anchor plates on brake shoes

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new landy 3 man

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Manchester
Good evening,Could someone please tell me if the brake shoe anchor plates/ tennis rackets, should be on all four wheel axles or just the rears, as mine are only on the rears ,on looking on line I have seen them on the rear axles but some without on the fronts. Does it matter on which shoe the anchor plates fit on. My series has the 10inch brakes with single wheel cylinder per wheel. just trying to get everything correct because having great
problems trying to get brakes.Every thing has new parts used 3 litres of fluid bleeding with no sucess,even with ezzi bleed also every method listed on this forum.Thanks Steve
 
This shows on all 4 wheels the anchor should stop the brake shoe nearest rear lifting off its seat
A good way of seeing where the air is , is to clamp off the flexi hoses and see if pedal goes hard then remove one by one have you got springs correct, what’s happening when you press pedal


D0EC060B-D56A-4C23-84AE-FA7221005426.png
 
HI Steve2286w When 3 flexes clamped pedal solid remove rear clamped flex pedal still solid. remove one front flex pedal moves slightly. remove the other flex moves slightly but pedal spongy seems like air but cannot get rid of it completely tried 101 ways. springs all correct Regards Steve
 
You have probably got rid of all the air and prob is something else, if pedal,goes down a bit before brakes start then check adjusted( which I guess you have done) , check pedal height, check master cylinder free play, I have 11 inch drums on mine, with 2 wheel cylinders per wheel and the springs do not go from shoe to shoe but shoe to post this allows the piston to move out a bit and get closer to drum so when you brake pedal acts quicker, is the servo working
 
All 4 axles should have the anchor plate bolted to the rear shoe [although they seam fine either way] To bleed first adjust shoes up tight, then back off until wheel turns.
I prefer the wait and see bleeding method, just open a bleed nipple and wait for a bubble free flow to come out and shut,repeat for the other three.Start at the wheel furthest from the reservoir,important the res is kept full at all times. This should take no more than 10 mins. If nothing comes out or continual air something is wrong.
 
newlandyman is your master set up with the correct freeplay between pushrod and master?
With pedal up on spring should be a couple of mm play at piston this is to allow the recuperating valve in master let more fluid enter.
 
Blackburn said:
newlandyman is your master set up with the correct freeplay between pushrod and master?
With pedal up on spring should be a couple of mm play at piston this is to allow the recuperating valve in master let more fluid enter.
Click to expand...

Thanks. for all comments . all parts setup to workshop manual. will check everything again. Thanks Steve
 
steve2286w said:
whats it like on the road, does it stop in a straight line without pulling to one side and quick enough
Click to expand...
Hi ,never been on road yet I bought this landy nearly two years ago to restore /new chassis bulkhead. axle swivels .brakes , master cyl,wheel cylinders.drums etc.now about1/4 way finished.Regards Steve
 
sounds good project being done well , are you gonna put some pics up , bear in mind the other thread on wheel cylinders standing without being used, might be better leaving wheel cylinders till the end
 
Back plates are becoming like hens teeth. Cheapest I've found 3 months ago is £75 (Dunsfold) . Craddocks quote £125. It's a discontinued part which I find astonishing given it's recurring purpose.
 
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