2002 p38 petrol overheating

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underslungload

New Member
Posts
92
Location
GUTERSLOH GERMANY
Hi Guys and girls,

Im going crazy, i was driving and the hot air went cold, icecold. then the engine overheated, but i seen this so switched of straight away, i had 2 new gaskets replaced, a new waterpump, new thermostat. and a new header cap. also a new rad, but 200 miles later it happend again.

but i played with the fan and the engine cooled down straight away why,, then drove another 5 minutes and boom up again. i felt the top hoses and they were solid.

i undid the expansion bottle cap slowley just for the pressure, and the temp gage went straight down since then ive had no hot air,

Im going for a sniff test in the morning.

does anyone have any thoughts,

regards:doh:
 
mmmm, wait till the sniff test comes in but i would be looking at the headgasket and liners. maybe fan/pump or stat if yer lucky!! dont let it o/heat if at all poss!
 
Hi there and welcome to the forum.

:welcome2::tea:

Sounds like there could be an air lock in the cooling system somewhere. Any other thoughts guys?
 
I just paid 2000 euros for new head gaskets not even a month ago the car only did 200 miles since they were replaced. 20 mins after i left the garage it over heated, I went back to the garage who fitted them but they closed for 3 weeks holiday. as for an air lock i/ we have tried everything from engine idle with the fan on till replacing the coolant.
 
i took it to range rover in germany as i work here. The reason im worried is its not so easy here in germany unless you can prove the work they did was faulty, and i have a family here so i need a veh.

regards
 
I left to go to the range rover garage got most of the way there, and up went the temp . I caught it before it went. Into the red. I could here the shop counting the cost already. I'm considering a recon engine as I've spent so much on this but I want to keep my vehicle. Any known places trust worthy of a good cheap engine . Not eBay.
 
hi, again I finlay got to the garage they found gases in the coolent. but told me it could be the gas system that runs the car. i mean the coolent is routed through the gas conversion some how. has anyone ever heard of this

thanks
 
I stupidly swapped my engine for a brand new coscast unit due to intermittent over heat and coolant loss after swapping engine 30miles later same thing happened i then blocked off water pipes to vaporizer and solenoid which turns gas on fault fixed had a new vaporizer fitted car been fine for over a year now. it seems a common problem with prins lpg system.
 
Thanks for the reply it sounds about the same as the engineers told me. are they expensive to buy, the vapouriser, also would you have a web site forbuying one. just a quick one is the vapouriser the big silver circular thing with pipes.

regards

Darren :doh:
 
dont think you mentioned it was lpg, mebbe missed that bit, vap's are about 80 ish quid. its the big circle thing. if you turn off the lpg at the lpg tanks, then run car on lpg, it will obviously cut out. now run it on petrol for a while see if it bubble up!!

just turning the gas off at the switch wont stop the lpg supply as there is still pressure in parts of the sysytem. although it will eventually run it out!!
 
Hi , I think I forgot to say about the gas, when i got the jeep back after having both gaskits done the guy switched of the gas foe me to see, how ever 20 mins later up went the gage. range rover have mentioned about the vapouriser, as it only over pressures the pipe at the top of the red is like a solid pipe, so i slowly turn the cap and releave the pressure and down comes the temp. for about 2 mins

Daz
 
try turning gas off, see if the overheating still occurs. no point going any further till you have ruled out the lpg system causing the problems!
 
I've had this problem too. It was nothing more than an airlock. I drained all the coolant and fiited a new Thermostat at the same time (might as well as it's cheap enough). I then refilled the system as much as possible before starting the engine then start up and continue to top up. Let the temp come up to normal with the top off the bottle and the heater on full. This is the important bit - if the heater temeratures are not set to full then the valves will shut and trap air in the system, then when you turn the heater on there will be air in the system again!. So run the engine at 2000 rpm as recommended by Landrover as this turns the water pump at a speed high enough to push the air round the system, but REMEMBER to have the heater set to "HI" (on both sides). Keep squeezing the top hose at the same time as this also helps push the air back to the bottle. If you do this carefully and don't put the top back on the bottle until the water level stabilizes, then you should solve the problem. As long as there is air in the system you will have a problem. You will know when you've got it right as your heater will work great. Don't forget the Anti-Freeze during top up or you'll be having new head gaskets for a different reason!!
 
not sure there are valves on the heater matrix??? there is on some cars tho so it doesnt hurt to do it with heater on full as a general rule.

ideally these cars should have been fitted with air bleeds at the bulkhead pipes as this would make bleeding a piece of cake.

ive put one on the pipework to the lpg vapouriser, make bleeding very quick and very easy!
 
andystring said:
I've had this problem too. It was nothing more than an airlock. I drained all the coolant and fiited a new Thermostat at the same time (might as well as it's cheap enough). I then refilled the system as much as possible before starting the engine then start up and continue to top up. Let the temp come up to normal with the top off the bottle and the heater on full. This is the important bit - if the heater temeratures are not set to full then the valves will shut and trap air in the system, then when you turn the heater on there will be air in the system again!. So run the engine at 2000 rpm as recommended byLandrover as this turns the water pump at a speed high enough to push the air round the system, but REMEMBER to have the heater set to "HI" (on oth sides). Keep squeezing the top hose at the same time as this also helps push the air back to the bottle. If you do this carefully and don't put the top back on the bottle until the water level stabilizes, then you should solve the problem. As long as there is air in the system you will have a problem. You will know when you've got it right as your heater will work great. Don't forget the Anti-Freeze during top up or you'll be having new head gaskets for a different reason!!
Click to expand...

would this work on a 94 dse ive had a new therm new rad and every time its put under pressure of towing up hill or off roading it overheats and empties water.
 
skippydiddle said:
would this work on a 94 dse ive had a new therm new rad and every time its put under pressure of towing up hill or off roading it overheats and empties water. the fans have had override so work constantly and that did the trick but now they have stopped working.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry for the year delay.

Engine block was cracked. I sent it to THE ENGINE WERE HOUSE LTD LONDON HEATHROW.. STAY AWAY FROM THEM. THEY RIPPED ME OFF 4000 BUCKS. THEY NEVER CALLED ME FOR 6 WEEKS I HAD TO CALL THEM NO WORK DONE. THEN THEY STRIPED MY CAR. ****ERS.. i HAVE A 2.5 DHSE LESS EXPENSIVE.
 
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