P38A Alluminium panel corrosion treatment.

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Hi, looking to do some minor bodywork paint repairs. After rubbing down and prepping, has anyone come across a decent corrosion treatment for the white oxidation that occurs on the P38 body skin.
Used Jenolite on steel in the past, but this might not work the same on here..
 
Rub it back to solid/shiny material and use a good etch primer, that should stop the corrosion dead in its tracks.







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Rub down to bright metal, wash with solvent, coat with etch primer immediately or within half an hour at the most.
 
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Hi, looking to do some minor bodywork paint repairs. After rubbing down and prepping, has anyone come across a decent corrosion treatment for the white oxidation that occurs on the P38 body skin.
Used Jenolite on steel in the past, but this might not work the same on here..

You need to find where the attached steel is oxidising. Insulate the ally from the steel and protect the steel. I have wondered about that aquasteel and whether I could get it down the chassis legs. My chassis is just starting to show surface rust on the outside and ideally I'd like to stop it in its tracks.
 
Zinc on alloy? I think not.
This is the problem. I haven't found anything that directly relates to chemically treating these "Ally" skins. Sounds like down to shiny metal and etch primer as suggested here and 'Wammers'..
 
This is the problem. I haven't found anything that directly relates to chemically treating these "Ally" skins. Sounds like down to shiny metal and etch primer as suggested here and 'Wammers'..

Look up Alodine but it's nasty stuff. Used in the aircraft industry amongst others. A good etch primer should do the job. As long as it is applied before an oxidised layer reforms after cleaning.
 
We used to use a thing called yellow chromate in the navy. Very easy to apply to clean aluminium, used to etch and protect. Stood up to lots of seawater.
 
Look up Alodine but it's nasty stuff. Used in the aircraft industry amongst others. A good etch primer should do the job. As long as it is applied before an oxidised layer reforms after cleaning.
Hi,
Looks like Alodine is only available across the pond. Some in US some, in Canada. Keeping on looking but may just have to go for a good prep and etch primer as you suggested.
 
+ 1 on the oxidation, top notch pointy head I worked for showed me aluminium starting to form oxides within a couple of minutes of being cut, can't see it with the naked eye until about half an hour or so.
Cure the cause of it and then clean back to fresh and etch prime ASAP.
 
Silly question no doubt, but when you say etch asap after wash-down I assume the surface needs to be dry though ?
get-out-leave.gif :p
 
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