'98 Defender 110 TD5, Often refuses to start, then runs without key in!

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CaptainHair

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NOTE: Quick-summery at the bottom of this post, incase you don't want to read through my entire essay!

Howdy fellas, just gotten a 1998 Td5 110 County and I'm having some difficulty with it, any and all suggestions are welcome. I've only ever had Minis so I'm a bit clueless with specifics but I've got plenty of tools and willing so I'm hoping I can get it sorted.

Right, so we've owned Lunk (the landy) for about 3 weeks now. About a week in I turned the key, waited for the plugs to warm, then turned key to pos. 3 and got a firm and resounding *click*. Doesn't even attempt to turn over, it just outright refuses as if something is stopping it. Possibly the Immobilizer? When it does this and fails to start you can no longer turn the key to pos. 3 and need to remove it and try again.

This can go on for 10-20 minutes until it simply decides to start up without any issues. Runs fine and no other problems show.

Now my mum uses the landy for popping to the stables everyday, well she used to but now that she risks getting permanently stuck there when it refuses to go, so shes back in the old Peugeot.

So since it wasn't even attempting to turn over, I went ahead and blamed the immobilizer as it felt like something was just overriding the landys will to start. I changed the key in the fob and it stopped doing it for a few days, but I think this was just coincidence and not actually fixing anything.

Its also worth noting that the doors/central locking are FUBAR, I can slam them shut and lock them manually but the central locking does nothing. Also the rear door was flying open when driving along as it refused to lock and tbh, it looks like its ready to fall off. But I crawled inside and tapped the lock shut with a hammer (I was gentle, honest!) so now its locked. I only mention this as I am not sure if the locking system is tied to the immobilizer in any way, so I thought it was worth a mention even though this post is getting a bit wordy!

Anyway so, yesterday we're about to head off and the bugger refused to start. So I'm out there trying every trick I can think of such as holding the disarm button whilst turning the key, disarming and rearming, locking all the doors and leaving it for 5 minutes, basicly anything I can think of.

Eventually I turn the key and she goes to start, finally! However she wouldn't turn over properly so after a few seconds I release the key as I didn't want to fry/overheat/flood/damage anything. The engine stopped but something in the engine bay kept going!

It had to be electric as the engine itself was not running, only things that sprung to mind were the starter motor or the fan. Sounded like a miniature washing machine is the best way I can describe the sound. After a few minutes of me trying to figure out how to access the battery, it dies. The motor just span down and stopped as if it had run the battery flat or worn out some component and switched off. It wasn't the fan because I popped the bonnet while it was making the noise and I couldn't see any components moving. So my initial guess was that the starter motor had slipped its cog or broken its shaft or whatever it is that they do that allows them to spin freely without actually turning the engine.

I decide to have a looksey in the fusebox just to investigate electrical problems in general and I find loose red/black/white wires. But I think these are just from the stereo, havn't had a chance to trace them yet. Anyway after giving it a general look-over, without fiddling with anything, my mate decides to give her another turn.

She starts first time, like right-on-the-button, better than she has ever started! She over the past couple of weeks she had gone from needing 2/3 turns to about 5/6 turns to start. Thought nothing of it as she is an old girl now. But now she starts right on the button. Stopping, however, is a different matter. You can take the keys out and she just keeps on running!

So she has gone from not wanting to start to not wanting to stop! I'm not going to run her again for a few days while I gather info/tools/etc as I don't want to risk damaging anything through my stupidity. Plus she needs some general work like topping off fluids and checking filters and such, so I'm not in a great rush. I'd rather figure this out and do the job proper, rather than rushing in trying to bodge it.

My current train of though thinks it could be: Starter Motor (Not likely as it still turns over and I wouldn't think the starter motor could keep the engine running once the key is out), Immobilizer (I thought this was the cause, now I think it could be the effect.), Ignition Barrel (I've heard this is tied to the immobilizer, which could explain it refusing to start and if the barrel is a bit dodgy perhaps it would keep the engine running as it wouldn't recognise the key was out?) or general wiring problems (Possible? I've known weird things to happen because of a few bad wires!).

I think thats the full story, if any more info is needed or anyone wants me to go check something I'm happy to do it. Thanks for any help/advice anyone can give :)

Short Summary: Refused to try and turn over for a couple of weeks, then almost started but failed yet something in the engine bay kept running (engine off), now starts but refuses to stop even with key removed!
 
