Batterie / Alternator

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tyke100

tyke100

Active Member
Posts
418
Location
derby
Just a quick question.
After having problems.over the past week and trying to sort the timing out which causes the gearbox also switching gears temperamental up to higher revs.
Had gearbox trouble when I bought the car till I replaced the batterie for a bigger on.

Now today I had after an hour a charge of 11.5 v coming up ( dashboard display aftermarket ) and slowly drained the batterie

( Some very light flashing intermittent of the batterie light in the dash )

The belt isn't very tight after investigating.

Would the belt be the problem or is the alternator on a replacement job?
I can get an old stock but new 100a cheap enough.

Just not sure, get a new alternator and get it done before x mas or tighten the belt and look maybe a sad sitting at home.x mas?

Starting to think the starting issues and gearbox high rev switching has some.to do with alternator not charging properly.
But this is on the side note.
 
11.5 is a flat battery. You need to fully charge while it is off the vehicle.
You also need to measure the alternator output. With the engine running, connect a volt meter between the main output connection on the alternator and the metal body of the alternator. This should ideally be 14.7 volts.
The belt normally makes a noise of it is slipping
 
11.5 volts is a completely dead battery, possibly beyond recovery. A new alternator will make no difference if the battery is fecked.
The serpentine belt is not adjustable, it is tensioned by the spring/damper unit but a badly worn belt can slip
.Do you have a battery charger? If so, what amperage?
 
kermit_rr said:
11.5 is a flat battery. You need to fully charge while it is off the vehicle.
You also need to measure the alternator output. With the engine running, connect a volt meter between the main output connection on the alternator and the metal body of the alternator. This should ideally be 14.7 volts.
The belt normally makes a noise of it is slipping
Click to expand...
Beat me to it:)
 
No I haven't a meter to hand to check the alternator output.
The nancom said beforehand 13.6 or so, now I'm thinking this explains why.

No noises all the way along from the belt.
Yes batterie is on charge. Only 6 month old, but I tending more to alternator as the controll light in dash came up on the way home a couple times.
Not fully, just flickered when the revs came down by stopping.

Batterie itself was down to 9.9 v when I put it on charge and is gone up to 11.9 the last hour.
is only 6 month old. 1000cca

How easy is the alternator change on the 2.5d ? And is there anything to watch out for?
 
Datatek said:
11.5 volts is a completely dead battery, possibly beyond recovery. A new alternator will make no difference if the battery is fecked.
The serpentine belt is not adjustable, it is tensioned by the spring/damper unit but a badly worn belt can slip
.Do you have a battery charger? If so, what amperage?
Click to expand...

And may well damage your new alternator.
Battery off & fully charge with a battery charger.
FWIW having used them twice this year I can recommend Tayna batteries. Better prices than I get trade from my usual motor factor & on both occasions delivered in well under 24 hours.

ETA Just seen your last post. Leave on charge overnight & see what it's like in the morning.
Where did the battery come from & what brand? I had issues with the Lion branded ones from ECP a few years ago. 2 replacements within the warranty period. When I took the last one back the chap behind the counter told me they reckoned to get around 1/3 of them back within the warranty period.
 
Last edited:
Ratae said:
And may well damage your new alternator.
Battery off & fully charge with a battery charger.
FWIW having used them twice this year I can recommend Tayna batteries. Better prices than I get trade from my usual motor factor & on both occasions delivered in well under 24 hours.
Click to expand...
I don't know that one, but the MF31-1000 from battery megastore at less than £100 delivered takes some beating:) No affiliation but I have 6 of them and very happy with them.
 
I have it from tayma.
Just called them, they sending replacement. So that's a new one on the way.

Guessing, still need the alternator as then light in the dash didn't come from a just empty batterie which was full on my way to the shops and charge was showing 13.8 to 14.3 depending on revs.
It started on the way home.
Tried the other one I have just now and is doing the same.

Light warning light flickering going down in revs.

Easy job to replace? Ordering the new alternator now.
 
You probably only need a new regulator for your alternator.
If you do decide to buy a new alternator, make sure it has a 14,7volt set point or you will be back in the same position with a flat battery very quickly.
 
