Of course that requires space and cash.....two things I don't have, so I'd probably go the P38 route with a knacker engine but everything else is sweet.....be warned they are a minefield of niggles.....and I wouldn't try getting a 4.0 or Diesel and putting your 4.6 into it...the potential problems with getting it all to talk is, whilst not impossible, can be frustrating.

If it had a 4.6 in the first place....transplanting your engine into it will/should be plug and play!

Just my 2p worth!
 
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Thanks for that brilliant reply - i agree, the classic is something special - and I do have a soft spot for it. But my current shell has bad corrosion on a-post, and this would be very hard to fix nicely.

Problem is, that I've already got 3 classic car projects on the boil let alone other normal cars & bikes that need servicing, and a conservatory that is no longer square due to the recent storms. I need something reliable for every day, so I'm looking for something straightforward.

From hard fought experience, I like to have a decent diagnostics capability on any car these days - the vag-com tool is the dogs dangly bits for vw's, and has saved me £££££'s while I've been building my t5 camper.

I'd be reluctant to take on a p38 without the ability to read and clear codes.

Oh yeah - I won't try to convert a p38 petrol to a diesel - nightmare city.
My engine started out as a 4.0 from a p38 ( mems, not Thor), so is cross bolted, but is running hotwire, with a classic front timing case, so either way, I'd be changing the front timing case etc,. if I fitted it into a p38.. It's all doable stuff - not too worried about that.

I'm thinking about the practicalities of each conversion...
 
Thanks for that brilliant reply - i agree, the classic is something special - and I do have a soft spot for it. But my current shell has bad corrosion on a-post, and this would be very hard to fix nicely.

Problem is, that I've already got 3 classic car projects on the boil let alone other normal cars & bikes that need servicing, and a conservatory that is no longer square due to the recent storms. I need something reliable for every day, so I'm looking for something straightforward.

From hard fought experience, I like to have a decent diagnostics capability on any car these days - the vag-com tool is the dogs dangly bits for vw's, and has saved me £££££'s while I've been building my t5 camper.

I'd be reluctant to take on a p38 without the ability to read and clear codes.

Oh yeah - I won't try to convert a p38 petrol to a diesel - nightmare city.
My engine started out as a 4.0 from a p38 ( mems, not Thor), so is cross bolted, but is running hotwire, with a classic front timing case, so either way, I'd be changing the front timing case etc,. if I fitted it into a p38.. It's all doable stuff - not too worried about that.

I'm thinking about the practicalities of each conversion...
A Nanocom will do all you want on a P38 for diagnostics. the L322 is a real dog IMO the electronics are a nightmare.
 
Buy a pre 1990 rrc, they were made of much thicker steel so are better for a rebuild.

But a full body rebuild is what I want to avoid!

I know first hand how much soul destroying time and money a body rebuild can cost - and this is what I want to avoid.

Also, it takes up a lot of room that I don't have.

A clean p38 is looking quite appealing...
Or then again, a 100" hybrid could be a nice little project..

Anyone out there done a hybrid or a tomcat?
 
Chassis is fine - I painted and waxoyled it 10 years ago, but if anyone knows where I can get a galv body for a classic - let me know...!

I have sandblasted enough rotting classics in my time for restorers to know that they don't spend up to £2000 if they can't get or make sections



If you ask me nicely I might even find out for you
If you give me some time !!!!!!!!:rolleyes:
 
P38's are fairly bulletproof Rust Worm-wise....only very negelected one suffer badly.

BUT.....

There can be an electrical nightmare - if the engine has gone south and is for sale at only a few hundred pounds, what else is gonna go boom soon after you transplant your powerplant???

There are a multitude of very good Diagnostics tools around for the P38 which makes owning one well into the DIY'ers realm.

Search t'internet for Blackbox Solutions Nanocom Evolution - this is one of the best devices around and is around £380 or so (cheaper at the mo as they have a sale on) there is also the Bearmach Hawkeye (Under £300 but not as functional as the Nano) and also you can go the Whole Hog and get the BBS Faultmate Extreme at £1000, but this is for serious tinkers and hardcore DIY'ers.

They will all do the EAS, but there is also the Free EASUnlock Software from RSW Solutions....

Datatek (a member on here) can supply the required Diagnostic Lead and the Free EAS UInlock Software for about £16 plus postage (The cost is to cover the parts to make the lead obviously)

Classics are pure class looking vehicles....my 1993 3.9 wasn't much to look at and it was starting to require some welding work, but it was by far the best Range Rover I have had (don't get me wrong my P38's were great and comfy, and my first Classic will always be a soft spot for me....my L322 is simple awesome and I wouldn't swap it for the world - but my 1993 Classic was a true workhorse, never failed on me bar one time with a bust Ignition amp) until some little cnuts stole it and burnt it out....fair enough nick it to go stealing riding gear in, but don't burn it out afterwards.....

If I was in you position what would I do??..........If I had the Space, I'd get myself a P38 (Or L322 if you can stretch to it) as a daily and then slowly rebuild the Classic....

Of course that requires space and cash.....two things I don't have, so I'd probably go the P38 route with a knacker engine but everything else is sweet.....be warned they are a minefield of niggles.....and I wouldn't try getting a 4.0 or Diesel and putting your 4.6 into it...the potential problems with getting it all to talk is, whilst not impossible, can be frustrating.

If it had a 4.6 in the first place....transplanting your engine into it will/should be plug and play!

Just my 2p worth!
P38 panels were zinc plated that might help , not sure about your new breed tho :eek:
 
The pic you sent looks like a whole load of work that I don't have the time&space to do to another vehicle....

Would love to bring a classic up to spec, but time is a problem for me at the mo
Also - my body is so bad, I'd start with a different one...

And the three other classic car projects that sit in front of it need to be looked at first...
 
The pic you sent looks like a whole load of work that I don't have the time&space to do to another vehicle....

Would love to bring a classic up to spec, but time is a problem for me at the mo
Also - my body is so bad, I'd start with a different one...

And the three other classic car projects that sit in front of it need to be looked at first...

Fair enough :)
 
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