Advice required for several Landy problems....

Ok, I have a 90 on a '97 plate which has been lifted and had various mods by previous owner. I have had a few teething problems in the first year which have been mainly cosmetic but have now found a couple of "issues" which may need advice as to whether I can I do them myself (I am amateur at best but have a good go when I have an actual diagnosis) or if I need some forum help from friendly locals!
Problem 1 - When handbrake is engaged there is a fair bit of slipping until the vehicle actually stops moving if on an incline. I have been read that there is a seal near the gearbox which may need replacing which may solve the problem? It does eventually stop after a couple of applications of the footbrake....?
Problem 2 - Steering feels like it is aquaplaning when I apply heavy brakes. I have located a 32mm bolt which needed tightening just under the swan neck but this only marginally improved it, will I need to replace the entire steering arms/bushes and will this make the required difference?
Problem 3 - Leaking clutch, fairly sure it is the master slave, is this relatively easy and what are the pitfalls?
Any advice would be massively welcome, I was born and raised in West Wales about two miles from Strata Florida where I have just discovered the green lane on my last trip....wanting to take my little boy home to have a bit of fun in a few weeks so looking to fix her up!

1 - How many clicks of the handbrake lever does it take to hold the vehicle? Is the lever nearly vertical when it does hold? If so then it should just be a simple adjustment needed on the back of the drum. How much does the vehicle move btw? Because a bit of movement is normal after applying the handbrake, especially on hills.
3 - Where is the leak? in the footwell or on the ground? Master cylinder change is straightforward enough. I think you can change it without taking the pedalbox out but when I did it I took it all out, but getting it in and out past all the pipes etc was a fiddle. It's a good idea to change both cylinders at the same time. When taking the slave out hold the rod so it doesn't unclip from the arm(if it hasn't already)

hand brake locks the rear prop so you have the play in the axle to be taken up hence it rolls a little first
output seal on rear of transfer box can contaminate hand brake drum look to see if drum looks dry especially were it meets back plate
check all the bushes ,joints ,brakes etc
its better to remove the pedal box

Thank you both, she rolls a good foot or so when the handbrake is applied so will take your advice and have a look at the drum.
Steering is a little worrying, should I just replace the whole lot from teh swan neck to the rods to be on the safe side....It does improve when I tightened the nut on the swan neck (the 32mm beastie)
Will change both cylinders as suggested and will look at taking the pedal box out....are there any good links to show how to go about this?

Which side of Leatherhead are you? Are you driving it and are you anywhere near Dorking soon?

I am just south of you in Sussex and I have the tool to change the drop arm/swan neck ball joint if you change that (I did and I made loads of difference)

Boguing, Yes it is driving and I can pop to Dorking, evenings probably best?

Offer of tool for drop arm appreciated and may take you up on it!

Just bung us a PM if you decide you need to use it

The biggest improvement to the steering feel at I got was by changing the bearings in the steering swivels. I used to be able to tell when I was doing 70 without looking at the speedo because it felt all floaty and wavery. On replacing the bearings top and bottom both sides it is now steady way beyond any speed legal to drive on a public highway. Of course, changing ball joints helps too and is worth doing if you're unsure how old they are.

I've sent you a message with my number.