P38A A/C....next logical move?

Around 18 months ago I had the ac regassed at kwikfit as it wasn't working, it then did, yay! But only for a few weeks, boo!.
Took it to my local indy and they reported condensor leaking, I fitted a new condensor and new pipe between compressor and condensor(a known mod is to fit the earlier deeper condensor as the later type is not available but needs the new pipe too plus a bit of bracket trimming). Back to the indy and reported no leaks and regassed the system, all working yay!
First hot day this year and it's not working again, boo!
Yesterday I poked the filler valve? The one on the bulkhead with the black plastic screw on cap and there is no gas.
I don't want to be coughing up every year and I want to appear a little knowledgeable to an ac guy and make a knowledgeable suggestion of some how testing the system a little better for leaks without sounding like a tit. I've got a uv torch which I was going to shine around stuff tonight when it's darker but I don't know if the indy even put dye in .

If nothing shows on your UV torch while you are out in the dark (checking my AC officer honest) then regas it and make sure he puts in dye . Or at least finds a leak, and still puts dye in.

Has it been on over winter use? We don't even turns ours off.

J

marjon said:

If nothing shows on your UV torch while you are out in the dark (checking my AC officer honest) then regas it and make sure he puts in dye . Or at least finds a leak, and still puts dye in.

Has it been on over winter use? We don't even turns ours off.

J

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Over winter no. Yes....I now know I should leave it on always but as the wife says " you never bloody listen!"

Any green oil traces around the charging valves,
the compressor,
the switches behind the bumper, the dryer bottle connections,
The expansion valve on the bulk head,
The condensor rad,
The pipes.....

Even the rad in the dash can develop a leak but a sniff tester would be needed for that once charged with gas

If you can't find anything obvious with UV torch, check the compressor behind the clutch. It's fairly easy to remove. Mine was leaking around the shaft where it exits the compressor body. The dye was only visible after removing the clutch.

pwood999 said:

If you can't find anything obvious with UV torch, check the compressor behind the clutch. It's fairly easy to remove. Mine was leaking around the shaft where it exits the compressor body. The dye was only visible after removing the clutch.

View attachment 318758

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Mines the diesel, looks a bugger to get at though.

Flossie said:

Mines the diesel, looks a bugger to get at though.

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I run both mine with no viscous fan or cowl so the compressor is fairly easy to get at.

What's the charge weight of the system? ~600g? so an average of just over 1g a day loss, obviously more when the system is fully charged and running - that amount should be detectable, a decent 'sniffer' will detect a leak rate of 4 grammes a year. On top of the already mentioned 'usual suspects, check hose joints, pipe joints, potential rubbing points and pipe clamps for corrosion and friction. Even if you refill it with UV dye and Nitrogen, there will be enough residual refrigerant for a sniffer to detect it and enough pressure for the compressor to circulate the Nitrogen + UV dye to the point of the leak. Personally I wouldn't bother with a soap spray unless you have a good indoor working area and the weather (and the vehicle) is cool enough so as not to evaporate the water within a few minutes - with a small leak, it can take a while to form any noticeable bubbles.

Sniffer...not heard of one of them before. Guess I need to ring around and find a place that has one.
How do they work these sniffer things?

They all have a pump that draws air in from a tube, the better ones have an IR chamber, the receiver is tuned to recognise the 'signature' of laser deflection by refrigerant particles, the cheaper ones (which only work with R134A - your refrigerant) have a small sensor in the end of the pickup tube, which is a 'consumable' and relies on change of conductivity in the presence of refrigerant, they're also less sensitive.
Ask if their sniffer also works with R1234-YF, if so, it's a laser type and will be better suited.

OK, Ta.
Just been out with the uv torch and lots of stuff is glowing, sticky labels on the ac pipe, oil stains and finger prints! Nowt looking like a leak though but I can't see the compressor connections, too much stuff in the way, everything else looked OK but I'm not convinced to be honest. I've found a place near me that talks the talk on their Google found advert so I'll give them a call and see what they say.

EAC (telford) is the place I've found.
Screenshot off their website.

You can get the equivalent of Radweld for A/C systems which can be very effective.

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