amr 4974 Siren.

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Grimmer

THE Winner
Soooooooooooooooo, get home this afternoon, minding my own business, turn ignition off and alarm starts sounding with smoke pouring out the front of the passenger side wing..... What the actual fook??
After a very brief panic, I jumped out and managed to disconnect the battery.
Alarm still blaring....... managed to quieten the alarm down with some rag and after calming down a bit I did some investigating, alarm also stopped after a couple of minutes.
So in the passenger wing is 'amr 4974' with the connector all melted and fooked:eek::eek::eek::eek:.
So I've removed the siren and insulated what's left of the connector with tape.
Everything seems to be working absolutely fine now, but will this cause any further issues? Do I need to replace this siren or not?
Any help would be most appreciated chapso_Oo_O.
 
Many out there with alarms disconnected, however have you stated that your vehicle has a factory fitted alarm as part of your insurance renewal as that could cause some 'issues' if it were broken in to or stolen. From memory one wire is a permanent +12v for alarm sounder battery charging, one is an earth, another is the alarm trigger from the alarm box to the sounder and the other is err, em I've forgotten !:oops:
 
I don't think so, I'm pretty sure I've said 'Aftermarket cat 1' alarm on my insurance.
Do you actually have a separate Cat 1 alarm system, AMR4974 is a standard LR battery back up alarm sounder and I don't think it would qualify for Cat 1 status as I don't think standard LR alarms of this era have tilt sensors (although I could be wrong), plus it wouldn't be an aftermarket one if it was fitted by the manufacturer. When my sounder packed up I replaced it to keep the alarm / immobiliser fully working so I could get the insurance discount (don't know what % that is though) - just something to have a think about.
 
Sorry, yes, there's a Cobra something or another fitted as well;)
In that case I would just sort out the melted bits (cut them off) and fit heatshrink or similar to the wires to stop them shorting against the chassis (don't forget there is a permanent and a switched live somewhere in those 4 wires)
 
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