1999 p38 overheating help.

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colsey99p38

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72
I am really at the end of my tether with this car now i love it but it hates me.

i was 150 miles away from home and i pulled into a services on the motorway for some diesel, as i pulled in i lost all power steering and alternator fault appeared, i knew immediately that i had lost a belt.

So 1 reversed 5 meters into a parking space to have a look, and found both of my belts had snapped but i also could see the cause it was a pulley that had disintergrated causing the belts to snap, i was sort of happy with that and got in an AA truck for a long time.

Got the car in to the garage back home £100 in materials to replace all 3 pulleys and 2 belts and £100 in labour i was reletively happy with that.

But as soon as the mechanic started it it overheated, i took it 4 a run and it seemed ok when your foot was down but when idleing it overheats, has anyone come accross a similar problem, the head has already been repaired not 1 year ago by what i assume was a reputable garage, any help and advice would be appreciated.

Sorry for the lenghth of the thread thanks in advance
 
sounds like yer fan int working if its ok while moving. have you got a leccy fan or one of them ..thermocopuled fans..the name escapes me at the moment
 
Its probably the sensor, pull the lead off it, get a crocodile clip bit of wire and a probe, put one end of the crock on the live wire (battery) and the probe in the sensor lead, try each one, you'll know if its ok the fan will come on, if it come on then you sensor is duff
 
well last night i went out and tried checking a few things that i read on this great forum, i was a bit pi**ed off to to find the garage had left all stripped bits of belt stuck in allsorts of pulleys took me an hour to get it allout i will be having words today, anyway i started it and let it idle and no overheat, i took it for a long run it behaved perfectly, could it be air in system from when pump wasnt pumping for a short time?

Could you elaborate as to which sensor and location if i have problem this morn i will check this


thanks again all.
 
i think it is viscous coupled fan and main dealer replaced this only 6 months ago or less

could it go again

cheers
 
cheers for your help, the car seems to have been fine the past couple of days (ie no overheat) but i feel it is running hotter than normal, and has a great deal of pressure when i remove the coolant cap, i have ordered a new cap cause i beleive it is rumoured this could be one of the problems (i hope so).

Do you know if it is possible to change the single stage switch diy or is it an air con specialists job, i have diagnosed mine as faulty as the electric fans never come on, done the paperclip test and they run fine.

cheers
 
You stated that the dealer had recently replaced the viscous fan assy, then you DON'T have electric engine cooling fan!!
The fan/s you have in front of the Rad are the A/C fans, they only come on when the refrigerant in the condenser rad calls for cooling, nothing to do with engine heat.
you may have an air-lock in you system, try running the engine for 10 mins with the rad cap removed, 'blipping' it now & again, this usually pops' out the air.
 
yes thats right modelman it is a viscous fan but i was informed by dealer that the BECM should tell the electric fans to come on in an overheat situation, but they never come on at all even with air-con on for an hour no fans, but i thing the single stage switch on the cannister is faulty i am wondering if i can replace diy or is it an air con experts job.

I am glad you mentioned air cause that is what i thought because when the belts snapped there was a period of time where the water pump would not have worked.

it is behaving great for the past 2 days but i do seem to have a load of pressure when i remove the cap.
 
If your looking at changing any of the switches in the aircon circuit which are connected into the pipework, then it's an aircon engineers job as it involves emptying the system and regassing after the switch has been replaced.
The twin aircon condenser fans are supposed to work as a back up as the engine ECU gets a signal from a secondary temperature sensor (Not the Gauge sender) and then via the Becm and Hevac unit switches the fans on. Alternatively if the refrigerant pressure is too high, due to poor cooling of the gas, then the pressure switche(es) located behind the front bumper, close to the drier, send a signal to the Hevac to switch them on.
This applies to the V8 and is probably similar for the Diesel.:):)
 
cheers irish rover, just spent another hour with it i left it idleing and it didnt overheat, i am told that a quick check for correct operation of the viscous fan is to get it up to temp switch off and it should only spin once or twice, do you or anyone else lookin in know if that is correct? Mine ran for ages. I had this replaced at main dealer about 6 months ago wonder if gauranteed?
 
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