Auto gearbox issues

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crashtestdummy

New Member
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25
Location
Great Baddow Essex
Good day to you all.
Recommended to this site by one of your members but didn't get his user name, will let you know when I see him at work.
So here we go, everybody joins for a reason and here is mine.
I have a 2004 V6 Freelander, petrol obviously.
It is an auto and has developed issues when changing gear, primarily between the first three. On selecting Drive the engagement is harsh. When accelerating through the gears selecting second comes with a jolt and third with almost a braking motion before continuing and then reasonably smooth between fourth and fifth as long as you don't need to kick down. On braking it goes down the gears quite harshly and then from second to first is almost like you have hit the brakes.
I have had varying suggestions as to what the problem is and as such have changed the oil, is it critical as to what oil I use?
After about twenty miles if you stop and turn the engine off and then go again it seems to cure itself?
I have had quotes from £500 to £1500 which makes me beg the question, do these people know what they are on about or am I about to have my pants pulled down?
The problem at the moment seems to be persistent and I normally only do journeys of between 10 to 20 miles, could this be an issue?
Any help would be massively appreciated as I loathe to pay somebody to do a job that I can do myself.
:mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
Welcome.

Possibly the solenoids are defective. Ashcroft Transmissions will fit a replacement auto box for about £1500.

I have been quoted £4-500 plus parts to fix mine.
By the time you factor in s oil change (and yes you need to use the right oil and the engine has to be running at the time.) it might be worth having a new box.
 
Epicuser said:
Welcome.

Possibly the solenoids are defective. Ashcroft Transmissions will fit a replacement auto box for about £1500.

I have been quoted £4-500 plus parts to fix mine.
By the time you factor in s oil change (and yes you need to use the right oil and the engine has to be running at the time.) it might be worth having a new box.
Click to expand...


Have had a quote from A+M Gearboxes in Chelmsford of £600 to cure all faults, includes 12000 mile 12 month warranty no hidden extras. My only concern is that they might only swap over a couple of dodgy solenoids at minimal cost and then give me a big bill, that said they were very helpful and seemed genuine, also have been recommended by every local garage that I have spoken to.
 
crashtestdummy said:
So that said then the parts are cheap? Or would you recommend that I pass it off to the experts? All said and done these guys have been in Chelmsford for years and they come highly recommended from two garages that I would also send my grandmother to.
Click to expand...


I think it is a gearbox out job to do it.
 
Try an oil change first.
It's a pretty easy job, if I can do it anyone can!
But the chances are you will need to replace a solenoid or two - there are 2 that often go.
Solenoids cost around £45-£55 each, and you don't need to take the gearbox out.
Hippo did a youtube video (linked on here somewhere) on measuring the solenoids which is a good place to start.
Failing that, could be a clutch band, but hopefully not!
 
teddywood1 said:
is it worse when it is cold? if so it could be the seals in the gear box what is it like being put into reverse?
Click to expand...

Doesn't make a great difference hot or cold, just that sometimes after a drive of around twenty miles if you switch it off for a few seconds and then start again the fault will clear itself until you stop for about fifteen / twenty minutes then it reappears. As for selecting reverse this is not a problem. It will select all gears just not in a pleasant way.:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
Found Hippo's video on you tube. How helpful is that? Just off to borrow a multi meter and narrow down the issues. The whole process of stripping and replacing looks straight forward enough and easily within my capabilities. Just need to find which parts are at fault and then locate the best prices.
 
Epicuser said:
Welcome.

Possibly the solenoids are defective. Ashcroft Transmissions will fit a replacement auto box for about £1500.

I have been quoted £4-500 plus parts to fix mine.
By the time you factor in s oil change (and yes you need to use the right oil and the engine has to be running at the time.) it might be worth having a new box.
Click to expand...

Oil- Mine has been replaced with Comma ATF, AQM Mineral oil which is recommended for applications requiring Dexron II and IID. As suggested by my local motor parts supplier. Is it up to the job or is it completely wrong?

:confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
Anyway, if I were you this is what I'd do:
1. Measure the solenoids as per Hippo's vid. If that doesn't reveal a problem (it didn't in my case)...
2. According to my magic LR manual, your symptoms could be a sign of excess oil pressure, which could be caused by too much oil, the wrong oil or a faulty line pressure solenoid. Buy some known good ATF and do a full change.(instructions here). Note the old oil - does it smell burnt? If so could be a clutch band problem, which is not good. Otherwise...
3. Replace the line pressure solenoid. It's a little tricky but not that hard. You'll find it easier to remove the front plate if you drop the oil cooler first, so you'll have to drain it a bit. If you've bought 20 litres of fluid, you'll be very pleased at this point :)
4. If after all that it still isn't happy there are a few more solenoids you can try, but you can decide when you get there.

Note that to do a full fluid change you'll need to do a partial change as per the instructions, then disconnect the oil cooler and allow it to drain the torque converter, but you'll need someone to switch-off the engine quick when the clean stuff starts coming through.

I tried to attach the LR manual I referred to but it's too big so PM me your email if you want it, loads of very useful info in there about the Jatco box including probable fixes and plenty besides.
 
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