Annoying squeaking while driving.

JamesBB · May 30, 2015

Hi All

Can somebody help me get rid of the most annoying squeak I have heard on this lovely vehicle.

It started suddenly and is related to forward and reverse, not related to engine speed, but is very much related to road speed.

From about 5mph to to 20 it is very loud. Quietens down around 40mph, but shudders a little through the steering (and through the chassis it feels) around 30mph.

Putting my foot on the accelerator the noise stops, foot off and let it coast and the noise is back.

Happens in any gear so it seems, although I use it in drive most of the time.
Slowing down it also makes the noise, and then shudders again but far more of a shudder, going below 15-20 mph.

I really thought it was the brakes, it is a noise just like a pad getting to the metal on metal stage. My discs were worn and pads very low but there was a little material left.
However, in the last week or so I have replaced the following:
New discs all around.
New pads all around.
New caliper carriers all around. (due to seized pins).
New bolts for above.
New brake fluid.

I have grease gunned the propshaft, as many nipples as I could find.
Noise still present, vibration too at low speed braking and acceleration.

Has anybody got any idea what this noise could be?

Thanks in advance.
James

Datatek · May 30, 2015

If it's a 4.6 P38 there should be 6 grease nipples on the prop shafts. Vibration suggests UJ's to me.

Saint.V8 · May 30, 2015

Bearings??

tomcat59alan · May 30, 2015

Wheel bearing is what I would look at as the noise goes when you press the brakes. Centralises a worn bearing.

JamesBB · May 30, 2015

UJs and/or bearings.....

Would the vibration disappear as you speed up?
I am not getting the usual wheel bearing wobble wobble wobble noise you normally tend to get with bearings.

Would UJs cause a squeak that also disappears as you speed up?

How about coming off the accelerator and the noise going?

Cheers guys.

JamesBB · May 30, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
Wheel bearing is what I would look at as the noise goes when you press the brakes. Centralises a worn bearing.

No sorry noise does not go when I press the brakes, it is still there.

tomcat59alan · May 30, 2015

JamesBB said:
No sorry noise does not go when I press the brakes, it is still there.

Sorry misread your post.

JamesBB · May 30, 2015

Wheel bearings sound like a nightmare. Island 4x4 site says "This item requires professional fitting (Not for DIY!!)"
To be honest I just fitted new front bearings to my other car, that was a pig of a job even with a heat torch and proper bearing / race driving tools.

UJs sounds worrying too.

Saint.V8 · May 30, 2015

Give your UJs a good dose of looking at, you don't want one to fail on the move!

JamesBB · May 30, 2015

So I guess the best plan of action is inspect the UJs, pump as much grease into them and the end of the props as I can. I think I only found 4 nipples and Datatek says there are 6 on a P38. I will check and pack them with grease then see if the noise/vibration really has gone. If not, then I guess we are back to wheel bearings and a trip to somebody who can do the job........

MrGorsky · May 30, 2015

There is one nipple on each UJ and one other about half way up each drive shaft to grease the sliding joint.

You can do them on suspension high, and then just drive (or push) the car forward and backwards a bit to expose the nipple you want.

Obviously climbing under nearly 3 tons of car trusting just the suspension isn't the safest thing to do, but it is fast.

Grrrrrr · May 30, 2015

MrGorsky said:
There is one nipple on each UJ and one other about half way up each drive shaft to grease the sliding joint.

You can do them on suspension high, and then just drive (or push) the car forward and backwards a bit to expose the nipple you want.

Obviously climbing under nearly 3 tons of car trusting just the suspension isn't the safest thing to do, but it is fast.

You can always slip an axle stand under the chassis rail just in case. Obviously leave the tailgate open to stop it self-levelling itself onto you.

There should be no play in the UJs at all if you twist them back and forth by hand. Give them a good yank!

JamesBB · May 30, 2015

Thanks guys
I will check them over tomorrow.
Happy to slip an axle stand under the chassis while there.
I just left the tailgate open earlier today and was quick about it, hence missing a nipple or two.
Was unsure how to check the UJs but will research a bit more.

Cheers

Datatek · May 31, 2015

JamesBB said:
Thanks guys
I will check them over tomorrow.
Happy to slip an axle stand under the chassis while there.
I just left the tailgate open earlier today and was quick about it, hence missing a nipple or two.
Was unsure how to check the UJs but will research a bit more.

Cheers

If a UJ is shot, greasing it may get rid of the squeak, but will not stop it failing dramatically.

JamesBB · May 31, 2015

Datatek said:
If a UJ is shot, greasing it may get rid of the squeak, but will not stop it failing dramatically.

Yep noted. Thanks. They look relatively simple to assess for wear.

Searching around online I found a Youtube Video where the guy's P38 has an almost identical squeak to mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0pQ4A1wWAA

So with that in mind I think I will change the diff oil in both too.

Cheers

wammers · May 31, 2015

JamesBB said:
Yep noted. Thanks. They look relatively simple to assess for wear.

Searching around online I found a Youtube Video where the guy's P38 has an almost identical squeak to mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0pQ4A1wWAA

So with that in mind I think I will change the diff oil in both too.

Cheers

To check props for play, lift one front wheel to check front one. Then double scotch a wheel and lift one back wheel to check rear one. You can't check for play with weight on the props. Also check output bearings on transfer box and pinion bearings on diffs for play.

JamesBB · May 31, 2015

wammers said:
To check props for play, lift one front wheel to check front one. Then double scotch a wheel and lift one back wheel to check rear one. You can't check for play with weight on the props. Also check output bearings on transfer box and pinion bearings on diffs for play.

Double scotch? It is not even lunchtime, and what if I prefer bourbon?
Double chock?

So with in neutral, one front wheel on an axle stand and then move it to one rear? Transfer box?

Cheers

wammers · May 31, 2015

JamesBB said:
Double scotch? It is not even lunchtime, and what if I prefer bourbon?
Double chock?

So with in neutral, one front wheel on an axle stand and then move it to one rear? Transfer box?

Cheers

Wheel scotch blocks, AGADOS, spol. s r.o. You could use the scotches in the boot.

tomcat59alan · May 31, 2015

JamesBB said:
Double scotch? It is not even lunchtime, and what if I prefer bourbon?
Double chock?

So with in neutral, one front wheel on an axle stand and then move it to one rear? Transfer box?

Cheers

T/box is the big lump that the prop shafts bolt to.

JamesBB · May 31, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
T/box is the big lump that the prop shafts bolt to.

I know that

I guess that would need to be in a neutral gear too?

Thanks

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