Hi just wondered if anyone else has had overheating issues with their defender 2.4 pumas. Mine is a 2010 DC pick up and has done 56k, I bought it from a dealer 3 months ago. 3 weeks ago the temp gauge suddenly went up and the vehicle went into limp home mode, the temp gauge dropped back down after 30 seconds and everything was again ok. We went out in the landy a couple of days later and started having the same issues, this time though we were getting hot air at the passenger footwelll and cold at the drivers footwell from the heater. Took the vehicle back to the dealer two weeks ago and so far they have changed the radiator, EGR valve, thermostat and water pump, still same problem occurring. They have now removed the head to be sent away to get checked. Has anyone else experienced any similar issues. John.
2.4 puma overheating issues
- Thread starter yorkie 01
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Rob888
New Member
- Posts
- 15
- Location
- Liverpool / North West
I'm currently having issues with fluctuating heat through the heaters - there is an air lock in the system, when opening the expansion tank the fluid shoots back up.
Also, I had the same overheating problem not too long ago when travelling at 75mph - coolant was low, once topped up it was ok.
I had put it down to the water pump but on looking at your description not so sure it will be now!
Also, I had the same overheating problem not too long ago when travelling at 75mph - coolant was low, once topped up it was ok.
I had put it down to the water pump but on looking at your description not so sure it will be now!
Hi, After 3 weeks at the dealers I now have my landy back. They changed the water pump and thermostat, this didnt fix it, then the radiator was changed still same problem, Dealer called landrover who told them to remove the cylinder head and check that, With the head removed all gaskets etc were in excellent condition, no marks etc on the block, head was pressure tested nothing found to be wrong with it. Decision was then made by landrover to fit a new head. Had it back now for coming up to 3 months and touch wood seems ok. Dealer is still baffled as to what it was.
Yorkie01 , just came across your message got a 2011 TDCI and it’s doing exactly the same as your saying - intermittent overheating which lasts all of 30 seconds cools down and goes back to normal , any suggestions
Hi Rossko72 just seen your post. I have had no issues since the head was replaced on the vehicle touch wood. However when it was removed they could find nothing wrong with it so quite baffling really.
Woody down under
New Member
- Posts
- 2
- Location
- Cape Paterson Australia
Battling with a overheating problem currently. Changed all the usual suspects even installed a new allisport tank.
Usual thing was water loss daily even on short runs, and firstly noticed by going out on the overheat limp mode.
Popped the bonnet and evidence of steam venting from header tank Cap.
Despite several attempts by local mechanic and many $ dollars. I finally bit the bullet and stuck me head under the bonnet to resolve
Best I can come up with
Engine runs up to op temp and will sit on idle happily for hours take it out and give it a thrashing it bombs out on limp mode.
Me thinks the thermostat (2) new ones so far, opens to slowly 1.30 seconds by this time temps and pressure gone up blowing over cap then climbing into limp mode.
As soon as I stop whole thing cools down just enough to repeat the cycle.
NB radiator stays cold.
New fix bastardise the thermostat to allow coolant to by pass into rad at all times and live with a cooler engine temp
over.
Usual thing was water loss daily even on short runs, and firstly noticed by going out on the overheat limp mode.
Popped the bonnet and evidence of steam venting from header tank Cap.
Despite several attempts by local mechanic and many $ dollars. I finally bit the bullet and stuck me head under the bonnet to resolve
Best I can come up with
Engine runs up to op temp and will sit on idle happily for hours take it out and give it a thrashing it bombs out on limp mode.
Me thinks the thermostat (2) new ones so far, opens to slowly 1.30 seconds by this time temps and pressure gone up blowing over cap then climbing into limp mode.
As soon as I stop whole thing cools down just enough to repeat the cycle.
NB radiator stays cold.
New fix bastardise the thermostat to allow coolant to by pass into rad at all times and live with a cooler engine temp
over.
- Posts
- 33,493
- Location
- North Shropshire
At what temp is the thermostat starting to open? At what temp does it start to blow coolant?
- Posts
- 33,493
- Location
- North Shropshire
You're better off starting your own new thread with your own problem, especially when this one is over 12 months old!
Woody down under
New Member
- Posts
- 2
- Location
- Cape Paterson Australia
Removed thermostat and did bench test using boiling water st 90C, time to open varied between 1:30 and 55 seconds
Have thermostat and pressure gauge fitted at header tank
Unable to visualise temp as boil over occurs when driving but steam and staining stop my new Allisport header tank are evident.
Static testing engine temp will seat happily at 65C and not by pass to radiator
Reving engine @ 1500 will raise temp to 80C still no by pass to radiator.
Have thermostat and pressure gauge fitted at header tank
Unable to visualise temp as boil over occurs when driving but steam and staining stop my new Allisport header tank are evident.
Static testing engine temp will seat happily at 65C and not by pass to radiator
Reving engine @ 1500 will raise temp to 80C still no by pass to radiator.
