AIR SUSPENSION COMPRESSOR TICK-TOCK NOISE

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lrjohn

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Location
Suffolk
Someone answering this question properly deserves a prize!

Bought a 2002 Discovery 2 yesterday, previous owner had converted it from air to coil springs at the rear and simply removed the fuse appropriate to the air suspension rather than having the ECU reprogrammed to 'spring'. Drives absolutely fine, brought it home yesterday and I am slowly going over it checking it out.
Absolutely no strange noises when I checked it over before buying, or when I got it home yesterday until this morning.
I walked past it and I could hear a tick-tock noise like a relay operating, tracked it down to the housing that holds the air suspension compressor which the previous owner left in but as mentioned removed fuse. As I opened the passenger door tick-tock noise went, closed it started again - I'm assuming this might be because all circuits to the height adjustment are disconnected if there is a door open??
What I couldn't work out is why the car wasn't making that noise yesterday, then I thought about the trickle charger I had on the battery – removed that and the tick-tock noise went.
What I'm really confused about is how could any electric circuit be making its way to the compressor area when the fuse for that circuit is been removed – does it pick up electricity from other auxiliary circuits and why would it only be making a noise with a trickle charger connected to the battery?
Total mystery but indicates to me I need to perhaps remove further electrical connections so that the redundant air suspension circuits don't inadvertently cause battery drain,
any ideas?
 
Your battery is knackered;). put the air suspension back in and all will be fine:p:D.

The self leveling is trying to do its normal so suspect its not been converted fully/properly:).

J
 
Your battery is knackered;). put the air suspension back in and all will be fine:p:D.

The self leveling is trying to do its normal so suspect its not been converted fully/properly:).

J
Don't believe is the battery, checked it out with a tester, 90% fit
Point is the fuse for the air suspension is removed, so how can it be attempting to self level, operate?
 
Don't believe is the battery, checked it out with a tester, 90% fit
Point is the fuse for the air suspension is removed, so how can it be attempting to self level, operate?

It’s a LR;).
Does the disco have the same relay as the P38? Is it powered from only 1 fuse?

J
 
When plugged in to a chrager it thinks the engine is running so will attempt to operate the compressor to level the suspension. The voltage drop will then cause it to realise the engine isnt running and it will stop, then it will start again and so on. The fuse removed obviously wasnt the one controlling the SLABS ecu as thats needed for other things that SLS. So plug it in and disable it properly.
 
Someone answering this question properly deserves a prize!

Bought a 2002 Discovery 2 yesterday, previous owner had converted it from air to coil springs at the rear and simply removed the fuse appropriate to the air suspension rather than having the ECU reprogrammed to 'spring'. Drives absolutely fine, brought it home yesterday and I am slowly going over it checking it out.
Absolutely no strange noises when I checked it over before buying, or when I got it home yesterday until this morning.
I walked past it and I could hear a tick-tock noise like a relay operating, tracked it down to the housing that holds the air suspension compressor which the previous owner left in but as mentioned removed fuse. As I opened the passenger door tick-tock noise went, closed it started again - I'm assuming this might be because all circuits to the height adjustment are disconnected if there is a door open??
What I couldn't work out is why the car wasn't making that noise yesterday, then I thought about the trickle charger I had on the battery – removed that and the tick-tock noise went.
What I'm really confused about is how could any electric circuit be making its way to the compressor area when the fuse for that circuit is been removed – does it pick up electricity from other auxiliary circuits and why would it only be making a noise with a trickle charger connected to the battery?
Total mystery but indicates to me I need to perhaps remove further electrical connections so that the redundant air suspension circuits don't inadvertently cause battery drain,
any ideas?
Mine was the same, you must set the SLABS ecu to coils with a Nanocom or similar. Magically, your problem will disappear!!
 
When plugged in to a chrager it thinks the engine is running so will attempt to operate the compressor to level the suspension. The voltage drop will then cause it to realise the engine isnt running and it will stop, then it will start again and so on. The fuse removed obviously wasnt the one controlling the SLABS ecu as thats needed for other things that SLS. So plug it in and disable it properly.

Yes, thanks, that makes sense though the fuse removed is clearly air suspension as it has that symbol on the fuse board cover, so how the compressor can have any power is strange.i will run the engine today and see if the same tick noise still there. I'm going to contact a local independent LR place to see if they can switch the ECU data to spring
 
Yes, thanks, that makes sense though the fuse removed is clearly air suspension as it has that symbol on the fuse board cover, so how the compressor can have any power is strange.i will run the engine today and see if the same tick noise still there.
The fuse is only for the compressor(pump) relay, the thicking noise you hear comes from the solenoid valves which dont have a fuse, they are managed by the SLABS ECU directly, untill you get it reprogrammed for coils remove the compressor assy's cover and unplug all the 4 electrical connectors there(be aware that they have retaining clips at the valves)... then the noise will stop and the battery drain will be less
 
The fuse is only for the compressor(pump) relay, the thicking noise you hear comes from the solenoid valves which dont have a fuse, they are managed by the SLABS ECU directly, untill you get it reprogrammed for coils remove the compressor assy's cover and unplug all the 4 electrical connectors there(be aware that they have retaining clips at the valves)... then the noise will stop and the battery drain will be less

That makes sense now - thanks! I will see about getting the ECU reset :)
 
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