200Di rough running above idle

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TheKeymeister

Active Member
Posts
772
Location
Lincolnshire
Problem number two! Finally came to the "magic moment" in my engine conversion, dobbed on the starter wire and it started in about 20 seconds, great I thought and jumped up and down everywhere. Oil pressure OK.

Gave it some revs, it seemed to accept it for about 5 seconds then sounds as though its running on three and rattling about like mad. Let go and give it some more and same thing happens.

Hoping it could be related to the other thing I noticed, it didn't stop straight away when I disconnected ignition. Power feed is OK as it's a brand new one run in so it's switching OK, pulled the wire off to the stop solenoid and it still ran on for a good 20 seconds before dieing.

This gives me a lot of things to check - just wondering if anyone could comment or suggest anything else...

-Possible stop solenoid sticking as per above

-Air leak in fuel pipes (they have all been replaced, but I replaced them with that thick walled universal type stuff and jubilees, so still possible)

-Lift pump no good - unlike the 2 1/4 engines I've had before, the hand pump didn't spring back - but it did pump OK - is this normal?

-Injectors or feed pipes no good

-Injector pump no good or timing out (shouldn't be as it was OK when removed from the disco)

-No exhaust connected to it at the moment (haven't got a jack man enough to lift it yet, and can't figure out a way to put in a series downpipe without having it in the air)

-Head gasket :(

Not after a definite answer as there's far too many variables here, just wondering if anyone can discount any of the above or suggest other things to check, and when I do fix it I'll post back with what it was... Cheers!
 
Sounds like you Deffinatly need a fuel cut off solinoid for a start, engine should die almost instant when that's off.
Try putting a piece of clear hose into the fuel line where it enters the pump, this will show you if you have any air entering the fuel pump, you will only ever get air entering the system before the pump not after due to it being under neg pressure so could suck in at a joint somewhere, after the pump the fuel is all pos pressure so nothing can enter the system just leak.
Back pressure from no exhust could also be a big part of your problem. Get it fitted up and see what happens.
At idle try spraying some carb clear or wd40 around all the manifold joint and any air pipes. If the revs lift then that is a sign of an air leak.
See how you get on with that lot to start with.
 
Hand pump not working isn't much of a indication of anything.

How's the fuel filter?
Is it properly bled?
Crud in the tank blocking the feed?

You could rig up a temp fuel feed from a can held higher than the filter to check pump/leaks.

Series exhaust is a smaller bore than a 200, don't know how much difference it makes but I didn't want to find out on mine.

Good luck and dont panic!
 
I would say fuel prob as well, mate had same on his 90 tdi conversion, was a dodgy connection at the fuel filter.
Exhaust wont make any difference to the idle or low speed running.
In fact i ran my s2 tdi on the original system for about 4 months, then when i made a new system it defo ran better at higher revs but hardly any difference at all at lower rpms


Lynall
 
Right, new fuel filter, new tank, new pick up pipe, new rubber fuel hoses all round. Hand pump pumps alright so assuming that's discounted. Have bled it up to the fuel filter- supposedly 200tdi is self bleeding? Couldn't see a bleed screw on injector pump but can try cracking injector unions anyway. Will also acquire some clear hose, sounds like itd be a decent permanent feature anyway...
Haven't had a chance to look yet, probably weekend now as its too dark an cold after work! :(
 
Right, new fuel filter, new tank, new pick up pipe, new rubber fuel hoses all round. Hand pump pumps alright so assuming that's discounted. Have bled it up to the fuel filter- supposedly 200tdi is self bleeding? Couldn't see a bleed screw on injector pump but can try cracking injector unions anyway. Will also acquire some clear hose, sounds like itd be a decent permanent feature anyway...
Haven't had a chance to look yet, probably weekend now as its too dark an cold after work! :(

Get on with ya tha wuss, just re-fitted my seatbox, floor, bulkhead panel, tunnel and seat with a torch :eek:

The injector pump is self bleeding but it might help to crack the injector unions. I'd double check the filter is full, sounds like air seeping in somewhere with all the new connections.
Clear pipes good.......try a gravity feed from a bottle
 
Ok, tried again today, decided I wasn't happy playing with it again until the wiring was straight - its now got a start button instead of dobbing a wire onto a live...

Tightened up a load of jubilee clips, I'm guessing due to the cold there was a bit of shrinkage going on...

It didn't want to start at all, got it running on about two cylinders and it stopped straight away when I turned the ignition off, stop solenoid tested and it's clicking on and off. After this it refused to start again until I flattened the battery!

While its on charge i had a play, the lift pump manual handle seems to 'lock' at the top and bottom positions, I've read somewhere about it being in a specific position stops it from pumping?

Anyway gave it a load of pumping and lo and behold - diesel and air bubbles started spitting out of the injector spill pipe! Looks like its cracked so I'll try and source some new pipe, there's enough pipe but it's that solid stuff and I can't get it back on the union - haven't tried heat or anything but dont want to fracture it any more!

This sound like the cause of my problems? And does anyone know the size of the injector spill pipe back to the injector pump?
 
Sorted it!

Nipped out and replaced the pipe between the injector spill rail and the injector pump and it's quite happy now!

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6JBQUK0x54"]See video[/ame]

Just need to put the thing back together now!
 
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