2.5 dse completely cutting out every mile or so

So basically I've got a auto 2000 2.5 dse that has had that stupid problem where when the revs are dropped of it comes up with the injector style warning light and loses power for a couple of seconds witch was something I grown to accept knowing it was a more general issue but now the problem has gone from tolerable to Almost undrivable, it'll still start (taking longer I might add) and drive perfectly fine for roughly a mile then it starts to play up losing power sometimes it'll catch on a little bit but you know as soon as it starts playing up its only a matter or seconds until it'll completly cut out, so then I stop leave it a for a min or so then after 10-20 secs of cranking it, it'll burst back into life and its like nothing ever happened untill you drive another mile and the process repeats again, it's deffo got worse after a while as before it would just cut out once at the beginning of a journey and then behave for the rest of the time, I've had a quick look over Ovbsous things like leaks or damaged pipes with no luck but there could be something as equally ovbous I'm not picking up on so any advice would be greatly aprecaited, my car won't start if its left more then 5-6 days in a row so Mybe the battery's causing some electrical problems?
Thanks Danny

Cutting out could be due to a problem with or the wiring to number 4 injector or the maf sensor?? Just a guess but really needs to go on diagnostics.if you put your location there may be a member close to you who can help?
Battery drain could be down to the rf reciever depending on which 1 you have?
Hth

could be a sticky/worn fuel quantity switch/potentiometer on top of the fuel pump or a dodgy stop solenoid at the back of it. Really you need diagnostics on it otherwise you'll have the engine in pieces hunting for the problem.

You can check the quantity switch by revving the engine lightly and quickly. Tap the throttle raising it a couple of hundred rpm and let go quickly, and keep repeating this in quick succession trying to cause it to stall. If the engine cuts out doing this the stop is worn on the switch, although this may not be your underlying problem.

All that said, do look at the No4 injector and cover the basics like blocked fuel filter/in tank pump/leaking fuel from the HP pump/air in the fuel line from the HP pump to the filter housing etc etc

Check the in tank pump is working and the filter is not full of slime. Could be bacterial growth in the tank causing the strainer to block, common problem at this time of year if the tank is not kept full to limit condensation.

can only be in tank pump or filter if befroe all was well.

have you regularly run the tank below 1/4 full?

Bigdane12 said:

Thanks for all the replies, Yh I'm not that Rich so I usually do £20 a time (working full time at primark haha) so it's uasally around quarter, I done some quick checks and saw its a very old looking LR original filter so it maybe that, I have a new one ready so will try that 1st hopefully the old ones the problem but I'm not getting my hope up incase, I live in oxford but was thinking to get some software as I can borrow a obd2 cable but typically the disc it came with has no landy software on it, b

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OBDII will do you no good you can't read anything on the diesel with it.

Thanks for all the replies, Yh I'm not that Rich so I usually do £20 a time (working full time at primark haha) so it's uasally around quarter, I done some quick checks and saw its a very old looking LR original filter so it maybe that, I have a new one ready so will try that 1st hopefully the old ones the problem but I'm not getting my hope up incase, I live in oxford but was thinking to get some software as I can borrow a obd2 cable but typically the disc it came with has no landy software on it, but if somone more local could help I would pay them for there time, checking the tank pump can be done with the filter off right? I'm gonna hafta try it all at the weekend so will get back and share my progress, keep on getting the **** taking out of me for having a problematic range rover but my key response is 'better to have a range rover in the drive then normal car on the road' said so much I might be starting to believe it

Bigdane12 said:

Thanks for all the replies, Yh I'm not that Rich so I usually do £20 a time (working full time at primark haha) so it's uasally around quarter, I done some quick checks and saw its a very old looking LR original filter so it maybe that, I have a new one ready so will try that 1st hopefully the old ones the problem but I'm not getting my hope up incase, I live in oxford but was thinking to get some software as I can borrow a obd2 cable but typically the disc it came with has no landy software on it, b

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As Wammers said, OBD will not help you. Nanocom is the only device that fully covers the P38 systems. I can supply you the cable & software for the EAS.

When you remove the old filters look for traces of black slime, if there is any present you need bactericide additive in the tank.
If you are running with so little fuel in the tank, odds are it's the in tank pump gone.

Ah right cheers for saving me time wammers, so I can't even use that cable plugged into the range rover with the right software?

Datatek: Yh I had heard about LR systems being arkward so your software is EAS so sorry if its ovbous isn't that just EAS problems or also engine fault codes, if so I will deffo want it.
Cheers Danny

Bigdane12 said:

Ah right cheers for saving me time wammers, so I can't even use that cable plugged into the range rover with the right software?

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The only software available is for the EAS.

I am unsure here, but if you your short on cash, maybe run it 3/4 - full all the time and put some fuel aditive in. This may keep you going?

Anyone?