Am i mad

steve2286w · Sep 1, 2007

gotmy series 3 diesel through mot, taxed today and took it out for 40 mile test run, stopped at halfords on way back and stopped for 3mins in that time a 5 inch dia poll of oil looks like coming from bellhousing drain hole
when got home the engine oil apparently had risen from nrmal to danger level on stick, water ok clean and no loss
is there a route from gbox for to engine for oil

Rowan Clearwater · Sep 1, 2007

Try slackening your engine oil sump plug a bit and see what comes out. If it's water, you've got to take it's head off. - Knackered head gasket would cause pressurisation of the crankcase, and if the output seal is worn, it'll shove the oil through that into your clutch housing by the bucketload. - Two major jobs for the price of one. Just my guess.

G-man · Sep 2, 2007

steve2286w said:
is there a route from gbox for to engine for oil

in a word no, was it engine oil under the motor? has a 'helpfull' mot tester topped up the oil?

clivees · Sep 3, 2007

steve2286w said:
3mins in that time a 5 inch dia poll of oil

Your luckey that it passed the MOT or your tester was kind to you caus thats a fail.

steve2286w · Sep 3, 2007

thanks for tips, stopped the major leaks by nipping up sump and rocker cover bolts, the oil coming out of drain hole is gear oil( easier to clean hands) just drained a pint of oil out of of sump, nice clean black?, and put a bit back in gbox, the headgasket was done by previous owner just before i got it so confident thats ok. had my eye on mot tester at retest he didnot top up oil as i had to because it was on min on forst test, he probably missed the leaks with the distraction of all the other things it failed on or it was not fully warmed up. im thnking ill need to take gbox out as it crunches a bit, gets stuck in gear and sometines difficulty engaging 1st and rev also a chance to check clutch

slob · Sep 3, 2007

steve2286w said:
thanks for tips, stopped the major leaks by nipping up sump and rocker cover bolts, the oil coming out of drain hole is gear oil( easier to clean hands) just drained a pint of oil out of of sump, nice clean black?, and put a bit back in gbox, the headgasket was done by previous owner just before i got it so confident thats ok. had my eye on mot tester at retest he didnot top up oil as i had to because it was on min on forst test, he probably missed the leaks with the distraction of all the other things it failed on or it was not fully warmed up. im thnking ill need to take gbox out as it crunches a bit, gets stuck in gear and sometines difficulty engaging 1st and rev also a chance to check clutch

sounds more like yer clutch is stuffed if yer having difficulty wiff 1st and rev

G-man · Sep 3, 2007

oil leaks are NOT part of the test if it is leaking really bad the tester can abort the test or refuse to test the vehicle on safety grounds but that is about as far as they can go on leaks.
check the hydraulics of the clutch first my one was messing about and it was caused by a weak mastercylinder

steve2286w · Sep 8, 2007

Thanks Slob/Gman
deffo duff clutch confirmed today, sticky gears creeping forward in gear with clutch pedal down, no fluid in master cylinder, removed it and slave cylinder
the seals were shot and very very soft, i had been using halfords dot 4 universal brake and clutch fluid is this ok to use or do i need the pucker girling stuff, i had heard some fliuds were not compatible

Codbasher · Sep 9, 2007

Dunno if its the same for cars, but on the Truck MOT its OK for an oil leak, so long as its minor, and not causing or give the tester reason to believe that it drips, think all wagon owners tend to crap em selves at MOT time!

I know one guy who parked his unit on a housing estate, cleaned any oil from a leaking diff, before head 1/2 mile to test station, he was first one booked, got to station early, tester passed him, but testers last words, with a wink in his eye was "Next time mate dont park outside my house wiping the oil off it"

G-man · Sep 9, 2007

dot 4 is backwards compatable with dot 3 stuff, dot 5.1 is different and you won't need to use it as your not in a race car. You can mix dot 3 with dot 4 but not with dot 5.1, dot 4 fluid is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs water out of the air which leads to corrotion in systems and the fade you feel in long brake use is caused by the fluid becoming hot and thinner the more water in thefluid the more pronounced the effect
but manufacturer has little to do with the quality of the fluid as they all have to conform to the same basic requirements to get certified

slob · Sep 9, 2007

G-man said:
dot 4 is backwards compatable with dot 3 stuff, dot 5.1 is different and you won't need to use it as your not in a race car. You can mix dot 3 with dot 4 but not with dot 5.1, dot 4 fluid is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs water out of the air which leads to corrotion in systems and the fade you feel in long brake use is caused by the fluid becoming hot and thinner the more water in thefluid the more pronounced the effect
but manufacturer has little to do with the quality of the fluid as they all have to conform to the same basic requirements to get certified

so you could just use dik17 as he's certified

CharlesY · Sep 10, 2007

G-man said:
.............. the fade you feel in long brake use is caused by the fluid becoming hot and thinner the more water in thefluid the more pronounced the effect

Drum brakes are INTERNAL EXPANDING brakes, which is a bad plan. Classic brake fade in the olden days of drum brakes happened when the linings and brake drums got extremely hot, and the drums expanded AWAY FROM the linings, so the pedal went down more as the drums got hotter. Drums bright red hot in competition cars was quite common, even in 850 Minis way back then. If the linings were over-heated they could break down and emit clouds of dusty asbetossy smoke, and this formed a layer between the lining and the drum and the brakes just stopped working. Brake fluid overheating was more or less unheard of in drum brakes.

With DISC brakes, you have external contracting brakes and the only expansion is the thickness of a disc which is zilch, but the fluid can get very hot indeed because the pad gets so hot. Hence better quality fluids these days. But if water gets into the fluid in a very hot caliper the water can BOIL into little steam bubbles, and these being gaseous can be compressed, and your feel on the pedal is that ghastly sinking feeling as the brake pedal goes down but the car speed goes up .... and you heading for disaster .......

CharlesY

Am i mad

steve2286w

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