200tdi chassis repair or replace

laruler · Jun 6, 2019

Hi everyone.
I just had my mot on my 1992 200tdi defender, and it failed on rusty rear chassis.
I wanted some advice on what I should do.
It has a bad rust damage just after the rear suspension mount looks like a previous repair. Also right at the rear crossmember.
I wanted to replace the whole rear quarter but only can find a 1998 onwards one on bearmach.
Could I use that on a 1992 chassis or is there somewhere that sells one for my chassis.
Or should I just patch that bit and get a new rear crossmember.
I have included pictures of the area the mot test centre marked up.

lynall · Jun 6, 2019

I think you will find that rot goes further forward than what you can see, can you get a half chassis?
Cheap boroscope and take a look inside the rest of the chassis.

doriz · Jun 6, 2019

Get a new rear crossmember with the spring mount (aka a half chassis) and you'll sorted. Reasonable job to do, but will be worth it. Is the motor a daily driver or a toy and can you weld?

lynall · Jun 6, 2019

Ebay 250 quid Landrover Defender 90 tdi rear 1/4 chassis RCP22

mick 1986 · Jun 7, 2019

laruler said:
Hi everyone.
I just had my mot on my 1992 200tdi defender, and it failed on rusty rear chassis.
I wanted some advice on what I should do.
It has a bad rust damage just after the rear suspension mount looks like a previous repair. Also right at the rear crossmember.
I wanted to replace the whole rear quarter but only can find a 1998 onwards one on bearmach.
Could I use that on a 1992 chassis or is there somewhere that sells one for my chassis.
Or should I just patch that bit and get a new rear crossmember.
I have included pictures of the area the mot test centre marked up.

Contact some of the places that sell chassis repair sections. Most of them said their sections won’t work for my 1992 200tdi 110, that’s what pushed me to buy a new galv chassis.

windy81 · Jun 7, 2019

New galv chassis is what I would do.

Your chassis looks beyond worse than mine, and i debated to fix mine, and whilst I tried to give it a go, what i found is that the rust went much further than it appeared, all on the inside of the box sections.
By the time I would have fixed it, I would more or less end up with a new rear half of my chassis completely which is un-galvanised with some existing rust in the front half probably waiting to kick me in the ass later on.

Also, what is never mentioned is how to keep the chassis straight and true when you cut all the rot out ? Do you have a jig ? All things considered it not as easy it first appears.

With the above in mind, a new galvanised chassis was a no-brainer, and i think you might find this out for yourself.

slomofo · Jun 7, 2019

Have you tried RCP?
https://en-gb.facebook.com/Replacement-Chassis-Parts-295205760673497/

laruler · Jun 7, 2019

Hi all thanks for getting back so quickly.
I had another look at the chassis today it worst is right behind the suspension mount where it was welded before. The other side of the mount the chassis looks good only a little surface rust then further forward the no rust.
I think I might get in touch with RCP for there rear quarter.
It's not a daily driver have not done much off roading.
Yes I can weld.

mick 1986 · Jun 7, 2019

laruler said:
Hi all thanks for getting back so quickly.
I had another look at the chassis today it worst is right behind the suspension mount where it was welded before. The other side of the mount the chassis looks good only a little surface rust then further forward the no rust.
I think I might get in touch with RCP for there rear quarter.
It's not a daily driver have not done much off roading.
Yes I can weld.

I would cut a small square out of the chassis first and see what it’s like inside. You can’t weld good steel to ****e/rust, so you may end up wasting money on a repair piece.

Disco1BFG · Jun 7, 2019

mick 1986 said:
I would cut a small square out of the chassis first and see what it’s like inside. You can’t weld good steel to ****e/rust, so you may end up wasting money on a repair piece.

+1 - and it is always worse where you can't see - I.E. on the inside. Given the state of the rear as shown in the OP's pictures, I'd suggest the majority of the rest of the chassis is toast, or so close to it that a new chassis is the way forward.

slomofo · Jun 7, 2019

I'd crawl underneath and give it some attention with a hammer at all the low points on the chassis rails, the dumb irons behind the front bumper, the gearbox crossmember (where it joins the chassis) and the outriggers.

While it may look OK externally, the internals of a chassis rail could be toast and very weak.

It might be take the pain for a re-chassis now vs. a 1/4 chassis followed by even more welding misery at the next MOT - or you could be fortunate and be sorted with just a new 1/4chassis.

Get the hammer out...

haza88 · Jun 7, 2019

From the pics I can see I wouldn’t even bother to get the welder out , what’s the front chassis like ?

doriz · Jun 7, 2019

I bought a £20 flexible camera off eBay which has a light and WiFi’s to your phone. Very surprised how good it was. I’d stick down the chassis rails to see where light shines in or worse. Good luck.

Shimsteriom · Jun 7, 2019

doriz said:
I bought a £20 flexible camera off eBay which has a light and WiFi’s to your phone. Very surprised how good it was. I’d stick down the chassis rails to see where light shines in or worse. Good luck.

Linky pleez

doriz · Jun 7, 2019

I can’t find it, just search for a 6 led wifi endoscope from a chap at Dunstable. When I had issues in the fuel tank I used it and it was a very clear picture.

Shimsteriom · Jun 7, 2019

Found one @ £26 from the other side of the world.
I'll give it go at that price.
Linky

doriz · Jun 7, 2019

Shimsteriom said:
Found one @ £26 from the other side of the world.
I'll give it go at that price.
Linky

That’ll do the job - honestly, for £20 I took a punt. Now it’s chucked in the tool box waiting for the next job.

Interceptorxj · Jun 7, 2019

Disco1BFG said:
+1 - and it is always worse where you can't see - I.E. on the inside. Given the state of the rear as shown in the OP's pictures, I'd suggest the majority of the rest of the chassis is toast, or so close to it that a new chassis is the way forward.[/QUOT]

+ 2, much as you want to be told it is all OK and a simple fix in reality it is foobarred. Don't waste your money on a 1/4 chassis. Evaluate the rest of the vehicle and if it's worth saving invest in a full chassis.

Disco1BFG · Jun 8, 2019

Interceptorxj said:
+ 2, much as you want to be told it is all OK and a simple fix in reality it is foobarred. Don't waste your money on a 1/4 chassis. Evaluate the rest of the vehicle and if it's worth saving invest in a full chassis.

Agreed. I hate stating the rather obvious - but, ..... if those pictures of the chassis are an indication of the results of the OP's maintenance "regime", then I would be quite concerned about the rest of it

laruler · Jun 8, 2019

Took some pictures of the other side of the suspension mount, the front is OK I had I garage weld that a couple of years ago when I had the engine and gearbox repaired.

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