300TDi cambelt change and fuel pump timing questions

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Goliath205

New Member
Posts
9
Location
Bristol, UK
Hi there,

My Discovery 1 doesn't seem to be running at it's best, it's a little sluggish! Also I have no history of a cambelt change so I thought I would kill 2 birds with 1 stone and get the cambelt changed and at the same time make sure the fuel pump timing is correct (before I start messing with any engine modifications/tuning).

I have not managed to find anyone local who can do it so I plan to tackle it myself. It's a bit out of my comfort zone but am happy to give it a go and hopefully learn a lot along the way.

I do have a few questions though:

1, What do I need to know when buying a cambelt kit? There are some listed as 'modified' or 'updated', I gather that is something to do with the lower pulleys/idlers right? I'm assuming I need to make sure to get one of these kits?
2, What locking tools do I need for doing the cambelt AND the fuel pump timing (with a DTI gauge), is there 1 kit that will do both? I've been looking around and found a few different but having not done it before I can't tell if the kits have all the right stuff I need. Like this one... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...512197?hash=item544a486885:g:GggAAOSwstJZVNKs

3, Can anyone confirm what I need to set the pump timing to? My engine has EGR as standard so I believe that means the timing should be set to 140 (as opposed to 154 for the non EGR engines). However, I have blanked off my EGR so does that change what the timing should be set to?

4, I've heard of advancing the timing to help with other engine mods/tuning. I won't do this at first, as I just want everything to be set to standard as a bench mark, but when I do get to tuning what number do I set the pump timing to so it is then 'advanced'?

Thanks all!
 
That Dial indicator kit does not include the timing belt kit you need to set the and hold the timing whilst you change the belt.

Go for the modified kit, there are a few vids on youtibe taking you through doing the work.



Cheers
 
Goliath205 said:
Hi there,

My Discovery 1 doesn't seem to be running at it's best, it's a little sluggish! Also I have no history of a cambelt change so I thought I would kill 2 birds with 1 stone and get the cambelt changed and at the same time make sure the fuel pump timing is correct (before I start messing with any engine modifications/tuning).

I have not managed to find anyone local who can do it so I plan to tackle it myself. It's a bit out of my comfort zone but am happy to give it a go and hopefully learn a lot along the way.

I do have a few questions though:

1, What do I need to know when buying a cambelt kit? There are some listed as 'modified' or 'updated', I gather that is something to do with the lower pulleys/idlers right? I'm assuming I need to make sure to get one of these kits?
2, What locking tools do I need for doing the cambelt AND the fuel pump timing (with a DTI gauge), is there 1 kit that will do both? I've been looking around and found a few different but having not done it before I can't tell if the kits have all the right stuff I need. Like this one... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...512197?hash=item544a486885:g:GggAAOSwstJZVNKs

3, Can anyone confirm what I need to set the pump timing to? My engine has EGR as standard so I believe that means the timing should be set to 140 (as opposed to 154 for the non EGR engines). However, I have blanked off my EGR so does that change what the timing should be set to?

4, I've heard of advancing the timing to help with other engine mods/tuning. I won't do this at first, as I just want everything to be set to standard as a bench mark, but when I do get to tuning what number do I set the pump timing to so it is then 'advanced'?

Thanks all!
Click to expand...
modified kit has guide lips on the crank pulley and not the tensioner pre modified was the other way round, id try fitting a new belt and ensuring basic belt timing is correct before using a dti
 
jamesmartin said:
modified kit has guide lips on the crank pulley and not the tensioner pre modified was the other way round, id try fitting a new belt and ensuring basic belt timing is correct before using a dti
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's useful to know!

Yes I plan to do the cambelt replacement first and time it up just using the timing 'pin' in the pump - then after that (and after running it for a few days) I will use the dial gauge to double check it is spot on.

That's the plan anyway!
 
Goliath205 said:
Thanks, that's useful to know!

Yes I plan to do the cambelt replacement first and time it up just using the timing 'pin' in the pump - then after that (and after running it for a few days) I will use the dial gauge to double check it is spot on.

That's the plan anyway!
Click to expand...
after belts on before you tighten the 3 pump pulley bolts using a spanner turn the large center pump nut clockwise against the timing pin then tighten the 3 bolts, pump pin is 9.5 mm you can use progressively smaller pins again holding the center nut clockwise against the pin as you tighten the 3 bolts ,optimum running is just before knock
 
In my experience the hardest part is getting the bolt out of the end of the crackshaft. You may need to think about how you will hold the pulley while you undo the bolt as it is very tight. I think a tool to hold the pulley/crankshatf is still available.
 
Sheffield said:
In my experience the hardest part is getting the bolt out of the end of the crackshaft. You may need to think about how you will hold the pulley while you undo the bolt as it is very tight. I think a tool to hold the pulley/crankshatf is still available.
Click to expand...

Is it safe to use an ugga dugga gun on it? If not i'll try and get hold of a tool, or make one!
 
In case you need the tool drawing from here a longtime ago attached
 

Attachments

  • Crank pulley holding tool credit Saint V8 landyzone..PNG
    Crank pulley holding tool credit Saint V8 landyzone..PNG
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my milwalkee battery gun undid mine easily. ( had a fully charged battery )

certainly it vibrates and shocks it i believe which helps rather than just pressure

would certainly try the gun first before purchasing a big spanner
 
Cavey_P38 said:
my milwalkee battery gun undid mine easily. ( had a fully charged battery )

certainly it vibrates and shocks it i believe which helps rather than just pressure

would certainly try the gun first before purchasing a big spanner
Click to expand...
impact guns work by hammer action not torque as with a bar hence you dont need to counter the leverage ie lock the shaft or pulley
these work using the same principle
images
 
Thanks for all the tips guys, I'm pretty sure undoing it won't be a problem with my makita gun (either the 285z or the 1002z), but not sure how I could get it torqued back up to spec when putting it back together.

I should be able to make a tool if I do need it, I'll see how I get on, hopefully I'll be tackling the job week after next!
 
Goliath205 said:
Thanks for all the tips guys, I'm pretty sure undoing it won't be a problem with my makita gun (either the 285z or the 1002z), but not sure how I could get it torqued back up to spec when putting it back together.

I should be able to make a tool if I do need it, I'll see how I get on, hopefully I'll be tackling the job week after next!
Click to expand...
apply loctte to the threads use the gun and hold the trigger for a little longer than socket has stopped turning, it wont come undone then if gun was strong enough to remove the bolt
 
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