Blower not working

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Lewis07

Active Member
Posts
189
Location
Kent
Stopped working and having taken off dash and had a wiggle which appeared to work it worked for several days but has stopped again! Dash back off and all connections checked and appear OK and fuse good.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
 
Stopped working and having taken off dash and had a wiggle which appeared to work it worked for several days but has stopped again! Dash back off and all connections checked and appear OK and fuse good.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

The usual reply to electrical problems is to check, clean and re-secure the earth tags ...
 
What age of defender??

On my old pre defender 1986

The switch earths the motor out either through a resistor slow speed or direct to earth. My resistor has been blown since before I owned the vehicle (2003) and a new replacement is a heater box out job, £100 for the resistor and harness however a replacement resistor is about £7-20 on its own.

If the wiring is similar, Go under the bonnet down behind or to the side of the heater box in the wing. Pull the connector (3 pin Lucas type) the purple wire is the perm live to the motor and two green with a stripe, green yellow, green grey I think are the returns to the switch that come from the motor through the resistor or straight from the motor. The switch in the cab directs each of these to ground.

I am making up a remote resistor and a plug in harness between the three way connector to get my slow speed back.

If you unplug the harness at the three pin plug. Put 12v positive power to the purple plug that goes to the motor and earth to the green silver (direct to motor wire), the motor should fire up and spin up at full speed easy with a power probe. If it doesn’t try the other green yellow as earth this “should” be the one with the resistor on the motor.
If the motor doesn’t spin it could be seized. Can try turning it by hand to free it. Make sure it’s free of debris. Mine I suspected was seized but it wasn’t.


If you confirm that the motor runs then you know that it is ok. I’d then check you have a feed to the purple from the harness with a power probe or multimeter with ign on.

If you have 12v on the purple feed you know the fuse is good and ign is powering the heater ok.

I’d then go down the route of the earth.

I’d suspect the ground to be an issue either bad switch burnt out or bad connection. Mine was poor Lucas terminals gritty so switch cleaner and cleaned them up.

It’s just a case of working your way through methodically until you isolate the failed part.

A power probe makes this a 5 - 10 minute deal I did mine last weekend.

Good luck.

Later models will have different wiring and colour codes but if you search online for your year and model the wiring diagram is freely available. I believe the colour codes I’ve listed are also for 300tdi models
 

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What age of defender??

On my old pre defender 1986

The switch earths the motor out either through a resistor slow speed or direct to earth. My resistor has been blown since before I owned the vehicle (2003) and a new replacement is a heater box out job, £100 for the resistor and harness however a replacement resistor is about £7-20 on its own.

If the wiring is similar, Go under the bonnet down behind or to the side of the heater box in the wing. Pull the connector (3 pin Lucas type) the purple wire is the perm live to the motor and two green with a stripe, green yellow, green grey I think are the returns to the switch that come from the motor through the resistor or straight from the motor. The switch in the cab directs each of these to ground.

I am making up a remote resistor and a plug in harness between the three way connector to get my slow speed back.

If you unplug the harness at the three pin plug. Put 12v positive power to the purple plug that goes to the motor and earth to the green silver (direct to motor wire), the motor should fire up and spin up at full speed easy with a power probe. If it doesn’t try the other green yellow as earth this “should” be the one with the resistor on the motor.
If the motor doesn’t spin it could be seized. Can try turning it by hand to free it. Make sure it’s free of debris. Mine I suspected was seized but it wasn’t.


If you confirm that the motor runs then you know that it is ok. I’d then check you have a feed to the purple from the harness with a power probe or multimeter with ign on.

If you have 12v on the purple feed you know the fuse is good and ign is powering the heater ok.

I’d then go down the route of the earth.

I’d suspect the ground to be an issue either bad switch burnt out or bad connection. Mine was poor Lucas terminals gritty so switch cleaner and cleaned them up.

It’s just a case of working your way through methodically until you isolate the failed part.

A power probe makes this a 5 - 10 minute deal I did mine last weekend.

Good luck.

Later models will have different wiring and colour codes but if you search online for your year and model the wiring diagram is freely available. I believe the colour codes I’ve listed are also for 300tdi models

I reckon an old style Sherpa one would fit ...
 
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