Datatek said:
I don't know that one, but the MF31-1000 from battery megastore at less than £100 delivered takes some beating:) No affiliation but I have 6 of them and very happy with them.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Worth bearing in mind next time I need one.
 
Ratae said:
And may well damage your new alternator.
Battery off & fully charge with a battery charger.
FWIW having used them twice this year I can recommend Tayna batteries. Better prices than I get trade from my usual motor factor & on both occasions delivered in well under 24 hours.

ETA Just seen your last post. Leave on charge overnight & see what it's like in the morning.
Where did the battery come from & what brand? I had issues with the Lion branded ones from ECP a few years ago. 2 replacements within the warranty period. When I took the last one back the chap behind the counter told me they reckoned to get around 1/3 of them back within the warranty period.
Click to expand...
+1 reTayna, good value.
Just be aware the terminal posts are in the middle of each end.
 
Datatek said:
I don't know that one, but the MF31-1000 from battery megastore at less than £100 delivered takes some beating:) No affiliation but I have 6 of them and very happy with them.
Click to expand...
+1, remember seeing on the battery label that if the battery voltage drops below a certain level the battery is irrecoverable and the warranty is void.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
+1 reTayna, good value.
Just be aware the terminal posts are in the middle of each end.
Click to expand...

Mine were for my RRClassic & my Sprinter.
RRC is a left hand positive & the Sprinter is a right hand positive.
Tayna & Battery Megastore both show pics of the layout so you can compare.

I've just done a quick check of both sites using the reg of the Sprinter.
Tayna show 019 100ah whereas BM show 096 80ah
019 is the correct factory fit & much bigger than 096 so worth checking what your factory fit was before buying.
 
Yeah the batterie was the one recommended last Time.
MF31 - thats what comes as replacement.

Just asked rhe question before paying the alternator, if it's set to 14.7v
How would I know ?

I can, I hope, depending on how, exchange the alternator.

Done it before on other cars.
Fiddling with the thing, I may not quiet qualified for it.
But I see if anyone can refurbish the old alternator.

So just waiting of answer and then order.
I believe is on through bolt on the top and one on the bottom to remove and put the new one back in?
How easy is the belt going on and off?
 
tyke100 said:
Yeah the batterie was the one recommended last Time.
MF31 - thats what comes as replacement.

Just asked rhe question before paying the alternator, if it's set to 14.7v
How would I know ?

I can, I hope, depending on how, exchange the alternator.

Done it before on other cars.
Fiddling with the thing, I may not quiet qualified for it.
But I see if anyone can refurbish the old alternator.

So just waiting of answer and then order.
I believe is on through bolt on the top and one on the bottom to remove and put the new one back in?
How easy is the belt going on and off?
Click to expand...
tyke100 said:
Yeah the batterie was the one recommended last Time.
MF31 - thats what comes as replacement.

Just asked rhe question before paying the alternator, if it's set to 14.7v
How would I know ?

I can, I hope, depending on how, exchange the alternator.

Done it before on other cars.
Fiddling with the thing, I may not quiet qualified for it.
But I see if anyone can refurbish the old alternator.

So just waiting of answer and then order.
I believe is on through bolt on the top and one on the bottom to remove and put the new one back in?
How easy is the belt going on and off?
Click to expand...
After fitting the alternator and the new battery which MUST be fully charged before fitting, you can check the voltage by putting a meter across the battery terminals with the engine running, you should see 14.7 volts initially.
Releasing the belt needs a long lever on the belt tensioner with gentle pressure.
Getting old, can't remember the bolt positions but they are pretty obvious when you look.
 
Datatek said:
After fitting the alternator and the new battery which MUST be fully charged before fitting, you can check the voltage by putting a meter across the battery terminals with the engine running, you should see 14.7 volts initially.
Releasing the belt needs a long lever on the belt tensioner with gentle pressure.
Getting old, can't remember the bolt positions but they are pretty obvious when you look.
Click to expand...
Lucky he ain't got a TD5 with a vacuum pump stuck ont end of it!
 
That's what I got back Screenshot_20211220-205122_eBay.jpg
 
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