Freelander 1 Air and Filters.... Help Please

1) We have one of these but the tip doesn't connect to anything. Is that right?

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2) We will be replacing the air filter this weekend, which I can work out where it goes, so that should be ok,

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3) This EGR device at the front of the manifold.... Ours is covered in a bit of oil and, perhaps more worryingly, the air intake pipe to the left of the manifold when facing it has been tightened down with a cable tie. What's best to do? Go down the blanking plate route? If so, any recommendations would be most helpful. What should it do and what effect will there be if we remove the oily mushroom?

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hd3 said:

a long allen key be useful .. for the rear bolts ( they're captive 'n won't drop out )



if u want a better responsive engine when pulling out of junctions ..
get rid of the egr device ..
the delete unit for the td4 looks like attached pic:
View attachment 125699
it's important to get 1 that has that disc-stick attached ..
as that fits to the exhaust feed sealing off the e.gas

trouble with the egr unit is that it gunks up ..
result .. crap performance .. crap mpg ..
also the valve stem is just another restriction to the airflow
( although .. that a.f. is pressurised ..
( some go for the cheaper option of ..
( disconnecting and blocking the egr vacuum feed hose
( cleaning the egr valve itself .. and re-using the unit

for even better out-of-juction response from the engine ..
do the air-intake mod ( link at bottom of sig. )
'looks' aint important .. what is .. be the airflow ..
and air temp .. i.e. the ducting and a.i.t sensor housing should be insulated from heat
result be that the incoming air accelerates quicker over/thru the maf sensor
this allows more fuel to be injected at the driver's command ( i.e. go-pedal )
( slow air flow over/thru the maf results in the engine not responding
( as the driver might wish .. i.e. their foot movement on pedal
( the ecu responds differently according to rate of pedal movement
( as it does to pedal position

the above should work out cheaper than either a remap or quality tuning box
( and the intake-mod also makes it far quicker to remove the air-filter housing .. )

also .. unless you think you need it ( e.g. off-roading etc. )
removing the foam-surround from the new-air filter ..
aids airflow towards the maf sensor ..

if u want a stronger overtake potential .. add a tuning box ( e.g. synergy 2a + pierburg maf )
or get it remapped ..

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