2nd gear in cold weather

I have a 110 200 tdi. it runs ok but second gear plays up. When the car is cold or the weather is very cold then its fine no problem but when the car is warm second is stuff to get in. then sometime the gates are closed and it wont let me at all.
Any clues??
Cheers

I think its a fairly common problem when oils are cold. Have you changed gearbox oil recently?

it might be worth trying mtf (oil) in it where as atf is perfectly okay for most boxes sometimes mtf will improve gear change ,baulk rings are coated on later lt77s and it does wear off eventually effecting gear change unless its h suffix were they have compound baulk rings on 1st and 2nd these are prone to play up ,if mtf doesnt help baulk rings would need replacing to fix it

similar problem, but on 3rd more so.. is mtf all the same or is there a certain weight to get?

silly question ut were is the gearbox and how do i change the oil???

underneathe the hump in the floor, drain plug 11/4 or 32mm holds about 2.8 litres ,drain bung and filler on drivers side of vehicle,on lt77 theres an extra bung at rear and underneathe box on aliminun housing 24mm or 15/16 spanner size not drain bung but has cleanable filter inside,the biggest killer on gear boxes is not changing oil often enough .removing water and metal particles is very important , i would change all oils once a year unless real high mileage when more changes would be better ,you can see when you have boxes in pieces the difference

Any idea which is the best oil for a worn 140k lt77?

i use atf generally but do use mtf (manual transmission fluid ) if i think it might help with gear change especially if its temperature related ,i ues whatever motor factor ,partco ,andrew page ltd etc ie the best price at the time, but never use anything else as these are designed to run on thin oil because of oil pump and baulk rings

lockmj said:

silly question ut were is the gearbox and how do i change the oil???

Click to expand...

look in busters guides, there's a thread with pictures on how to do it

Was just chattng to the guy in local lr spesh shop, and explained the probs with by gearbox in previous thread, and he said it sounds like there is normal gear oil in it, so got a load of LR mtf. Let's hope it sorts it!

i hope my oil sorts it, i hust had an absolute nightmare gettin home in traffic! i just had to pull away in what ever gear i could get it in!

does the gear selection feel positive but hard to get in to gear or is it hard to find were gear is but will go in once you get the stick lined up

The 2nd one. It seems like there isn't a gear there, then it drops in after alot of wggleing. It goes into reverse ok, but then it takes ages to find first, keeps going into reverse again. I have to go into 2nd then throw it ded fast into first to get it in!
sorry for pinching the thread!

the cant find 1st goes into rev will be reverse plunger either needing shims removing or weak spring ,if you remove tunnel and remove gater off gear stick turret ,on drivers side you will see rev plunger bolted with 2x 13mm spanner sized bolts it stops you going past 1st it should be adjusted so that gear stick is aligned with 1st and 2nd gear ,2 x spring on top of turret either side need adjusting using 10 mm bolts up down to align gear stick in line with 3rd 4th gear alignment ,if you push gear stick to one side it should spring back to 3rd 4th

Ahhh perfect, il have to have a look, is it abig job removing the tunnel? Do you recon this will have any effect on it going into 3rd?
Cheers fella.

I think the fact that it has slowly got worse over the week that I have owned it.

if baulk rings are worn probably not but if gear stick not set correctly they can be hard to select gear as by the time you find it gear speeds are further away from each other,to remove tunnel ,first take off gear stick 17 mm nut then all screws from tunnel prise off ,remove foam and gater to get tl gear stick turret

Just nipped out and I cam get 3rd much better if I put it in what seems to be inbetween 3rd and 4th ( just to the right of 3rd) so hopefuly it will just be the gearstick setting. Ate the baulk ring the chamfered rings that spin the next gear up to speed?

kind of each gear is free to spin on mainshaft ,snchro hubs are splined to shaft ,each gear has a ring of dog teeth these are coffin shaped ,each synchro hub has a sleeve with coffin shaped teeth which slide over gear dog teeth to lock gear to mainshaft giving you that gear ,to match the speed of hub and gear ,gear has cone in front of dog teeth and betwween hub and gear is baulk ring which is aldo cone shaped and has triangled shape teeth ,hub pushes baulk ring against gear cone aligning speeds and the triangle teeth aline synchro hub sleeve to gear dog teeth,dog teeth are coffin shaped so that they teeth can mesh going into gear and so tha=t when your in gear the greater the power the more there pulled into gear ,this can be seen when holding gear stick and accelerating you can feel gear stick been pulled further into gear ,apart from late series 3s there gear teeth were straight a dont have this effect and can jump out of gear if accelerating too hard or slowing down too quick

Ahh right yeh. Nice one! Take it you have rebuilt a box!? I always thaught the stick moved because the gears are helical and not straight cut.