2002MY TD4 GS 3 door ???

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Paul D

Paul D

Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)
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Hiya all, into Freelander territory we go .. We're currently (Sunday) going to look at a TD4 GS, 3 door, with 138k on the clock, manual gearbox, at a garage, asking about £2k.

Very clean looking, everything seems to be there, but could anyone point out any specifics to this model we need to absolutely check before we drop money on it, please?

I believe these have Timing chains so no worries there, but what can I do on a forecourt, say, to check the IRD / VCU? I've read a coupIe of contradictory threads, one says lift a wheel, another says reverse in a tight circle!!

Anything I specifically need to ask about the vehicle when we call them in the morning? I know both props need to be there, and that so many people take the rear off, but we do need 4x4 for towing a small caravan, often across fields and also towing a trailer, again often across fields! We've checked weights and the 'van and Freelander are about a 50% weight, so should be very good for us!

We'll have a proper test drive or won't even entertain it.

Assuming we buy it, is it worth investing in an OBD reader immediately, if so what's recommended and what's cheap and cheerful please?

Many thanks, I'd appreciate any helpful replies .. ;)
 
Welcome to the Freelsnder zone.

Check my signature for links to useful threads.

Freelanders seem to hold there value well. Be prepared to walk away. There are plenty for sale.
 
check electrics especially windows see if they all work and sunroof for leaking
vcu obviously needs to be in place reverse on full lock without excelerating see if it stalls
water or wet in rear cubby hole where wheel tools are
test drive it thoroughly listen for knocks and clunks
and generally a good all round inspection satisfy yourself
check to see if any warrenty is given and good luck
 
I paid £1700 for a 2002 td4 Gs last September on 107000 miles.

It would have to be perfect to be worth £2000
 
If the clutch bite is near the floor, walk away. Slave cylinders leak on these and the repair is a new clutch in the region of £500.

Rear window regulator - on the rear door. Make sure the window drops and you can open the door. It should raise again when closed. Make sure it drops and raises ok on the button too. It will drop in increments, but when raising will go all the way up even if you stop it part way. Anything else is not right.

IRD / VCU. Reverse on full lock. If it binds a bit that is fine - but if it really struggles and / or stalls, walk away

Front brakes bind due to calipers seizing and guide pins rusting. Check for overly warm wheels after a brisk drive. Easy and cheap to fix if caught before discs are worn.

I've had Defenders, a Series 3, still have a Disco3 (my second) but the FL1 is the most fun LR I've had (this is my second). Learn what makes them tick and they're very rewarding.
 
Make sure there isn't mismatched tyres on it, if there is then there's a chance the VCU or IRD may have suffered damage (must stress MAY not necessarily certain-I got away with mine!)
 
Heard a couple of bad reviews about the garage, like service meant to have been carried out but hasn't been, warning lights on dash etc. Don't know the car but if you make sure you have a thorough test of the vehicle you can decide to either walk or negotiate.
 
glynnp said:
Did you view car?
Click to expand...

No. There's already a discrepancy with the number plate. On their website they say .... oux, but the pics show it's got a plate on as oxu (whatever, can't remember the actual letters) and when asked about it they said No, I must be wrong!! If they can't listen to customers, I can't be bothered to spend my money .. ;)

I know it's probably just a minor mistake, but to us it was glaring and rang alarm bells about other potential errors and mistakes as well as the not listening.
 
A lot has been said about the VCU and its all valid. One trick people play when the IRD goes is to fit a 2WD one that looks like a 4WD unit. So you look under the car and see the VCU and 2 props and all looks OK - but in actual fact there's gears missing in the IRD so there's no drive to the props. The only way you can check for this, I believe, is to raise one of the back wheels and try and turn it. If it turns and the props turn - the IRD is 2WD. If it doesn't turn, make sure you're happy its not the brake binding and the IRD will be 4WD.

If you have a friendly garage and get the car up on a hoist during your 'test drive' the above test will be a bit different. You'll need it in gear (so the front wheels wont turn) and somebody holding the other rear wheel still to see if the props move. It it wasn't in gear when it was raised - then a front wheel should turn when you turn the back wheel (still with the other one held still).

I don't know how common this is, but 2WD units are sold, and mine is like it (to get through its warrant (MOT).

BTW have you considered an L Series diesel? They're a bit more 'agricultural' than the German units - but generally more reliable and economical.
 
GrumpyGel said:
A lot has been said about the VCU and its all valid. One trick people play when the IRD goes is to fit a 2WD one that looks like a 4WD unit. So you look under the car and see the VCU and 2 props and all looks OK - but in actual fact there's gears missing in the IRD so there's no drive to the props. The only way you can check for this, I believe, is to raise one of the back wheels and try and turn it. If it turns and the props turn - the IRD is 2WD. If it doesn't turn, make sure you're happy its not the brake binding and the IRD will be 4WD.

If you have a friendly garage and get the car up on a hoist during your 'test drive' the above test will be a bit different. You'll need it in gear (so the front wheels wont turn) and somebody holding the other rear wheel still to see if the props move. It it wasn't in gear when it was raised - then a front wheel should turn when you turn the back wheel (still with the other one held still).

I don't know how common this is, but 2WD units are sold, and mine is like it (to get through its warrant (MOT).

BTW have you considered an L Series diesel? They're a bit more 'agricultural' than the German units - but generally more reliable and economical.
Click to expand...

Considering all diesels .. whatver's available within maybe 50 miles of us!
 
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