Yeah, that does sound right. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything obvious/common.

My mechanic friend has been telling me that its turbo lag/turbo-run-on but that doesn't sound correct to me as the engine idles rather than revving up, plus it wouldn't explain all of the ignition issues.

So I guess I'm off outside to play with the multimeter for a bit. I've never actually used one on a car (only basic household electrics) so I'm not sure where to start. I'm thinking I should start by gaining access to the ignition barrel wiring and find out where they all lead to and check for continuity/splits/bad connections? That sounds right to me. I should perhaps also check the barrel itself, to make sure its making the right connections and such when the key turns?

Cheers :)

Tony
 
your first problem is the starter solenoid contacts burnt out.

You can spend a couple of hundred quid on a new starter motor but the motor part is pretty bullet proof so spending £10-£15 on a starter motor repair kit off ebay is a better bet.

LANDROVER DEFENDER TD5 STARTER MOTOR REPAIR KIT 98 on | eBay

The washing machine noise was either the rotary oil filter winding down or the starter motor sticking. Without hearing it I can't tell you for sure but if it sounded like an electric motor winding down then it sounds like oil filter. If it was 'crackley' then I would say starter motor.

It sounds like the problem that you have now is that you have knackered the ignition switch by holding it in the crank position for so long.
 
Sorry I'm afraid I made a slight mistake, its a '96 not '98. My mate swore P reg was 98 but I checked and sure enough its '96. No unfortunately no easy-fix there.

I've uploaded a couple of videos of the poor girl as its better than me trying to describe it.
Here is the first one, showing what happened when I first went to start it: Land Rover Defender 110 TD5 fails to start. - YouTube
Here is the 2nd attempt, where shes a little sluggish but does start: Land Rover Defender 110 TD5 Starts - YouTube
And one of her running: Land Rover Defender 110 TD5 Running - YouTube

I don't ever hold the key for more than 2/3 seconds, so I'm not sure if that would have knackered the ignition switch, but then again I'm no expert. Plus as I said we have had to sit and try to make her go for 20 minutes so it has seen alot of use recently.

If I did have a knackered starter motor would she even turn over? There is an awful noise at the end of the first video which sounds to me like the starter. Its a different noise to the one that went on for 5 minutes with the engine off.

Unfortunately none of the videos actually show off the initial problems! But perhaps its best to diagnose it as-is and work from there. I'm trying to be as descriptive as I can, had hoped video footage would help. I really do appreciate it guys, thanks for the replies :)
 
Sorry I'm afraid I made a slight mistake, its a '96 not '98. My mate swore P reg was 98 but I checked and sure enough its '96. No unfortunately no easy-fix there.

I've uploaded a couple of videos of the poor girl as its better than me trying to describe it.
Here is the first one, showing what happened when I first went to start it: Land Rover Defender 110 TD5 fails to start. - YouTube
Here is the 2nd attempt, where shes a little sluggish but does start: Land Rover Defender 110 TD5 Starts - YouTube
And one of her running: Land Rover Defender 110 TD5 Running - YouTube

I don't ever hold the key for more than 2/3 seconds, so I'm not sure if that would have knackered the ignition switch, but then again I'm no expert. Plus as I said we have had to sit and try to make her go for 20 minutes so it has seen alot of use recently.

If I did have a knackered starter motor would she even turn over? There is an awful noise at the end of the first video which sounds to me like the starter. Its a different noise to the one that went on for 5 minutes with the engine off.

Unfortunately none of the videos actually show off the initial problems! But perhaps its best to diagnose it as-is and work from there. I'm trying to be as descriptive as I can, had hoped video footage would help. I really do appreciate it guys, thanks for the replies :)

It's not only a 1996/97 but it's also a 4 cylinder 300TDI engine and not a 5 cylinder TD5 engine so your thread is in completely the wrong place.:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
It's not only a 1996/97 but it's also a 4 cylinder 300TDI engine and not a 5 cylinder TD5 engine so your thread is in completely the wrong place.:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Oh... well blast. I'm really, really sorry about guys. I'm just a complete pillock I'm afraid!

I was so sure that I wasn't going to come across as a typical mis-posting newbie but lo and behold!

Again, really sorry guys. Should I just make a new post over in the 300TDI section, or PM a mod to move this? (Guess I've got alot of correcting to do too!)
 
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